kernowsvenski
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Done my drop links. It took two hours as the driver's side was a right sod. The passenger side took 20 mins! The next similar job will be done with a grinder on standby I think.
Unless you used OEM drop links it will be much easier next time.Done my drop links. It took two hours as the driver's side was a right sod. The passenger side took 20 mins! The next similar job will be done with a grinder on standby I think.
Unless you used OEM drop links it will be much easier next time
Unless you used OEM drop links it will be much easier next time.
It'll probably be in 6 months or so. Don't ask how I know.
Very true Ali. I changed some Bearmach drop links after just 7 months. The boots had split allowing water to enter the joints, causing rapid deterioration of the balls. I replaced them with some cheaper EBay drop links as a test to see if they're any worse than the Bearmach drop links. It takes me just a few minutes each side to change. I don't even bother jacking the car up, I just turn the steering instead.
I used Delphi so I'm hopeful that they'll last some considerable time.
Interesting you say that about the Bearmach units Nodge. I'm pretty sure it was Bearmach I bought last time hoping they would be better than cheapo ebay. Looks like I was wrong as I can hear them rattling again. I'm pretty sure they are on less than a year.I agree. I'm only using cheap drop links as a test to prove it's worth spending the extra on OE parts. I'm on my 3rd set of cheap drop links in 2 years. The Bearmach were the shortest lasting so far, which is a worry.
Next time I'm using Meyle-HD drop links as I know they last.
They were definitely Bearmach Ali and the boots rotted away far faster than I expected. In the 3 cheap sets I've fitted, the Bearmach lasted the shortest time before they rattled.Interesting you say that about the Bearmach units Nodge. I'm pretty sure it was Bearmach I bought last time hoping they would be better than cheapo ebay. Looks like I was wrong as I can hear them rattling again. I'm pretty sure they are on less than a year.
Today this kit was sitting on the door mat when I got home. View attachment 149097
So after a fish and chips tea, I set to work stripping the starter out so I could fit the new contactor set. 90 minutes later and the car cranks over perfectly again.
Hopefully that's the starter sorted again for the foreseeable future.
Much more pleasant than working on a Freelander in the cold sea mist we have here at the moment.The important question.................how was the fish'n'chips
I recently rebuilt my fronts with Big Red kits. Seal and piston was about 12 quid each side if I remember rightly, I didn't replace the sliders though just cleaned, regreased and new seals.Took it to bits, but after 16 years of abuse it needs replacing.
So going to do both front pistons with a rebuild kit.
So going to do both front pistons with a rebuild kit. Seen quite a few options ranging from £30-£60 for both sides.
I shall preempt @Hippo leaping to your Freelander's defense - it wasn't being naughty it was following daddy's example and cleaning up after the fly tippers - who are the naughty ones. Daddy got burn fingers, Freelander got overheated calipersAfter pulling someone else's timing belt out off my front brake, burnt fingers fun! My caliper has decided to seize up. Took it to bits, but after 16 years of abuse it needs replacing.
So going to do both front pistons with a rebuild kit. Seen quite a few options ranging from £30-£60 for both sides. But anybody got a recommendation for what brand to use.
Not going to do it for a couple of weeks as I'm off in the tin tent for a well deserved holiday and fortunately I've just done all the brakes on the Jeep so I'll be using that while the Freelander sits on the drive sulking for being very naughty.
Cheers
Mike
This got me thinking, I don't think my pads have to much life left in them, my tyres the same. So when the first come to need replacing, it may be worth putting new tyres on the 6 spoke 15" wheels off my 01 parts car and use them and replace the calipers with uprated 1A ones.
Does anyone know if 1A calipers can be used on the early master and solid discs? I replaced the disks quite recently.
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