What have you done to your Freelander today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Took those ugly looking oem side steps off and sold on ebay to somebody who likes them.
Did a proper MOT inspection although the car was MOTd recently by one of the seller's buddies apparently, found things that should not be there. I will sort brakes and few suspension bits on station's expense.
Purchased myself a nice set of electric leather seats with the armrest, somebody will go tomorrow to inspect/collect. Hopefully I will get some door cards as well with leather stuff.
Melted my debit card with ebay purchases of all sorts. Busy week ahead I will get this car tip top. A FL2 that is.

@Nodge68 mine has a slight tapping noise mostly on cold as well but it has 160k miles with decent service history I suspect eurocarparts finest. Should I even bother with some valve lifter or just live with it :) No misfire.

Also why is there a chain there I was under the impression these are belt driven. Unless changed after 2009 or so...
 
Last edited:
PRO said:
Purchased myself a nice set of electric leather seats with the armrest, somebody will go tomorrow to inspect/collect. Hopefully I will get some door cards as well with leather stuff.
Click to expand...
If the seats have memory buttons, you will probably need to do some wiring, and program the vehicle to work with the memory module. ;)
PRO said:
Melted my debit card with ebay purchases of all sorts. Busy week ahead I will get this car tip top. A FL2 that is.
Click to expand...
Been there, done that.:eek:
PRO said:
mine has a slight tapping noise mostly on cold as well but it has 160k miles with decent service history I suspect eurocarparts finest. Should I even bother with some valve lifter or just live with it :) No misfire
Click to expand...
It's a bit of a design failing of the way the valves are operated, especially if incorrect grades of oil are used, or oil changes are delayed/missed.
Normally an engine valve rotates as the cam lifts it, so the contact point on the valves wears evenly.

However on lots of PSA engines, the rockers have roller tips, which stops wear on the rocker, but prevents the valves from rotating. The side effect of the valve not rotating, means the roller of the rocker makes a roller shaped indentation in the valve stem top surface. As the gap is greater than the hydraulic lifter can compensate, there is an increase is tappet clearance, and an increase in value noise as a result.
There wear on my No3 inlet valve is very evident in this picture.
Screenshot_20210331-092920_Gallery.jpg

This is another reason why I wanted to find a low mileage replacement head.

PRO said:
Also why is there a chain there I was under the impression these are belt driven. Unless changed after 2009 or so..
Click to expand...
The timing chain drives the inlet cam off the exhaust cam. The exhaust cam is driven by the timing belt.
This style cam drive is pretty common, as it makes it easy to replace timing belts, and minimises points were oil can leak out. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Got the V6 cooling system bleeding done, then discovered a fuel leak from the even (rear) bank fuel rail end cap.:mad:
So I had to strip the rear rail off, so I could check and re-seat the rail O rings, and reassemble the engine again, this no fuel leak was evident. :) Let's hope it stays that way, as there's someone coming to look at it tomorrow.

I also took delivery of this. View attachment 234577 View attachment 234578 View attachment 234579
It's a very low (8900) miles cylinder head for my FL2, which is showing absolutely zero wear on the valve gear.
Unfortunately it's 8 months too late, so I'll have to get the engine apart for the second time in a year:mad:, but once it's on, at least I'll have a nice quiet (no tappet noise) and hopefully slightly less lumpy running FL2.:D
Click to expand...
Ooooooo engine porn pics:) these photos are giving me the urge to strip my Jacto apart...:D
 
jedi said:
This is the main reason I bought it these pesty Amigos:(, now I have to check them one by one to see which is faulty
Click to expand...

And in answer to whether the WOW Delphi connects to the 2001 V6 ABS module, the answer is yes.
Screenshot_20210331-184845_Gallery.jpg

Although it doesn't give much useful information, and clearing the codes didn't clear the ABS light. :(
 
andyfreelandy said:
My early 2000 car has to have a 5mph rolling to clear ABS light - but then you would know this already I guess!?!?!?!
Click to expand...

Yes I know that Andy, but my V6 (this vehicle) cleared the ABS light, after the lamp test.
While working on this vehicle for the first time in 4 or 5 years, its obvious that someone other than me has been working on it. Apparently the mothers in law's partner has been taking it to his work (he's an HGV driver), for one of the fitters to sort out. I'm thinking it's had a replacement ABS modulator (maybe an earlier one?)(this may explain the missing CAN errors?), as someone has definitely been at the brake unions.
Maybe the ABS light will go out, when I drive more than 5 MPH, which I will try over the weekend, as I've not driven it since getting it home for repair.
 
Last edited:
I know it's cheating, as it wasn't actually today, but over the last couple of days. Finally got my fuel tank straps changed and the CV boot clamp changed. Although it was changed for a plastic zip tie, which some MOT testers might fail...
Then, in a fit of unbridled enthusiasm, I changed the cracked tail light for the replacement I have had since Methuselah and me used to hang out as teenagers.
In an equally upsetting rush of crap to the brain, I changed the left rear window regulator which I had the replacement parts for since shortly after buying the car.
I wasn't even finished at that point, as the next day I finally (almost) fettled the rear door window regulator. The only trouble with that is that is won't take a recalibration, so the drop to open the rear door isn't working. Needs more looking into.
Hopefully, it is ready for the MOT on Saturday as the Nissan Pixo I have been using over the winter has finally given up to my continual assault on its clutch.
I was quoted £290 for the clutch change on that thing, but I don't think the car is worth that much, plus I'd be waiting until next week to get it done.
If the poor Hippo fails its MOT tomorrow, I might have to get a £40 clutch kit and fit it on the drive to get me by for work until I get the old girl sorted.
Although, there was an interesting looking Jag and a Merc C180 estate down the road for £3000 each, both auto... Throw the Pixo away and grab one of those, maybe. :D
 
paul99 said:
I know it's cheating, as it wasn't actually today, but over the last couple of days. Finally got my fuel tank straps changed and the CV boot clamp changed. Although it was changed for a plastic zip tie, which some MOT testers might fail...
Then, in a fit of unbridled enthusiasm, I changed the cracked tail light for the replacement I have had since Methuselah and me used to hang out as teenagers.
In an equally upsetting rush of crap to the brain, I changed the left rear window regulator which I had the replacement parts for since shortly after buying the car.
I wasn't even finished at that point, as the next day I finally (almost) fettled the rear door window regulator. The only trouble with that is that is won't take a recalibration, so the drop to open the rear door isn't working. Needs more looking into.
Hopefully, it is ready for the MOT on Saturday as the Nissan Pixo I have been using over the winter has finally given up to my continual assault on its clutch.
I was quoted £290 for the clutch change on that thing, but I don't think the car is worth that much, plus I'd be waiting until next week to get it done.
If the poor Hippo fails its MOT tomorrow, I might have to get a £40 clutch kit and fit it on the drive to get me by for work until I get the old girl sorted.
Although, there was an interesting looking Jag and a Merc C180 estate down the road for £3000 each, both auto... Throw the Pixo away and grab one of those, maybe. :D
Click to expand...
For £3k you could get a couple more Freelanders - that way you'd always have 1 to drive while you fix the other 2 :D
 
I was looking... Locally, not much available. A nice, but smokey, G class Merc got a quick test drive. It was a 2.7 litre diesel, so running costs would be high. Not a lot on the Freelander front that I was interested in, though. I keep wondering if Nodge still has his FL1 auto, but remember him saying he wasn't too comfortable selling it whilst the box was still a bit iffy.
 
So I recently got my first land rover, a td4 freelander in white. Today I have the job of giving it a real good clean, inside and out. Took it through the car wash and it didn't do much, gotta get the polishing rags out lol.
 
paul99 said:
Have a look through this and the other stickied threads in the Freelander section. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
And for the sake of your sanity, stay out of the Anything Goes section! Don't say you were never warned...
Click to expand...
I've been browsing the forums a little already, but ill have another look (still getting used to the site). Regarding checks on the vehicle, I've already had a service on it and a couple things sorting out, but its good to go! Will eventually need a new back door, theres a little corrosion and the handle has been reattached (although still works and looks okay), but not a priority atm. Just needs a good jet wash and polish..
 
paul99 said:
I keep wondering if Nodge still has his FL1 auto, but remember him saying he wasn't too comfortable selling it whilst the box was still a bit iffy.
Click to expand...

No. Not got that now. It went for spares or repair last October, as it was in my way. I've a FL2 now instead, which at the time needed extensive engine repairs.

I've currently got the mother in law's V6 up for sale, which I used to own.

I took her for a quick test drive last night, and seems ok, although I feels like an inboard CV is playing up, as there's a low frequency vibration on pulling away, which disappeared at 30.
The ABS light went out at 5 MPH too, so that's working, although is different to how I remember it. Maybe my memory is just getting cloudy. :(
 
Last edited:
been using my foxwell scanner - i got a few random codes front subs left and right open circuit and a couple comms issue with the different control modules after a bit of confusion with front subs and a bit of head scratching - it turns out i needed the radio on to enable the scanner to read the module correctly lol i have aglow plug away - cold this morning and i fired them up before the I started the engine and all was well so not worried, the PTC fault - damn that fuse was hard to get at and no help on tinternt that i could see, and an interior motion sensor fault, the alarm went off a couple of times randomly, I just i found out only kicks in when you hit the button twice so 1 press for me... I was pressing it multiple times as the door lock is on its way out and i haven't got round to fitting the new one just yet


 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
13
Views
742
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
347
Freddie17
Freddie17
R
LED side lights not working
Replies
9
Views
819
RickyFreelander
R
C
Rear wheel bearings or diff
Replies
11
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
L
Freelander 1 2005 Land Rover Freelander 1 HSE - Loose Gear Selector in Automatic Transmission
Replies
3
Views
661
Hippo
Hippo
Back
Top