It was there before I did them. I actually noticed it when a turned the car round before starting the solenoid job. On the plus side. The gearbox worked faultlessly today.Or maybe something not quite secure following your solenoids change?
It was there before I did them. I actually noticed it when a turned the car round before starting the solenoid job. On the plus side. The gearbox worked faultlessly today.Or maybe something not quite secure following your solenoids change?
The gearbox worked faultlessly today.
The annoying thing was the fault was random. Sometimes it would be fine for weeks on my daily commute, but then it'll suddenly throw a wobbly for a full week. I found that I could get the fault to show it's head by driving from mine to Bodmin. Just as I pulled from the A30 to the A38, the box would slam into 1st instead of 3rd. I drove it 15 miles after putting it back together yesterday, and it behaved and has done since. So fingers crossed I've sorted it. The box is definitely nicer, now it's got some fresh fluid in it.Good news indeed.
For a while. But I'm thinking of moving on to the FL2 at some point, if the right one comes along.Keeping the old girl for a bit longer then?
The FL1 is an easy car to fix, unless you want to change gearbox solenoids, which are a PITA.Bought it!
Then found the intake hanging off and a vast array of other problems to sort!
Access to the solenoids is tight, although less so on the V6, as there's no boost pipes or fuel pipes in the way. You access some from below and some from above. You have a gap of 4 or 5 inches between the cooler pack and the value block face.
You need to remove both the under tray and battery tray. You will then need to move the fluid cooler to the side, or remove it completely ,if you're going to be changing the coolant at the same time. You also need to drain the box, as the fluid level is above the bottom of the value block cover (traditionally the sump).
Once you can access the solenoids, you'll find them a right PITA to do, as you're pretty much working blind in the space you have. The 2 lower solenoids are accessed from below, while the 7 other's are accessed from above.
It took me 6 hours or so, but I did have to sort the battery tray clamp and did a video on repairing the brake duty solenoid too.
I'll have to do it on a weekend when I don't need to drive the Hippo to work on Monday.....just in case!
Neither are particularly challenging, but far from quick and easy. I did my pipes 2 years ago, but I'll need to do the tank cradle for this year's MOT.One was a severely corroded fuel tank cradle and another was a severely corroded brake pipe.
Mine doesn't. He's just put the same advisories as last year, on the wife's BMW convertible.Do you think the testers check previous advisories before inspecting cars?
The mot is due on my fl1 k series and I'm dreading it. Last year, I only had to replace the drop links, weld an exhaust support back on and fix the rear number plate light but it had some advisories. One was a severely corroded fuel tank cradle and another was a severely corroded brake pipe. Whilst I was under it doing the drop links and exhaust, I had a good look at the cradle and brake pipes and they looked fine to me, yes a bit rusty but still plenty of life left. Do you think the testers check previous advisories before inspecting cars?
Col
You can buy cradles relatively cheaply but replacing them is a fairly big job. I've replaced the plates on several Freelanders using home made plates. Some were alloy and some thin steel. I used cable ties a couple of times and home made brackets.Hmmmm.... I noticed my tank cradle was pretty crispy, when I was doing the diff mounts....
Boats that cost £400?Today I cleaned-up a second hand, OEM tow bar I recently acquired. Tomorrow I will try to fit it, if all goes well I'll soon be towing a trailer with boats worth over forty times the value of what's pulling it along!
Thanks - loving the little stiffening ribs pressed into them, by the way!You can buy cradles relatively cheaply but replacing them is a fairly big job. I've replaced the plates on several Freelanders using home made plates. Some were alloy and some thin steel. I used cable ties a couple of times and home made brackets.
Here are a few photos I took of various versions.View attachment 178819 View attachment 178820 View attachment 178822 View attachment 178809 View attachment 178810 View attachment 178811 View attachment 178812 View attachment 178813 View attachment 178814 View attachment 178815 View attachment 178816 View attachment 178817
The hardest part was getting the old brackets off cleanly.
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