Wheel stud replacement

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Jimmie127

New Member
Posts
8
Location
Glasgow,Scotland
I'm being driven insane every time I remove a wheel a stud shears. Garages are the problem along with airgun impact wrenches that don't have torque settings. The front ones are a bit of a problem but the rear are a disaster as you need to remove the whole hub complete with bearings. Try and buy just the nut nope the whole kit and they keep sending a 52mm nut and it's a 32mm on the Freelander, not to mention the 295 Ft/Lb. of torque to get the damn thing off. BTW I'm 68yo and weigh next to nothing LOL so it's a bit of fun getting the nut undone (I haven't managed it yet) is the r/h/r nut a right or left thread? I don't know there isn't enough showing to tell, HELP!!!
 
On my Rangie the torque is stated as only 86ftlbs. I weigh twice that (at least) and I find standing on the brace works a treat to both do up and undo.
 
On my Rangie the torque is stated as only 86ftlbs. I weigh twice that (at least) and I find standing on the brace works a treat to both do up and undo.

I think the OP was explaining how difficult it is to shift the hub nut when it's torqued to 300Ftlb (400Nm).;)

Most LRs use 115Nm as the wheel nut torque figure, which is around 85Ftlb iirc.
 
I think the OP was explaining how difficult it is to shift the hub nut when it's torqued to 300Ftlb (400Nm).;)

Most LRs use 115Nm as the wheel nut torque figure, which is around 85Ftlb iirc.
Ahhhhhh... well, mmmm, I would slip a 2-foot sleeve over the socket-bar and stand at the end of that then. 210# me x 2ft....sorted ;)
 
Ahhhhhh... well, mmmm, I would slip a 2-foot sleeve over the socket-bar and stand at the end of that then. 210# me x 2ft....sorted ;)
I do the same, when shifting hub nuts, which can be really stubborn. I'm 190lb and have had to bounce on a 5ft length of scaffold slid over my breaker bar to release a FL1 hub nuts before now.
Sometimes, for some reason they can be stupidly tight, and other times not tight at all.
 
Last edited:
Probably get shot for saying this,
But if you cut 5mm off the new stud, you can wrangle it through without removing the hub.
Mike
I guess it's no worse than having a 5mm spacer and lots do.
As for the hub nut, I've bent a 3/4" breaker bar getting one off by putting a scaffold pole over it. :eek:
 
They are 300lb ft and are stupid I have a extending 1inch square bar and have to stand on or get my son in law to stand on it I also have a 300lb torque wrench but that is all at home mean while I am in Ireland with the hose that goes onto the turbo come off but it is going into a garage latter to be done.
 
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