Wheel resistance

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boguing said:
With the transfer box in 2wd, what happens when you rotate the front pshaft? If there's a problem with the diff it might give a clue. The expected result would be the n/s hub rotating and no noise or graunchiness, but that won't fully rule out the diff.

I think you're going to have to strip the o/s hub off the axle to pin it down.

I don't have any explanation as to why loosening the n/s wheel nuts made any difference, unless the wheel itself was fouling something.

The hub nuts being loose is interesting but not unusual if they weren't tightened properly. If the same person worked on other bits it might explain what you're soon to discover!

I can't help with the oil leaks. Looks like transfer box which might been have been damaged enough to strain a joint. Whether that caused what's happening in the front axle or vice versa is still a mystery. (To me anyway).
Click to expand...
In 2wd I can easily spin the front prop by hand but neither front hub rotates and there’s no real noise or ‘grouchines’.
 
NTB said:
In 2wd I can easily spin the front prop by hand but neither front hub rotates and there’s no real noise or ‘grouchines’.
Click to expand...
If I engage the fwh’s but still leave the transfer box in 2wd and rotate the front prop only the nearside hub rotates. Again no noise or grouchiness
 
NTB said:
If I engage the fwh’s but still leave the transfer box in 2wd and rotate the front prop only the nearside hub rotates. Again no noise or grouchiness
Click to expand...
If I engage 4wd with yellow lever down and manually turn the front prop, the front offside hub still doesn’t turn but the rear prop and both rear wheels do however every few rotations I seem to get slight resistance on the rear nearside wheel as it gets tougher to spin.

Should the steering not rotate relatively freely as well. It feels as if that’s virtually seized now.
 
NTB said:
If I engage the fwh’s but still leave the transfer box in 2wd and rotate the front prop only the nearside hub rotates. Again no noise or grouchiness
Click to expand...
Yes, I should have said with the fwhs engaged. That shows that some of the diff is working properly but doesn't rule out a duff bearing on the offside.
 
NTB said:
If I engage 4wd with yellow lever down and manually turn the front prop, the front offside hub still doesn’t turn but the rear prop and both rear wheels do however every few rotations I seem to get slight resistance on the rear nearside wheel as it gets tougher to spin.

Should the steering not rotate relatively freely as well. It feels as if that’s virtually seized now.
Click to expand...
Possibly a binding brake there?

You mean the steering wheel is hard to turn with the wheels off the ground?

If it is then I'm starting to think that there must be obvious damage to the steering rods and axle tube.
 
Time to strip the front OS hub I recon. FWH has to come off first, get some release fluid on that screw in the side of the hub to start.
 
Recently my front wheel was binding, when jacked up with wheel nuts loose it freed off the wheel,after much head scratching it was the drum pushing the shoe onto the newly fitted brake adjusters and you could see the marks on shoe.

for steering you could try and loosen off steering box a turn see if it frees up, top up oil in box easy job

i Guess you have not checked any oil levels yet so would drain front diff and see how much was in there and if any bits come out.

no experience with fw hubs but could the offside one be duff , I would remove that and then see if it turns easily before stripping down further.

put some paper down on that oil spill clean up gearbox and see if you can see where it’s coming from
I would also drain gearbox and transfer box measuring how many litres in both and checking for bits.
 
NTB said:
If I engage the fwh’s but still leave the transfer box in 2wd and rotate the front prop only the nearside hub rotates. Again no noise or grouchiness
Click to expand...

the way the diff works if driving on mud say it will only turn the wheel with least resistance which is what you found
 
Some furthe checks here but just need the front wheel off ground

www.landyzone.co.uk

Free wheeling hub problems

Hi, Just got a 1981 series 3 land rover. Snow started other day so I thought great, Ill get landy out. Engaged free wheeling hubs, into 4wd and went off. Got all way up farm tracks in a foot of snow fine but on way back got stuck going up a hill, hardly any snow. I looked out and only the back...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
steve2286w said:
Some furthe checks here but just need the front wheel off ground

www.landyzone.co.uk

Free wheeling hub problems

Hi, Just got a 1981 series 3 land rover. Snow started other day so I thought great, Ill get landy out. Engaged free wheeling hubs, into 4wd and went off. Got all way up farm tracks in a foot of snow fine but on way back got stuck going up a hill, hardly any snow. I looked out and only the back...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...
Cheers, more work required tomorrow then!! think I need to get some gearbox oil and seals and drain down as you say. Thanks again
 
NTB said:
Cheers, more work required tomorrow then!! think I need to get some gearbox oil and seals and drain down as you say. Thanks again
Click to expand...
So today, eventually got the FWH off (after slipping with a spanner hitting myself in the face resulting in a nosebleed)!!!

The hub still really struggles to turn manually however the stub axle (I think it’s called) does seem to turn quite smoothly by hand, it will also pull out and in by about an inch…is that normal? I can’t go any further at this point as haven’t got a socket big enough to go over the damn nut (believe it’s 2”). The outer one was only finger tight and held by the washer but that inner one I can’t budge at the moment.
 

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It does look like hub bearing is the issue. In/out movement of shaft is normal now not bolted to drive flange.
Any oil come out? No dribbles to be seen in pic.
Any oil in diff? I ask as it feeds to the hubs [ some grease should be put on bearings when reassembled]
Cold chisel can be used to free nut if you do not mind some damage or a cheap basic box spanner on the ebay. 52mm or 2inch
 
Yes, oil came out when I removed the retaining screw on the fwh’s. There is also oil in the front diff when I checked. I did wonder how the oil in the fwh was replaced. I’m seeing if anyone local has the box spanner and if not I’ll go with the eBay cheapo and see what happens from there. Many thanks
 
Ah. Yes. I suspect you're going to find some wrecked bearings and that it all got very hot indeed. Distortion of those bits may have jammed the nut way tighter than normal.
 
That inner bug nut tightens up the tapered wheel bearing, what I do is nip up then back off maybe 1 or two flats , its ok to use a small chisel around the circumference it can be reused and they’re only cheap just add to next parts order.

but that’s great news relatively …. better than broken halfshaft or diff
 
So guys, just wanted to say thanks. It was the wheel bearings, the front offside was completely mangled. Eventually got them out and replaced them with Timken. Everything seemed fine going back together until I put the nearside wheel on and as soon as I tighten the wheel nuts the hub starts binding so the wheel won’t rotate manually. I’ve had it off and on multiple times and can’t see any issues with the location of the pads and when the hub goes over it still spins relatively freely until I put the wheel on and tighten the nuts!!!! Am I being thick and missing something??
 
I’ve had this , mentioned earlier , 2 things to check .

Width of shoes with manual as they sometimes made too wide and jam when drum on( se recent thread)
Brake adjuster screw can touch and bind into brake shoe web when wheel nipped up check see if marks on shoe I needed to add washer to brake adjuster on outside of brake back plate
 
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