What have you done to your Landie today.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I've "upgraded" all the interior lights to LEDs, and now the 2 headlining lights don't completely go out..they fade but stay a liitle on..aggghhhh
 
My motor
Checked/topped up both diffs.
Checked/cleaned both axle breathers
Topped up engine oil
Filled up washer bottle & adjust jets.

Series 1
Remove rear NATO tow hitch.love proper lubrication when this was built. All came undone with no use of the grinder
 
Horses...It's the only thing that worse than owning a New landy.
Prone to breaking, tetchy
Uncontrollable.
Know what you mean about vets & horses 12 weeks off with ulcers & still not fully right lucky we insure them
 
Hicap phill said:
Horses...It's the only thing that worse than owning a New landy.
Prone to breaking, tetchy
Uncontrollable.
Know what you mean about vets & horses 12 weeks off with ulcers & still not fully right lucky we insure them
Click to expand...
definitely! my two are insured after my youngster had 2 operations before the age of 1. she now built like a brick sh8t house and tough as old boots
gotta love em though........
 
I looked at mine today.

I've bought a military bumper from paddocks or Craddock in black for some unknown reason rather than galv, and I think the black was just a primer because its rusty as sheet now, and makes me pizzed off every time I look at it!

Also, cant decide whether or not to get a soft top and hoops, or go the other way and get a brownchurch roof rack with the extension over te windscreen as that will be more practical for work, but not as cool.

Decisions decisions.... :)
 
On the trip to the shops this morning I kept seeing a puff of smoke in the left hand mirror. I plugged the Nanocom in when I got home and nothing seems to be amiss. No faults stored and cylinder balance values not too excessive. I tightened up the hand brake and reached the end of the adjuster travel before the drum locked solid so it could be time for some new shoes. I tried to adjust the cable too, but the thimble on the end is hard to get at. Cubby box out, centre panel off and there's still not much room. I know, let's take the handbrake lever off the seatbox. Yes, it can be withdrawn enough to get at the thimble, so I took up a few turns of slack. The captive nuts holding the handbrake bracket to the seat box decided to liberate themselves when I put it back together. Fortunately I've got them off and have run a tap through them to make them a little easier on the bolts, and put them back They seem to be made out of a circular nut welded to a tab which is pop riveted to the seatbox. Fortunately it is only the pop rivets that have given up. I can replace them but won't do so until the next time I have the mats up and can get at the front of the seatbox properly. So what I thought would only be a quick job turned out to be a lot longer. As usual.
 
Continuing last nights simple fluid checks I've slipped under the beast to do the axles and grease the nipples. In typical fashion I wish I hadn't, steering box has a really pretty sheen of fresh oil (significant) and the steering belt loose as an ikea wardrobe :(
 
Having started getting my new(ish) seat box in, I found that the new battery box doesn't fit 'cos of the exhaust we fabbed up being too close. The YRM box is a tad larger and squarer than the original, so it was a gnats away. Anyway I decided to cut and weld the exhaust and refit .. works a charm now!

So I also fixed the from A-bar over my winch, which meant the winch had to come off, then the bumper for drilling and fettling. I tend to over engineer stuff I make so the bumper's quite heavy and as it's a 16.5 winch, that also weighs a lot ... heavy lifting and a jack sorted it out ..Added new gearbox and transfer box breather pipes, made 'em look a bot neater then when I'd done them previously.
IMG_20180819_145554.jpg
IMG_20180819_145620.jpg
IMG_20180819_145635.jpg
IMG_20180819_145702.jpg
IMG_20180819_145806.jpg
IMG_20180819_145818.jpg


Halfway through re-doing both props UJ's. Slight play on every one but it amounts to some clattering when on overrun, so while the floor is up..

Also a while ago, I de-stickered the green Simex tread all over the nearside ... cleaned a bit and tried the original Arran Beige colour on it. Looks good, though mine now looks old and sun-weary so might consider re-painting it ... same colour .. :)
 
New steering pump belt on order and I adjusted the current one for now. Cleaned the front axel breather, thanks for the reminder @Paul D. Took the front grill off to see how bad the radiator leak was before I emergency Radweld it whilst away in Devon, looks like a new radiator job as when I tried to sweep away the dust a grime the metal veins disintegrated.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
defender 2.4 puma reverse light switch
Replies
4
Views
664
BEASTIE 90
B
Padda.116
300tdi disco 1, new head gasket oil leak!!
Replies
10
Views
803
Padda.116
Padda.116
Knappster
Shot-blasting steel wheels
Replies
9
Views
1K
Knappster
Knappster
B
Discovery Sport Need some advice please
Replies
2
Views
303
Bp112
B
F
Freelander 1 Tank lift pump: '06 TD4... maybe ok?
Replies
4
Views
249
freelounger
F
Back
Top