What to treat chassis cavity with?

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tomhop

tomhop

Active Member
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320
Location
Scotland Angus
I am just finishing painting up my chassis, it is the original chassis from my 1982 series 3 it was in very good condition to start with i only had to weld on one new outrigger and even then it was only a small hole, i then got the hole lot shot blasted and galvanized. i then thoroughly degreased the chassis and steam cleaned it inside and out. I then let it dry for a couple of days (it was very hot) then painted with mordant solution washed it off again left it for 2 days painted with etch primer and then Frost's extreme chassis black.

Before i go rebuilding it i wondered if now would be a good time to treat the internal cavity as i will have great access but what should i treat it with? i looked at Dinitrol but it seems like it just prevents moisture from contacting the metal, what if there is already rust in there that will be trapped underneath and make the hole exercise pointless?? what do others do or recommend?
 
I'd ring one of the technical help desks at either Bilt Hamber or Dinitrol or A.N. Other ( your call ;) ), and ask them the question....

Personally I use bilt hamber stuff - but I am sure that dinitrol is equally good, and I have always found their technical folk very good indeed - more so on something interesting like your rebuild.... :)
 
Disco1BFG said:
I'd ring one of the technical help desks at either Bilt Hamber or Dinitrol or A.N. Other ( your call ;) ), and ask them the question....

Personally I use bilt hamber stuff - but I am sure that dinitrol is equally good, and I have always found their technical folk very good indeed - more so on something interesting like your rebuild.... :)
Click to expand...

Thanks Disco1BFG it seems to have been going on for an age but the rebuild is definitely more exciting than the tear down, every nut, bolt and bearing has come off and where possible replaced with original or as good as i can afford, fingers crossed i can keep the momentum up however i have my first baby due in two weeks so i feel it may slow down on the rebuild front!

here is a picture of the painted chassis its still drying should be a nice satin finish when dry.
IMG_0098.JPG
 
Is it an Australian chassis - looks like it is a bit disorientated...

...how do you like the Frost product?
 
Seems pretty good, i tried scathing it with my finger nail after the first coat and it didn't really seem to mark it (wasn't brave enough to try with any thing harder!) but i did use 5 and a half of their large aerosol cans to give the side and under side of the chassis 2 coats. i have had to order some more for the top of the chassis (that's why its upside down :p) thought if i left it upside down to start with and give it its 2 coats i would only have to turn the chassis over once!

Thinking ahead for once :oops:.

I was a bit worried about using their aerosol paint over the etch primer as it said on the back of the can it might not work but that is what they recommend on their video on the website so i will be disappointed if it doesn't give a good finish.
 
ordered 4 liters of Dinitrol ML rust proofing cavity wax with a Schutz spray gun so hopefully that will stop any rust in the chassis and prevent any new rust from forming. Does anyone know if that will be enough for a 88 inch chassis?
 
tomhop said:
Seems pretty good, i tried scathing it with my finger nail after the first coat and it didn't really seem to mark it (wasn't brave enough to try with any thing harder!) but i did use 5 and a half of their large aerosol cans to give the side and under side of the chassis 2 coats. i have had to order some more for the top of the chassis (that's why its upside down :p) thought if i left it upside down to start with and give it its 2 coats i would only have to turn the chassis over once!

Thinking ahead for once :oops:.

I was a bit worried about using their aerosol paint over the etch primer as it said on the back of the can it might not work but that is what they recommend on their video on the website so i will be disappointed if it doesn't give a good finish.
Click to expand...
I've been using Eastwood's extreme chassis black and the other lesser chassis black and have found it to be nice stuff. It isn't as tough as I would like - well may be it will be OK after it has had a chance to harden. If it doesn't work out I was planning to be going back to the POR15 top coat (what ever that is called) but may be, I'll give the frosts version a go now.
 
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