What have you done to your Freelander today

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I `m not sure to tell you the truth. I pulled the rear pulley off and heard something hit the floor. It turned out to be a bit of metal from next to the notch where the drive cog locates in the cam.
I don`t know how I could have caused it. I wonder if the last guy that had the engine apart gave it a hard enough knock to fracture it.
Now I am trying to source a good used cam to avoid paying for a new one. Pity, the lobes on the old cam were perfect.
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
I `m not sure to tell you the truth. I pulled the rear pulley off and heard something hit the floor. It turned out to be a bit of metal from next to the notch where the drive cog locates in the cam.
I don`t know how I could have caused it. I wonder if the last guy that had the engine apart gave it a hard enough knock to fracture it.
Now I am trying to source a good used cam to avoid paying for a new one. Pity, the lobes on the old cam were perfect.
Click to expand...
Got a picture of the broken piece and cam.
The cams are pretty strong forgings that are quite difficult to break.
 
Here is the cam. I wouldn`t feel bad blaming the last guy who worked on it. He left a trail of stripped fasteners and excess sealant in the engine. Not exactly `Mr. Finesse!`
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Possibly but It would have to be machined after.
Anyway I just ordered a new cam from LR Direct. The price was right and there will be no hassles and no worries about using a welded part.
Now it's just a matter of cleaning parts while I wait for the bits to arrive.
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
Here is the cam. I wouldn`t feel bad blaming the last guy who worked on it. He left a trail of stripped fasteners and excess sealant in the engine. Not exactly `Mr. Finesse!`
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Click to expand...

What a mess. How the cam can be broken there is beyond me. He was no mechanic that's for sure. At least you found a replacement ok. If you were stuck, I have a full set of cams in storage.
 
The guy must have given it a real whack. I`m wondering if he put the broken piece on, then did the pulley up good and tight to keep it together.
There are all sorts of paint pen marks on the front cam pulleys and `Pulley shifted slightly` written on the crank pulley. I`m sure he didn`t have a manual. It`s a wonder the thing ran as well as it did.
On the positive side I got a delivery notice today that the parts I ordered from Rimmers on Monday will be here tomorrow (Friday).
Half way around the world in 4 days-Pretty impressive! The new cam will be a few days behind though so I think I will take the MGF to Cars and Coffee on Saturday. :)

Gee thanks.
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Enough marks?
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Last edited:
Rich in Vancouver said:
The guy must have given it a real whack. I`m wondering if he put the broken piece on, then did the pulley up good and tight to keep it together.
There are all sorts of paint pen marks on the front cam pulleys and `Pulley shifted slightly` written on the crank pulley. I`m sure he didn`t have a manual. It`s a wonder the thing ran as well as it did.
On the positive side I got a delivery notice today that the parts I ordered from Rimmers on Monday will be here tomorrow (Friday).
Half way around the world in 4 days-Pretty impressive! The new cam will be a few days behind though so I think I will take the MGF to Cars and Coffee on Saturday. :)

Gee thanks.
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Enough marks?
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Click to expand...

I'm at a loss as to how the cam can be damaged like that. Although simply fitting the broken piece in place, will allow the thing to work ok. There's no way the pulley can move, once the bolt is tightened.

There's nothing wrong with using paint on the pulleys for marking them. I do it myself, as I don't have the cam locking tools. Providing the paint is in the correct place, the iming will be the same when an new belt is fitted. The crack is locked with a 6mm drill, through the drive plate.

Make sure you use the correct sealer on the cam housing. ;)
 
I`m sure it must have been dropped. I`ve never seen anything like it either.
I was able to buy a set of the tools on Amazon for the equivilant of 80GBP so not too bad.
It looks like the previous guy used RTV sealer on the cam carrier. It`s all over the place.
I wouldn`t be surprised if some got into one of the tappets causing the noise. I have the proper sealant
so no more of that.
 
Could it have broken if he was hammering the oil seal on with a socket that was too small? It sounds like the kind of thing he'd be stupid enough to do.
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
Certainly wouldn't surprise me. He even ripped the brass inserts out of the timing belt housings, probably using an air ratchet on them. :(
Click to expand...

That's surprisingly common. Most people who take the covers off, tighten them up far to hard. A quip "nip" up with a 1/4" ratchet is all thats needed. They definitely don't need to to be wheel nut tight.
 
Today I stripped the OS rear drum to change the shoes, ready for the up coming MOT. I discovered the shoes were fine. So I just cleaned up the backplates and shoes. Applied anti-seize compound to the standoffs and reassembled with new springs and hold down pins.

I then set to work replacing the OS rear brake pipes and flexy. The iron pipe was quite rusty in a couple of places. So I'm glad I spotted it whilst dealing with the rust on the underbody last weekend.
I also discovered the source of the creaking from the front over speed humps. It appears that the large rear bush on the front arm, has completely detached it's self from the arm. The list of jobs seems to be growing, although the time to get it done is shrinking!
 
While I am waiting for the replacement camshaft to arrive for my V6 I decided to start cleaning the parts. I have a feeling I have found out why I have a tappity noise and 4 of the tappets on my L/H head don't bounce back when depressed. Check out the amount of silicone seal that I pulled off the cam carrier, mainly out of the oilways. I wouldn't be surprised if bits of silicone have gummed up the tappets.
Another observation on the broken camshaft... Looking at the construction of the end of the cam that was broken, there is too much metal there to have been broken by removing or replacing the pulley. The cam must have been dropped the last time it was out. :mad:

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Rich in Vancouver said:
While I am waiting for the replacement camshaft to arrive for my V6 I decided to start cleaning the parts. I have a feeling I have found out why I have a tappity noise and 4 of the tappets on my L/H head don't bounce back when depressed. Check out the amount of silicone seal that I pulled off the cam carrier, mainly out of the oilways. I wouldn't be surprised if bits of silicone have gummed up the tappets.
Another observation on the broken camshaft... Looking at the construction of the end of the cam that was broken, there is too much metal there to have been broken by removing or replacing the pulley. The cam must have been dropped the last time it was out. :mad:

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Click to expand...

That's why silicone isn't a suitable sealer for the K series engine. You do have the correct anaerobic sealer don't you.
 
removed diesel pump and replaced all seals and changed torx head bolts to allen head bolts, them torx heads must be the worst ever and very shallow it doesn't take much of a slip to wear them.
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
While I am waiting for the replacement camshaft to arrive for my V6 I decided to start cleaning the parts. I have a feeling I have found out why I have a tappity noise and 4 of the tappets on my L/H head don't bounce back when depressed. Check out the amount of silicone seal that I pulled off the cam carrier, mainly out of the oilways. I wouldn't be surprised if bits of silicone have gummed up the tappets.
Another observation on the broken camshaft... Looking at the construction of the end of the cam that was broken, there is too much metal there to have been broken by removing or replacing the pulley. The cam must have been dropped the last time it was out. :mad:

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Click to expand...
OMG! :eek:

I thought the bodges on my 1.8 K-series were bad - but at least they didn't use ANY cam sealant at all (strange but true! :eek:)
 
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