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Wheel Nuts!
- Thread starter metallicachick86
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jackstringer
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According to my D2 manual (6th Edition) its Wheel nuts 140 Nm (103 lbf.ft)
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But Gillm has a Disco1....
jackstringer
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I had posted my settings earlier in the thread but then once you quoted a manual I thought I better quote my source to be on the saferside. I failed to note he wanted D1 settings. My Bad.
It doesn't make a blind bit of difference!
TORQUE is of NO RELEVANCE! Torque does NOT hold wheels on.
TENSION of the wheel studs holds wheels on.
Tension is achieved by tightening the wheelnuts, but the easier the nut can turn on the stud (or bolt) so the more tension will be created for any given torque.
Moral - Always use copper-grease on wheel-studs, and tighten to a medium grunt with a two foot bar.
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pity Landrover dont seem to agree, CharlesY.
maybe you aught to tell em they got it all wrong?
maybe you aught to tell em they got it all wrong?
I hear you loud and clear, but as we both know, they DO know best.
Of course they do. BUT, they also know that the BEST ways of doing things may require a degree of mechanical aptitude that lots of so-called vehicle technicians do not have, and in the case of wheel-nuts, the worst case situation is that ordinary drivers will be involved.
So they tell drivers in handbooks how to change a wheel, and they even specify the correct torque setting for the wheel-nuts. No kidding? How many drivers carry a torque wrench in their cars? Not many. Now what?
Sadly though, they have to set out procedures that should work, even if done by people who have no idea what they are doing.
"Do it by the book" and you should be OK, even if you don't have a clue.
An experienced FEEL and a medium grunt is the way to go.
The girls will tell you that is so.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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Always grease up wheel nuts, you don't want the friction on the wheel nuts affecting how tight you can get them.
A nicely greased nut can easily be tightened by feel, a horrible corroded flaky one might be difficult to torque up smoothly.
AFAIK any torque setting is for a LUBRICATED thread, and the same applies even more for dirty wheel nuts.
Ok torque settings would apply when new, but when theyre all used and mucky it's not going to suit if the nuts get real tight on some corrosion, that clicks your torque wrench but in reality the tension on the studs isn't that high.
Clean and greased: wheelnut perfection
Not often I agree with CharlesY!
A nicely greased nut can easily be tightened by feel, a horrible corroded flaky one might be difficult to torque up smoothly.
AFAIK any torque setting is for a LUBRICATED thread, and the same applies even more for dirty wheel nuts.
Ok torque settings would apply when new, but when theyre all used and mucky it's not going to suit if the nuts get real tight on some corrosion, that clicks your torque wrench but in reality the tension on the studs isn't that high.
Clean and greased: wheelnut perfection
Not often I agree with CharlesY!
Last edited:
waldershelf
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It may not be so important on wheel nuts but if you try rebuilding an engine especially a modern one with aluminium crankcases and heads etc without using a torque wrench you will cock it up and get problems, I don't care how experienced you are with a medium grunt.
Clean and greased: wheelnut perfection
Not often I agree with CharlesY!
All I would add is that that greased wheelnuts also keep water out of the threads, so they tend not to rust up and get stuck.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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I'm only 24 but even I know that back in the day everything used to get oiled or greased.
In this 'clean' environment we live in these days, lots more things get assembled and operate dry. Take cartridge bearings for instance. 200,000 mile maintenance free and no mess either!
Sometimes I think people forget that not EVERYTHING is new skool
In this 'clean' environment we live in these days, lots more things get assembled and operate dry. Take cartridge bearings for instance. 200,000 mile maintenance free and no mess either!
Sometimes I think people forget that not EVERYTHING is new skool
I'm only 24 but even I know that back in the day everything used to get oiled or greased.
In this 'clean' environment we live in these days, lots more things get assembled and operate dry. Take cartridge bearings for instance. 200,000 mile maintenance free and no mess either!
Sometimes I think people forget that not EVERYTHING is new skool
TD5 unit front wheelbearing. Lasted 92K miles, £193 to replace.
If it could have been done with two taper roller bearings, like the good old days, twenty quid and a dollop of yellow grease.
Now I wait for the other one to go.
It's called progress.
sidewaysste
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Why is it when you're watching a technical argument it's a good source of amusement, but when you're involved it's life or death?
Personally I think there are pros and cons to lubricating wheel nuts. It will prevent thread galling, but it will attract dirt and grit, it will allow smooth tightening but may allow over-tightening if the stated figure is for a dry thread, and so on... A torque setting for a stud, be it a wheel stud or a wing mirror mounting is a calculated method of applying a set tension within a tolerance band within a given set of circumstances. Outside of those circumstances, torquing will not achieve the correct tension ( on a rusty thread for example) so it IS tension that holds a bolted assembly, however torquing a bolt is a method of approximating that tension. I'd never not torque a wheel nut up but I'd also make sure the thread is clean and free from anything likely to cause premature binding on the thread. My experience allows me to feel when a nut is tightening up prematurely and reaching the prescribed torque before correct tension is achieved. If you wanted to tighten wheel nuts perfectly you would measure the stud stretch but that is overkill. I'd use an airgun to run the nuts up but NOT for final tightening, I'm used to my airgun so know how much trigger will run the nut up to just loose enough for the torque wrench to tighten it that last 10%
I'm not a fan of greasing mounting faces, that can lead to wheels falling off. Why? because it creates a viscous fluid layer between the wheel and the flange that supports the wheel initially but then dissipates under working heat and means the tension on the mounting studs is reduced - the wheel nuts can then loosen off and the next step is that the wheel comes off. The same applies to the nut mating surfaces on the taper. The same princicple applies for painted wheels as new paint is in effect an extremely viscous fluid. Note that the hub mounting face is not the spigot flange.
As an aside, I always thought copper grease was a bunch of £5 notes handed over with your licence when you get pulled over....
Personally I think there are pros and cons to lubricating wheel nuts. It will prevent thread galling, but it will attract dirt and grit, it will allow smooth tightening but may allow over-tightening if the stated figure is for a dry thread, and so on... A torque setting for a stud, be it a wheel stud or a wing mirror mounting is a calculated method of applying a set tension within a tolerance band within a given set of circumstances. Outside of those circumstances, torquing will not achieve the correct tension ( on a rusty thread for example) so it IS tension that holds a bolted assembly, however torquing a bolt is a method of approximating that tension. I'd never not torque a wheel nut up but I'd also make sure the thread is clean and free from anything likely to cause premature binding on the thread. My experience allows me to feel when a nut is tightening up prematurely and reaching the prescribed torque before correct tension is achieved. If you wanted to tighten wheel nuts perfectly you would measure the stud stretch but that is overkill. I'd use an airgun to run the nuts up but NOT for final tightening, I'm used to my airgun so know how much trigger will run the nut up to just loose enough for the torque wrench to tighten it that last 10%
I'm not a fan of greasing mounting faces, that can lead to wheels falling off. Why? because it creates a viscous fluid layer between the wheel and the flange that supports the wheel initially but then dissipates under working heat and means the tension on the mounting studs is reduced - the wheel nuts can then loosen off and the next step is that the wheel comes off. The same applies to the nut mating surfaces on the taper. The same princicple applies for painted wheels as new paint is in effect an extremely viscous fluid. Note that the hub mounting face is not the spigot flange.
As an aside, I always thought copper grease was a bunch of £5 notes handed over with your licence when you get pulled over....
mark-d
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Always grease up wheel nuts, you don't want the friction on the wheel nuts affecting how tight you can get them.
A nicely greased nut can easily be tightened by feel, a horrible corroded flaky one might be difficult to torque up smoothly.
AFAIK any torque setting is for a LUBRICATED thread, and the same applies even more for dirty wheel nuts.
Ok torque settings would apply when new, but when theyre all used and mucky it's not going to suit if the nuts get real tight on some corrosion, that clicks your torque wrench but in reality the tension on the studs isn't that high.
Clean and greased: wheelnut perfection
Not often I agree with CharlesY!
Many things i work with give a torque setting for a greased bolt/stud/nut or ungreased, normally if its greased the figure would be less.
If the nut is so bad the the torque wrench clicks at 95lbf before its tight i think you need new ones or a least to clean the thread
The V8 man
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I had a problem with my wheel nuts aswell, the shiny chrome caps are part of the wheel nut and dont come off , mine had slightly swollen and i couldnt get a socket to fit eventually had to to destroy the chorme bit by hacking it off to reveal the nut underneath so then managed to get a socket on that, then found some replacements that werent swollen and all was ok
jamesmartin
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often 28mm socket i find fits better on those type of nuts
