What to pay for this,

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Hambo44

Member
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36
Location
Bath(ish)
Hi all,

I am interested in this: Its a TD5 from 2001 with 150K on the clock. FSH. Any guide as to value? There is no other rust than what is pictured. Mechanically seemed solid

I hope this is the right place and the right link!

Defender album| Photobucket

Thanks SO much!
 
Not sure on a price however:

>Rear cross member would have issues come MOT I would think (mine didn't have holes all the way through and it failed).

>There's not photos of the bulkhead. I'd check that it seems solid - above and below bonnet plus down the pillers.

>Go through the chassis checking for rot. If there's any newly painted bits, pay special attention there (pretty sure that's what's happened with rear cross member)
 
As above. that cross member repair looks a bit bobbins in the photo - not sure that "welding" has any penetration. ( but also remember I have only seen 1 photo! )

And definitely have a VERY close look at the bulkhead!!

In my book, condition is more important than number of miles, and from the photo's, that looks a bit tatty, and its really hard to tell if its just surface stuff that would clean up easily,, or if could be more serious...

price wise? no idea. but low end of that years average value. maybe.
 
Cheers guys,

The bulkhead seemed solid. I had a really good poke about all along the chassis, no patches no deep rust. A bit of surface but nothing terrible.

Jonathan.
 
Hambo44 said:
Cheers guys,

The bulkhead seemed solid. I had a really good poke about all along the chassis, no patches no deep rust. A bit of surface but nothing terrible.

Jonathan.
Click to expand...

What's going on on the rear cross member then? is that impact damage ? or has some sort of aftermarket "doohicky" been removed ??
 
It's high mileage, tatty and needs doing up, plus l'd say a new rear crossmember. £6995? I paid £13,750 for my 2005 TD5 110 CSW with 56,000 miles but it's pristine.
 
You will, but prices are high at the moment. If it's cheap you could do it up, as long as it runs OK.

I'd say £2,000 to bring that one back including Waxoyl (or similar) to the chassis, fixing minor bodywork oxidisation, and the new crossmember. If you could get it for £6,000 then it could be a good buy. Much more than that would see a total outlay knocking on the door of £10,000 and for that l think you could do better.
 
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New cross member and, in my limited experience, the RH rear chassis arm will be mullered, possibly back to the shock mount. My cross member had one or two small holes in the area that shows many on your pics.
 
To be fair almost all Defenders have an issue of some sort, I bought my 2005 double cab last October for 15k, 98 thousand miles on it in good shape, spent another 10k going through it to take to Morocco which it performed faultlessly, now I am going to have a galvanised chassis and 4 galvanised doors fitted and all new bushes as they got a battering.

My current chassis is immaculate with exception of some flake right at the tips of the rear cross member inside, so before it get worse I'll get it swapped, my doors are starting to go at the bottom channel sections, so instead of trying to fight the rust new galvanised doors seem the way to go, but I will be in to this 110 for £29k, and I know it will need other things in the future, as that's the nature of Land Rover products, oh yeah, I'm having a recon 1.2 transfer box fitted in two weeks, there goes another £500 to add, shhhhhhhh, if my wife asks, Defenders are really reliable and trouble free!

Irony is, I hardly use it, maybe once a week, except for going to Morocco in April.

Buy a cheap one, buy an expensive one, either way they constantly beg for cash like a teenager. No such thing as a cheap Defender any more lol.
 
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Why change the chassis if it's "immaculate"? Just clean the surface rust from the rear crossmember, and get the whole chassis wax treated inside and out.
Then it will last twenty years before you need to fit that new chassis? Seems a waste to change it when there's nothing wrong.
The doors though, yes l'd swap 'em if they have started to go. As new doors are not that expensive.
 
MrNasty said:
To be fair almost all Defenders have an issue of some sort, I bought my 2005 double cab last October for 15k, 98 thousand miles on it in good shape, spent another 10k going through it to take to Morocco which it performed faultlessly, now I am going to have a galvanised chassis and 4 galvanised doors fitted and all new bushes as they got a battering.

My current chassis is immaculate with exception of some flake right at the tips of the rear cross member inside, so before it get worse I'll get it swapped, my doors are starting to go at the bottom channel sections, so instead of trying to fight the rust new galvanised doors seem the way to go, but I will be in to this 110 for £29k, and I know it will need other things in the future, as that's the nature of Land Rover products, oh yeah, I'm having a recon 1.2 transfer box fitted in two weeks, there goes another £500 to add, shhhhhhhh, if my wife asks, Defenders are really reliable and trouble free!

Irony is, I hardly use it, maybe once a week, except for going to Morocco in April.

Buy a cheap one, buy an expensive one, either way they constantly beg for cash like a teenager. No such thing as a cheap Defender any more lol.
Click to expand...
Don't worry folks when it's all done I'm gonna nick it.. ;)
 
I'm an anal, want the galvanised chassis painted in POR15 also, I had the chassis steamed cleaned a few weeks ago to get rid of the dust and ****e from the desert, then it was sprayed with rubberised paint, then with black satin, the innards were sprayed with cavity wax as well as the bulkhead and B pillars. Just feel it deserves a galvanised Richards chassis, plus its an excuse to replace the bushes again.

Another possibility is to have the galv chassis delivered to my local powder coaters, have them bake the chassis first to remove any trapped gas in the coating and get it powder coated, downsides are the P/C fills holes so they have to be drilled and P/C, problem is it's not that impact resistant and eventually cracks, oh I need / want a tdci interior too. I think I have a mental illness to be honest, I've done all this **** before to many previous cars just to then sell them on cheaply as I get bored with them.:)
 
Wow! With all due respect, you seem to be at the 'more money than sense' level. Pleased I'm not. :D
A standard chassis is perfectly ok, if you you get it at a stage where you can look after it. You seem to be at that stage. Most of us inherit chassis which are past their best and, during our ownership of them, will need major repair or replacement. Once they've gone that far, and a replacement is needed, it makes sense to pay a bit more to get a galvanised one. If I could have afford to buy a newer vehicle, then I would keep on top of it by spending a few quid every couple of years to treat the chassis inside and out. That way it would last one hell of a long time and be very strong.
 
Al2O3 said:
Wow! With all due respect, you seem to be at the 'more money than sense' level. Pleased I'm not. :D
A standard chassis is perfectly ok, if you you get it at a stage where you can look after it. You seem to be at that stage. Most of us inherit chassis which are past their best and, during our ownership of them, will need major repair or replacement. Once they've gone that far, and a replacement is needed, it makes sense to pay a bit more to get a galvanised one. If I could have afford to buy a newer vehicle, then I would keep on top of it by spending a few quid every couple of years to treat the chassis inside and out. That way it would last one hell of a long time and be very strong.
Click to expand...

I get what your saying, but I hate rust, I hate the way Land Rover never galvanised the chassis and bulkheads, if, and it's rare, I go play in the mud, I spend hours afterwards cleaning the chassis and repaint it, have always done that with my quads, 4x4's and classic cars. Seems every week I'm down the motor factors buying paint. to paint something nobody will ever see. I'm hoping fitting a galvanised chassis will allow me to enjoy the 110 instead of scurrying around looking for yet another better paint to cover the chassis or finding new ways of covering the inside of the bulkhead with wax or oil. If you listen really carefully, you can actually hear a Land Rover rusting away lol.

Not really a case of more money than sense, just like to protect my toys I suppose, but it's getting a bit tiresome tbh, thought about selling it, but for once I'm actually attached to a toy and I only would panic and worry about whatever I bought next anyway. I suppose this is what people call a a first world problem. My mates call me anal and a worrier about the 110, maybe there is a help group I can attend.
 
MrNasty said:
I get what your saying, but I hate rust, I hate the way Land Rover never galvanised the chassis and bulkheads, if, and it's rare, I go play in the mud, I spend hours afterwards cleaning the chassis and repaint it, have always done that with my quads, 4x4's and classic cars. Seems every week I'm down the motor factors buying paint. to paint something nobody will ever see. I'm hoping fitting a galvanised chassis will allow me to enjoy the 110 instead of scurrying around looking for yet another better paint to cover the chassis or finding new ways of covering the inside of the bulkhead with wax or oil. If you listen really carefully, you can actually hear a Land Rover rusting away lol.

Not really a case of more money than sense, just like to protect my toys I suppose, but it's getting a bit tiresome tbh, thought about selling it, but for once I'm actually attached to a toy and I only would panic and worry about whatever I bought next anyway. I suppose this is what people call a a first world problem. My mates call me anal and a worrier about the 110, maybe there is a help group I can attend.
Click to expand...
You do sometimes abuse your toys tho.. :)

blackstrat-albums-forum-photo-dump-picture16470-mr-nasty-water.jpg
 
MrNasty said:
I'm an anal, want the galvanised chassis painted in POR15 also, I had the chassis steamed cleaned a few weeks ago to get rid of the dust and ****e from the desert, then it was sprayed with rubberised paint, then with black satin, the innards were sprayed with cavity wax as well as the bulkhead and B pillars. Just feel it deserves a galvanised Richards chassis, plus its an excuse to replace the bushes again.

Another possibility is to have the galv chassis delivered to my local powder coaters, have them bake the chassis first to remove any trapped gas in the coating and get it powder coated, downsides are the P/C fills holes so they have to be drilled and P/C, problem is it's not that impact resistant and eventually cracks, oh I need / want a tdci interior too. I think I have a mental illness to be honest, I've done all this **** before to many previous cars just to then sell them on cheaply as I get bored with them.:)
Click to expand...

Fair enough, l have to admit l'm a bit like that myself with cars, they have to be as good as l can get them.
I just thought that a properly treated original chassis would be a cheaper option.
 
Sorry back to the topic. I have had a look at another one. It is an Special Vehicles silver edition. Got the lovely leather interior and loads of options. chassis is perfect so is the bulk head. Its 2006.

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