Where to put Door Lamp Switches

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HeywoodFloyd

HeywoodFloyd

Active Member
Posts
273
Location
Essex, UK
Hi all,
I can't be the first person to talk about this on here, but it would seem my searching skills are crap as I've not found any threads on this exact subject...

I've got a 1987 90, and I'm having fun bringing it into the modern day, which this week will include adding door lamp switch and central locking.

The central locking I'm fine with, this is not my first rodeo, however I'm trying to work out where to position some door lamp switches? The usual place is to put them on the inner door frame, in the hinged side. But I'm looking at it and scratching my head - there's not much in the way of contact with the door and the frame when the door is shut, most of which is taken up by the seal.

So, rather than working this out for myself - I'm hoping someone has already worked out the best place, and taken some helpful pictures maybe?

Or, is this entirely not the right approach with lamp switches? Do the modern defenders do something else (I'm assuming this was eventually introduced in modern models?), maybe it's part of the latch mechanism in new ones because of the door design? I hope not, as I'd rather not look at replacing latch mechanisms etc, as I have spare central locking bits and door lamp switches to use.

Cheers in advance.
 
IamRobbie said:
I think most make L shape brackets up that push down the switch when closed.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I was wondering if this was going to end up being something that required a bracket. Hopefully someone has some pictures of what they've done to save me reinventing the wheel.
 
There's a small bracket on the door that presses on the plunger of the door switch. The.door switch pushes in to a hole on the door post and.is held.in place with a self tapping screw. The screw acts as the earth connection. If you don't have holes in your door posts you'll have to drill some. If, like me, you don't want to drill holes you could use a micro-switch. I'll take a few pictures of my set up later if it would be any use for you.
 
My 110 csw just has part number PRC8548 in the A pillar - door closes onto that, and pushes the button in.
 
Al2O3 said:
There's a small bracket on the door that presses on the plunger of the door switch. The.door switch pushes in to a hole on the door post and.is held.in place with a self tapping screw. The screw acts as the earth connection. If you don't have holes in your door posts you'll have to drill some. If, like me, you don't want to drill holes you could use a micro-switch. I'll take a few pictures of my set up later if it would be any use for you.
Click to expand...

Yes please! Thank you!
 
My 1986 that I fitted switches and td5 rubber frangers for central locking and leccy windows.
IMG_20161025_160556421.jpg
 
Use the extra wire on your central locking control box through a courtesy light timer relay and onto the light fitting.
Each time you open the locks hey presto. the interior lights come on for 15 seconds.
 
Bobsticle said:
Use the extra wire on your central locking control box through a courtesy light timer relay and onto the light fitting.
Each time you open the locks hey presto. the interior lights come on for 15 seconds.
Click to expand...

That's a nice extra for sure, and it gives me an idea for something else, but obviously I still need to detect when the door is opened too, for situations where the door was already unlocked, etc.
 
I fitted a timer relay also but not through the cs, it just stays on for 20secs every time any of the 4 doors are opened (110sw).
 
DSC_0005_zpsbjujejl5.jpg

Not sure how good this will look as my phone lens is pretty scratched. Also, its dark now so this is taken with a flash, on my phone.
I didn't want to drill holes in my door posts as I've just finished restoring her and the bulkhead is galvanised. Didnt want to break the galv and give rust a chance. Door posts love to rust. I've got some small, black, electronic boxes to enclose the switch and wires so just the actuator sticks out. This will tidy it up including the wires. Not as neat as Flossies, but for me worth it cos no way was I drilling holes :)
 
Al2O3 said:
DSC_0005_zpsbjujejl5.jpg

Not sure how good this will look as my phone lens is pretty scratched. Also, its dark now so this is taken with a flash, on my phone.
I didn't want to drill holes in my door posts as I've just finished restoring her and the bulkhead is galvanised. Didnt want to break the galv and give rust a chance. Door posts love to rust. I've got some small, black, electronic boxes to enclose the switch and wires so just the actuator sticks out. This will tidy it up including the wires. Not as neat as Flossies, but for me worth it cos no way was I drilling holes :)
Click to expand...

Oh wow, that's a very different approach, and I like it!
 
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