blackvulcan100
Active Member
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There are no "shiny caps" those is the wheel nuts !!
Wheel Nuts!
- Thread starter metallicachick86
- Start date
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GreenHornet
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Well everyone seems reluctant to give any ground on their opinions......
For my 2p worth.
Initially undo and finally tighten with a manual tool and not an impact gun. You will then always be able to get the wheel off when out and about, after all I have never had a puncture in my driveway next to my garage with an air line handy.
With regards to grease etc. if you use the vehicle off road then it would make sense to have a small amount of copper slip or other grease/oil on the threads. This way I feel that if the wheel is changed in the field so to speak, then any water etc will not be attacking the threads and rust the nut on.
I have always used grease on wheel nuts and I have never lost a wheel etc so chill and stop worrying, life's too short.
For my 2p worth.
Initially undo and finally tighten with a manual tool and not an impact gun. You will then always be able to get the wheel off when out and about, after all I have never had a puncture in my driveway next to my garage with an air line handy.
With regards to grease etc. if you use the vehicle off road then it would make sense to have a small amount of copper slip or other grease/oil on the threads. This way I feel that if the wheel is changed in the field so to speak, then any water etc will not be attacking the threads and rust the nut on.
I have always used grease on wheel nuts and I have never lost a wheel etc so chill and stop worrying, life's too short.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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Ian, had you noticed this thread is over 2 years old? 
jackstringer
Active Member
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"Torque wrenches are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men"
Discuss. ;-)
Discuss. ;-)
Correct.
TORQUE itself is always irrelevant except as a means to induce TENSION on a bolt or stud. TENSION holds wheels on, not torque.
Applying lube to threads enables the device to achive the right tension for a lot less torque, or a lot more tension for the right torque.
For example, plain old copper grease will mean you can get the same tension using only about three-quarters of the torque on dry steel, whereas using a molybdenum di-sulphide assembly paste may DOUBLE the tension for the same torque. Common sense must be used.
It is a fact that properly tightened wheel nuts/bolts that were lubed before tightening, are LESS likely to come loose than most nuts/studs run up dry.
jackstringer
Active Member
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Minor grunt is my norm setting.
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blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
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Unless yer over 45 in which case ''Minor Grunt Followed By Sharp Intake Of Breath" is wot it says in the manual
jackstringer
Active Member
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- Mendip Hills, Somerset
TBH I only use the TW on stuff like engine bolts and sump bolts. Other than that most of it is done by feel. I have lots of jap crap motorbikes so I have to be rather careful as most of the previous owners have stripped most of the threads. If I am worried about them coming loose I drill and lockwire them.
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95 ftlbs
thats about 10nm so i doubt that
jackstringer
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A engineer friend has his own guide to torque settings it goes from 1 finger to following through. I will try and find it if I can. IIRC he even stated some of the bolts/parts that require these.
waldershelf
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Whether you lube the threads or not is a mute point, I don't know of any manufacturer that recommends lubing, but of course I don't know every manufacturer. It's standard practice at the Porsche specialist that I work for occasionally to copperslip the spigots and threads although its not an official Porsche recommendation.
What I do know and this applies especially to landrover products fitted with alloy wheels is you must torque them correctly and then after a decent run torque them again or you could end up losing a wheel.
I serviced a guys disco 1 and a few days later he came back with an odd noise that turned out to be loose wheel nuts, I was accused of not tightening the wheel nuts correctly, I new I had.
A couple of weeks later he had a new set of tyres fitted, making sure the tyre fitter torqued them up correctly. A couple of days later the "noise" returned, sure enough the wheels nuts needed tightening again, checking them a couple of times over the next few weeks proved they were still tight.
I'm not quite sure why this happens but I have the same issue with my defender on alloy wheels but curiously not with the steels?
What I do know and this applies especially to landrover products fitted with alloy wheels is you must torque them correctly and then after a decent run torque them again or you could end up losing a wheel.
I serviced a guys disco 1 and a few days later he came back with an odd noise that turned out to be loose wheel nuts, I was accused of not tightening the wheel nuts correctly, I new I had.
A couple of weeks later he had a new set of tyres fitted, making sure the tyre fitter torqued them up correctly. A couple of days later the "noise" returned, sure enough the wheels nuts needed tightening again, checking them a couple of times over the next few weeks proved they were still tight.
I'm not quite sure why this happens but I have the same issue with my defender on alloy wheels but curiously not with the steels?
jackstringer
Active Member
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- Mendip Hills, Somerset
Wheel nuts 140 Nm (103 lbf.ft)
Cripes, no wonder your wheels fall off!
95 foot-pounds of torque is just under 130 Newton Metres
waldershelf
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95 foot pounds is 128.8 newton meters
Torque Conversion English to Metric - Printable Chart - TheToolHut.com
jackstringer
Active Member
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- Mendip Hills, Somerset
I had a discussion on a motorbiking list were we talked about torque settings and one of the things that came out of it was that after a while bolts stretch and so manufactures settings will not always be the best idea. As they do it on the assumption on fresh nuts and bolts. Often the reason for the lack of copper slip is that firms don't want to spend the .005p it would add to each bolt put on a vehicle.
