What have you done to your Landie today.

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miktdish said:
Chuffin-eck, that's a lot......
Click to expand...
Just got the new refinished one on an exchange basis, measuring both on a straight edge the old one was not only warped about 1mm lengthways but also had a bit of a curl on 2 and 4, the gasket that came off was completely delaminated. Must have seen some high exhaust gas temps in it's life, I think the previous owner had a miniature traction engine he towed around to shows..
 
Old wavy one next to new shiny one, before it gets exchanged.
Straight, dewebbed and heat treated :)

upload_2021-4-8_17-7-11.png
 
Put on the n/s grab handle last week:
9C7380FC-C0AA-4EA4-95D4-CF2C46BD4011.jpeg

....and the o/s one today.
Had to cut a bit out of the handle so it didn't foul the swing away wheel carrier bolt and make a shim for the outer fixing point to level it up with the wheel carrier mount.

IMG_2090 1.jpg


An added bonus today was fixing an annoying rattle from the swing away rear wheel carrier, particularly on rough ground or on shutting the door....kind of a 'clunk-chink' sound. I tightened a threaded nut on the rear of the carrier which took up the slack and the door now closes with a reassuring 'clunk' and no more rattling in motion.

Next on the list is a Hawk remote central locking kit (Xmas gift) and galvanised front mudflap brackets and flaps (B'day gift).
 
Did a service on mine, with new oil and filters. I also changed the gearbox oil because I fitted a reconditioned gearbox a few weeks ago and wanted to give it an early oil change to get rid of any running-in debris. The oil was reasonably clear, and there was a tiny Christmas tree of metal dust on the magnet on the drain plug. So I think we're OK. I also noticed that the large round plastic plug on the front of the cylinder head is getting loose (the 'camshaft oil seal', LDI100030). I can move it in and out with my fingers. So I ordered another one in the hope that it'll be a little more elastic and grip a bit better.
 
Working on the S1 brakes.
Replaced the master cylinder last week & brakes kept on pumping up.
So stripped the brakes down and after replacing rear cylinders with a nice conversion from dingo found the T piece had a slight weep. Phone call round to find no one has one of these. I took up the challenge.
So upgraded to a 90/110 t piece and got some adapters as flexi & brake pipes are a lot larger on the older motors.
Chap at the local Indy LR loves when I walk in. He had all the parts on the shelf.
So all replaced and try again.

did not bleed up so removed circlip from MC and allow piston to come out. Once the fluid was in it bled up the rears.
Got to the front and found 1 new cylinder to have the seals the wrong way.
(Could this have been my problem in the first place)
Turned the seals round and continued.
Bled the fronts and now we have brakes.

mrs been driving her motor for the past few days and all is good.
Now hoping all is good for a wedding trip on Friday for a friend
 
Bought rather than done.......

Hawk HA240 Lite alarm and immobiliser with dual zone ultrasonic and shock sensors and door/bonnet triggers. Will integrate with the Hawk CDL04R remote central locking kit I got for xmas :)

I got the CDL for convenience and thought I might as well get the alarm to go with it; another layer of security. I'll keep my existing hidden ignition kill switch as a second line of defence to the Hawk set up.

Dislock, X-Eng pedal cover, kill switch and Hawk alarm-immobiliser.....I've never had security on any previous Landys so making up for it on this one :cool:

Now, do I need a tracker too? :rolleyes:
 
Fookin brakes on the S1 are sending me mad. Pedal pumps up & then locks up.
Release the pressure in the rear cylinder & ok for about 20miles.
Wondering now if the piston on the MC has moved all the air.(can get this problem on clutch slave cylinders) Busy for the next few weeks so theory into practice will have to wait.
 
Hicap phill said:
Fookin brakes on the S1 are sending me mad. Pedal pumps up & then locks up.
Release the pressure in the rear cylinder & ok for about 20miles.
Wondering now if the piston on the MC has moved all the air.(can get this problem on clutch slave cylinders) Busy for the next few weeks so theory into practice will have to wait.
Click to expand...

Phil, how are you bleeding the brakes...pedal push or suction? I find the £20 hand vacuum pump kits superb for bleeding.

Re MC, sometimes they run 'dry' on assembly/install and the piston seal/s turn slightly meaning they never clear air/provide full on normal braking.
 
v8250 said:
Phil, how are you bleeding the brakes...pedal push or suction? I find the £20 hand vacuum pump kits superb for bleeding.

Re MC, sometimes they run 'dry' on assembly/install and the piston seal/s turn slightly meaning they never clear air/provide full on normal braking.
Click to expand...

Done back pressure through cylinder to MC
(Using foot & pipe)
Bleed front to back
Bleed back to front

had to remove the piston circlip to get the push rod into the MC & piston flew out under the internal spring pressure.

what vacuum pump you using?
 
Hicap phill said:
Done back pressure through cylinder to MC, had to remove the piston circlip to get the push rod into the MC & piston flew out under the internal spring pressure. what vacuum pump you using?
Click to expand...

When you refitted the piston could the seals have 'rolled'? Or, is the MC piston and core in perfect condition? They're a pain when not working cleanly

Re hand vacuum. I use one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mityvac-...080934?hash=item545dceb5e6:g:vF4AAOSwWfdbH6CY

I thought it was ~£20, looks like it's £54 delivered but they're super easy to use + can be used for coolant+engine vacuum testing + comes with a pile of tubes and adaptors. Only part gripe is that the pistol is made of hard plastic rather than metal, but it still works brilliantly. + there's no faffing with lose jars of brake fluid...nor faffing with large fluid volumes or ensuring system is always under +Ve pressure. And as the Bishop said to the Actress, "It just sucks...!"
 
v8250 said:
When you refitted the piston could the seals have 'rolled'? Or, is the MC piston and core in perfect condition? They're a pain when not working cleanly
Click to expand...
No chance the seal has rolled it’s too tight in the tube. Did think that at the start so stripped the old one dow to see what’s what inside.
Literally 1 round seal on the rear nut/bung
1 on the shaft/plunger ( flat type) all under pressure from a spring.

do you put the vacuum on the reservoir or suck through a cylinder ?
 
Today's been a signature day as the last primary mechanical task, the one that very few do...the txfr box handbrake :) And am very glad I did as there were two bolts missing from the cable carrier, no clip holding the handbrake to rear plate and the inside was a mess, De-installed this morning, inspected for/no leak from rear txfr box seal...de-crudded [is this a new word??], degreased, cleaned, primed and 1k chassis black sprayed all the components. Will leave to thoroughly dry overnight.

Have ordered a new set of Mintex shoes, green springs and dust cover/retainer kit - trow will clean/prep/re-grease and re-assemble the adjuster and expander, they're soaking in WD40 filled jars for an overnight cleanse.

Also this week/weekend...it's been busy...cleaned back rear of seat bulkhead, fitted Silent Coat sound deadener, cut out black carpet for bulkhead...removed, T-washed and painted the corner braces. All this ready for new seat belts to be fitted trow + RTV seal between rear plate and seat box + fit new fastener sets. Then it's finally getting around to making up subframe plates for the leather RX8 seats.

Oh, and fitted new side indicators - now that's a faff of a job when the wings are already installed :eek:
 
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