Where do I start?

flat · Mar 7, 2018

UJs are easy to replace at home with a vice and some others bit, there is a guide on here somehow, use only genuine GKN ones though. Even if you get a garage to do them they wont be that much. Your looking at about £15 per UJ and 2 of them per propshaft, so about £60 in parts and a couple hours labour for a garage.

None of those is really that bad, but i would look at where the oild leaks are coming from if possible. Reads as if its just driven and 'left' then problems just sorted at MOT time
you can always take lots of photos of it and put them up here for us to look at?

Is this the first one you are going to see? Try and see another on the same day of possible so you can compare

flat · Mar 7, 2018

Danny Fireblade said:
Do people service them themselves? I know I must have changed the oil on army rovers about a million times (maybe a little exaggeration). I am guessing most things are achievable at home servicing wise?

yes mate, all doable at home if you have space etc, some of the bits are heavy but doable at home.
I do all my own servicing and repairs, there are a couple of 'specialist' tools i brought but otherwise its jsut normal spanners and stuff.
get a haynes manual AND a LR workshop manual, and ask on here.

Danny Fireblade · Mar 7, 2018

I looked at a 90 earlier, just for a bit of experience really, not to buy. Could see where they have put a new rear section of the chassis on, and the rest was pretty rusty. I am guessing surface rust will wire brush off and then can be waxed over the top, or treated some other way? Just the deep, makes holes type of rust that is bad news? lol.

flat · Mar 7, 2018

Danny Fireblade said:
I looked at a 90 earlier, just for a bit of experience really, not to buy. Could see where they have put a new rear section of the chassis on, and the rest was pretty rusty. I am guessing surface rust will wire brush off and then can be waxed over the top, or treated some other way? Just the deep, makes holes type of rust that is bad news? lol.

yeah basically, a bit of surface rust is okay as long as its minor. A good tip is to tap the chassis with something like a small ball pein hammer or side of a spanner - it should sound like it has a ringing/dinging sound - if it sounds flat then its likely rusted badly inside - not a foolproof check but its a handy check.

Dont just look on the flat parts of the chassis, have a look up (or feel) on top of the chassis rails and look at the outriggers particualrly.

pay close attention to the rear cross member and the chassis rails back to the springs as this is the most rot prone area followed closely by the outriggers under the bulkhead and the bulkhead top corners.

flat · Mar 7, 2018

have a look at page 1 and 4 of my Defender thread, some photos of the chassis there. It has some minor surface rust but it all cleaned up fine, and only a tiny area of the cross member needed welding. This is a GOOD/excellent chassis, then google defender chassis rust and look at google images to get an idea of what you CAN find on a dog.....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...p-12v-gs-tul-90-so-a-soft-top-90-then.218221/

lynall · Mar 7, 2018

Danny Fireblade said:
Looking back at previous MOT's, it failed a few times on small things like headlight aim or bulbs, and they had the following advisories:
2018 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Various oil weeps
· Slight play in front propshaft forward UJ
· Slight play in rear propshaft rear UJ
2017 - Advisory notice item(s)
· oil weep from power steering hose at pump
· slight play in nearside front wheeel bearing
2016 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Rear upper shock absorber bushes worn
· Nearside Front axle forward trailing arm bushes worn
· Offside Front forward trailing arm bushes worn (Strong Advise)
· Nearside Front Drag link end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)
· Offside Front Drag link end ball joint has slight play (Strong Advise) (2.2.B.1f)
2015 - No advisories
2014 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Rear Shock absorber has a slightly worn bush (2.7.4)
· play in steering damper bush /grease boot split on drop arm
2013 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Drag link end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)
2012 - No advisories
2011 - No advisories
2010 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Front Shock absorber has a slightly worn bush (2.7.4)
· Rear Shock absorber has a slightly worn bush (2.7.4)
2009 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a)

Anything jumping out as warning signs? Are the UJ's anything to worry about/expensive to fix/replace?

Thanks

Now that says to me total lack of tlc until mot time, it may seem like the mot guy was being finicky but maybe he was presented with a piece if **** so looked extra hard to cover his arse.

I would say you are excited about a new car, but dont be as they are all ****ters even the good ones, so be real real fussy its not like they are in short supply and never will be.
Dont even think of the seller they arent your friend so dont worry/care if you offend them by walking off.
Oh yeh never buy a defender off of a friend!

lynall · Mar 7, 2018

flat said:
UJs are easy to replace at home with a vice and some others bit, there is a guide on here somehow, use only genuine GKN ones though. Even if you get a garage to do them they wont be that much. Your looking at about £15 per UJ and 2 of them per propshaft, so about £60 in parts and a couple hours labour for a garage.

None of those is really that bad, but i would look at where the oild leaks are coming from if possible. Reads as if its just driven and 'left' then problems just sorted at MOT time
you can always take lots of photos of it and put them up here for us to look at?

Is this the first one you are going to see? Try and see another on the same day of possible so you can compare

I would disagree with the they are easy statement especially as you skimmed over the details by saying a few other bits are needed, they can be a right swine and you have to ask yourself if the u/js are worn what condition is the sldier section in? thats whay I always say new prop and grease it a few times per year, easy and just works everytime.

mick the builder · Mar 7, 2018

Do you know how to put it in diff lock and or low box? Make sure they all go in and out .bottoms of doors will probably be blistering on every one you go to see so pick the least. Whatever needs doing to doors will almost always require splitting skin from frame so welding and painting.

Danny Fireblade · Mar 7, 2018

flat said:
yeah basically, a bit of surface rust is okay as long as its minor. A good tip is to tap the chassis with something like a small ball pein hammer or side of a spanner - it should sound like it has a ringing/dinging sound - if it sounds flat then its likely rusted badly inside - not a foolproof check but its a handy check.

Dont just look on the flat parts of the chassis, have a look up (or feel) on top of the chassis rails and look at the outriggers particualrly.

pay close attention to the rear cross member and the chassis rails back to the springs as this is the most rot prone area followed closely by the outriggers under the bulkhead and the bulkhead top corners.

I will bring a hammer with me and get tapping. Rear cross member, chassis rails, outriggers, bulkhead top corners: Any pointers where to find them all? lol.

lynall said:
Now that says to me total lack of tlc until mot time, it may seem like the mot guy was being finicky but maybe he was presented with a piece if **** so looked extra hard to cover his arse.

I would say you are excited about a new car, but dont be as they are all ****ters even the good ones, so be real real fussy its not like they are in short supply and never will be.
Dont even think of the seller they arent your friend so dont worry/care if you offend them by walking off.
Oh yeh never buy a defender off of a friend!

I think the MOT was done just around the corner a few days ago, so I will pop round and see if I can speak with the guy who did it?

mick the builder said:
Do you know how to put it in diff lock and or low box? Make sure they all go in and out .bottoms of doors will probably be blistering on every one you go to see so pick the least. Whatever needs doing to doors will almost always require splitting skin from frame so welding and painting.

Yeah pretty sure I remember about the diff lock and low box, Ill try both on the test drive. Are doors a pain or expensive to replace/repair?

I know this seems weird, but I am looking forward to getting a welder and learning how to weld. May even go on a course or two too.

Marmaduke · Mar 7, 2018

Danny Fireblade said:
I will bring a hammer with me and get tapping. Rear cross member, chassis rails, outriggers, bulkhead top corners: Any pointers where to find them all? lol.

I think the MOT was done just around the corner a few days ago, so I will pop round and see if I can speak with the guy who did it?

Yeah pretty sure I remember about the diff lock and low box, Ill try both on the test drive. Are doors a pain or expensive to replace/repair?

I know this seems weird, but I am looking forward to getting a welder and learning how to weld. May even go on a course or two too.

Have a look at this to give you some idea

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/192475779608

Danny Fireblade · Mar 7, 2018

Marmaduke said:
Have a look at this to give you some idea

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/192475779608

Just brings up the ebay homepage? lol

mick the builder · Mar 7, 2018

Danny Fireblade said:
I will bring a hammer with me and get tapping. Rear cross member, chassis rails, outriggers, bulkhead top corners: Any pointers where to find them all? lol.

I think the MOT was done just around the corner a few days ago, so I will pop round and see if I can speak with the guy who did it?

Yeah pretty sure I remember about the diff lock and low box, Ill try both on the test drive. Are doors a pain or expensive to replace/repair?

I know this seems weird, but I am looking forward to getting a welder and learning how to weld. May even go on a course or two too.

Learning to weld will be the best thing you do in owning a defender. However good it is, it will need welding at some stage. Your first job could well be the door bottoms. Don't get too hung up on it as they all rot there. Also anywhere that steel touches ally, stabiliser struts from chassis to tub is one place.

Marmaduke · Mar 7, 2018

Danny Fireblade said:
Just brings up the ebay homepage? lol

It's cos I'm trying to do it on my phone

copy and paste the number into ebay and it'll bring up a listing for a rusty and rotten 110 chassis

flat · Mar 7, 2018

lynall said:
I would disagree with the they are easy statement especially as you skimmed over the details by saying a few other bits are needed, they can be a right swine and you have to ask yourself if the u/js are worn what condition is the sldier section in? thats whay I always say new prop and grease it a few times per year, easy and just works everytime.

okay, maybe not easy, but until i had my landrover i hadnt replaced a UJ in my life, i didnt find it particularly hard tbh.
Swapping a new prop in would be easier, for sure, probably not much in it cost wise either

Danny Fireblade · Mar 7, 2018

Marmaduke said:
It's cos I'm trying to do it on my phone copy and paste the number into ebay and it'll bring up a listing for a rusty and rotten 110 chassis

Thats great thanks. In some places it looks like surface only, but in others it does look bad.

Marmaduke · Mar 7, 2018

Danny Fireblade said:
Thats great thanks. In some places it looks like surface only, but in others it does look bad.

That's the rust that you can see, if the inside is full of mud it'll rot from the inside out. There's a cross member in front of the rear wheels that has a great mud/rot trap that you can see in one of the ebay pictures and it's a right swine to get a welder to.

Danny Fireblade · Mar 7, 2018

I have found out a bit more about it. It looks as if it was the company vehicle for bare box?

flat · Mar 7, 2018

Doesnt necessarily mean it was treated with care, could have been a pool vehicle etc.

Have a look but examine it very carefully before you decide what to do

Danny Fireblade · Mar 7, 2018

I will thanks. Well as best as my limited brain can handle.

I think I will bring a torch, hammer, and make sure I take lots of pics too, that way I can get a second opinion from you guys.

Danny Fireblade · Mar 8, 2018

I have been to see and drive it and have the following to report.

Pro’s

Looks a fairly honest 110. Few knocks here and there, nice and clean inside, chassis and bulkhead looks strong and corrosion free, 2 former keepers before this one, who has had it for 8 years. Folder full of receipts, plenty of security, most of the stuff I would do has already been done and it drives well.

Cons

Bottom sill of drivers door pretty flakey and gone, passenger is a bit better but still rusty. Rear is fine though. Few weeps from engine, such as rocker cover and looks like a weep from power steering pipe. Might just need tightening?
Engine block does not have an engine number on it. It has not been ground away as no tooling marks, just looks like it’s never had one on it? Chassis numbers match under engine and on chassis with V5.
Few bubbles of rust here and there, which is to be expected I am sure.
Looks like needs seals on gearbox and transfer box, possibly rear diff too.

I think that’s about it. I’ll try and add loads of pics so if anyone spots anything then please say.

Price is £7250.

Thanks guys.

Where do I start?

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