What have you done to your Freelander today

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Nodge68 said:
It appears it doesn't end Ali.:mad:
The faster LR start selling affordable EVs the better. o_O

I also noticed a strange drumming or humming noise at exactly 50 on 2 occasions while dropping No3 daughter to her friends in Newquay.

This was the same journey where it spluttered after a right turn. It also suffered a drop in idle speed after I turned round at the end of her friends road, I was also greeted with 2 warnings on the dash, 1 saying washer fluid low, 1 saying coolant low The car was at a strange angle so put the warnings down to fluids shifting away from the sensors. The coolant wasn't low once I'd released the pressure in the tank, but I'm struggling to work out where all this pressure is coming from.:(
I'm thinking the spluttering is due to the transfer pump in the tank. It did the dropping idle speed thing a second time while sitting at the traffic lights half way home, it was just a momentary drop.

I've no idea what's making the humming noise at 50 though, I've never heard it before, and it only did it those 2 times. :confused:

Yes you mention your wife's car, and turning the radio up is a good idea. ;)
Click to expand...
Maybe it's time to think about selling it on. :(

BTW I know you tried leaving a comment on my last Youtube video but it isn't showing. Did you put a link in the post or mention Amazon?
Pootube seems to like deleting comments and usually for no good reason.
 
I had both the Freelander AND the Citroën C2 fully valeted yesterday. The guy spent four hours getting them both spectacularly spick and span...
Today, I have mainly - and repeatedly - been removing water from all windows with my K'Archer window vac. It's emanating from the shapoo'd carpets and cloth upholstery.
The combined cost of £90 was money well spent. Citroën will be on Marketplace tonight and will hopefully sell promptly. Interior looks like new!
Freelander now displaying evidence of light damage and - more worryingly - tinworm, previously covered in mud & muck :confused::confused::confused:
 
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Alibro said:
Maybe it's time to think about selling it on.
Click to expand...

I can't do that yet, as I've no idea what to replace it with, and I happen to like it, when it's behaving itself.

Alibro said:
BTW I know you tried leaving a comment on my last Youtube video but it isn't showing. Did you put a link in the post or mention Amazon?
Click to expand...

Yes, there's an amazon product code.
Here B09BDTMP5H it's an in independent water sensor for £5 which will sound a warning if water gets in your battery box.

I'll modify my post to eliminate the Amazon connection.
 
Replacement water pump for the front screen wash.
Bit of a fiddle especially when you cock it up and the rear wash pump by mistake and have to go again
 
@Alibro, I'm not meaning to belittle Nodge's suggestion, but looking at that sensor kit, it's "probe" is little more than two pin male dupont connector, typically used in Arduino and other hobby electronics, when the leaking water hits and links the two pins, it creates the circuit and triggers the alarm buzzer. Given what you've done so far, it's well within your abilities to crimp up something like that, even if it's little more than securing a couple of insulated spade connector crimps to the floor of a battery box with a dollop of polyurethane adhesive such as tiger seal or sikaflex and wire it up to dashboard lights.

[Eexcuse my lack of knowledge of the freelander's I-Pack's workings, I'm just thinking in terms of straight wiring like a real landy dash would use, I am aware that there is the possibility that the sensors might be encoded to the CCU then onto the I-Pack or other such unnecessary complications]

Howevr, with the above cavaet aside, for bonus OE Appearance points, could the circuit be wired up the battery box water warning light probes being little more than an insulated spade connector adhesively bonded to but electrically insulated from the deck of the battery box, then have the battery box earth bonded to the body, so on the -ve side of the 12v circuit? If you fed 12v through a redundant warning lamp, say oil pressure, to the insulated spade(s) electricity could only flow through the warning lamp on the dash when the water in the battery box linked the insulated spade to the shell of the box creating a circuit to "ground".

[Damn I miss pictures on this forum - so handy for diagrams]

When "Dry"
[+12v from fusebox] ---> [Warning Lamp] ----> [insulated spade] ----|
(Circuit stops as no route to ground through the absent water so the lamp is off)

When "Wet"
[+12v from fusebox] ---> [Warning Lamp] ----> [insulated spade] ~~~ [Water] ---> ground
(Circuit completes through the water so the lamp illuminates)
 
Jayridium said:
@Alibro, I'm not meaning to belittle Nodge's suggestion, but looking at that sensor kit, it's "probe" is little more than two pin male dupont connector, typically used in Arduino and other hobby electronics, when the leaking water hits and links the two pins, it creates the circuit and triggers the alarm buzzer. Given what you've done so far, it's well within your abilities to crimp up something like that, even if it's little more than securing a couple of insulated spade connector crimps to the floor of a battery box with a dollop of polyurethane adhesive such as tiger seal or sikaflex and wire it up to dashboard lights.

[Eexcuse my lack of knowledge of the freelander's I-Pack's workings, I'm just thinking in terms of straight wiring like a real landy dash would use, I am aware that there is the possibility that the sensors might be encoded to the CCU then onto the I-Pack or other such unnecessary complications]

Howevr, with the above cavaet aside, for bonus OE Appearance points, could the circuit be wired up the battery box water warning light probes being little more than an insulated spade connector adhesively bonded to but electrically insulated from the deck of the battery box, then have the battery box earth bonded to the body, so on the -ve side of the 12v circuit? If you fed 12v through a redundant warning lamp, say oil pressure, to the insulated spade(s) electricity could only flow through the warning lamp on the dash when the water in the battery box linked the insulated spade to the shell of the box creating a circuit to "ground".

[Damn I miss pictures on this forum - so handy for diagrams]

When "Dry"
[+12v from fusebox] ---> [Warning Lamp] ----> [insulated spade] ----|
(Circuit stops as no route to ground through the absent water so the lamp is off)

When "Wet"
[+12v from fusebox] ---> [Warning Lamp] ----> [insulated spade] ~~~ [Water] ---> ground
(Circuit completes through the water so the lamp illuminates)
Click to expand...
I'll get future Alibro to sort this out.
Present Alibro is busy sipping Baileys and Past Alibro has caused nothing but trouble. :p
 
Jayridium said:
I'm not meaning to belittle Nodge's suggestion, but looking at that sensor kit, it's "probe" is little more than two pin male dupont connector
Click to expand...

No offence taken. ;)
It's just a cheap n dirty box with a probe (yes it's a Dupont plug) which is wired through a simple transistor circuit which turns on a built-in sounder in the case. I've got 3 similar but much more expensive versions in the oil tank bunds at my school.
If the probe detects a tiny current across the contacts caused by oil in the bund (oil has a resistance too), then the sounder will activate an audible warning of tank failure.
 
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In my recently valeted FL1, I have mainly today been getting changed out of my damp trousers, as they're getting soaked still after the driver's seat being thoroughly shampoo'd!
Tomorrow I'll have to brim the diesel tank in readiness for travelling to my Christmas lunch with my family between Barnsley and Wakefield, then back to being "Billy no mates" again for a while...hahaha
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!
 
htr said:
Hmm, I have to replace a wheel bearing on the rear left hand side. There is no way I can get the the hub housing off the drive shaft splines! Tried a puller, heat / cold... I may have to pop the driveshaft out of the diff' and send the whole assembly to an engineers and put it in their 100 tonne press. Only prob' with that is there is a risk of smashing the hub housing.

If you have experienced the same how did you get it to bits?
Click to expand...
Have you managed to get any further over Christmas?

Will you be sending the "whole suspension"? If you just send the hub & shaft, you'll need to get those long bolts out that cause people so many problems. I haven't had to do bearings/shafts on the back, so no experience here. In my early day's of fixing cars (Triumph), I remember going to the breakers and getting the whole setup to fix problems - unbolt from chassis and bolt on mine. Forget what problems I was fixing, may have been bearings, one time was definitely when a hub sheared (that was a Triumph based Spartan kitcar).
 
Haven't done much to my Freelander for months.

Today I was a passenger in it. Mrs Grumpy was dropping me off at the park and, while I walk the dog, she and our daughter went to the shop, then picked me and mutt back up after.

We live on a back section, have a drive up to our house between 2 houses and either side there are bushes/trees. It is though nice and wide, I have reversed trailers, boats, transporters up it no problem. So we get in the car and Mrs Grumpy comments about hating it when I'm in the car... then proceeds to try reversing the car down the drive... Straight into the bushes and trees... not just brushing then, like right embedded in them... Not much wonder the paintwork is looking like the car goes off roading through the bush every weekend! Sample pic of drive...

upload_2022-12-27_22-34-41.png


When they picked us up and we headed out of the park carpark, my daughter turns to me and says I'd be proud of mum up the shop... then shows me a pic on here phone... she'd parked next to another Freelander :D

That's cool I says, is it (rego) BAW459? She zooms in on the pic, and sure enough it was. You nerd she says :D

In my defence, there aren't that many Freelanders around here.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Have you managed to get any further over Christmas?

Will you be sending the "whole suspension"? If you just send the hub & shaft, you'll need to get those long bolts out that cause people so many problems. I haven't had to do bearings/shafts on the back, so no experience here. In my early day's of fixing cars (Triumph), I remember going to the breakers and getting the whole setup to fix problems - unbolt from chassis and bolt on mine. Forget what problems I was fixing, may have been bearings, one time was definitely when a hub sheared (that was a Triumph based Spartan kitcar).
Click to expand...
Hiya G!
I have to wait until the w'shop reopens. I've priced a s/h hub housing in Ashburton - Hunt parts/wreckers? It's a just in case it does break in that press. Otherwise it seems to be ticking along quiet well at the mo'.
 
htr said:
Hiya G!
I have to wait until the w'shop reopens. I've priced a s/h hub housing in Ashburton - Hunt parts/wreckers? It's a just in case it does break in that press. Otherwise it seems to be ticking along quiet well at the mo'.
Click to expand...
Terrible time of year to get parts or need services - often all shut up until summat like the 2nd or 3rd Monday in Jan depending on how the weekends fall.

Often used to see a Freelander being broke on TradeMe by a seller in Ashburton. Haven't checked lately, dunno if that's the place.
 
When driveshaft stuck in bearing race, I have upended and flooded with wd40. Leave for a day or so then support the hub well on blocks and using a scrap of metal on the driveshaft end welt it with a club hammer.
Never fails. Well, never failed so far !!
 
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Good old Halfords

Slightly off -topic, need a new battery for Daughters crappy motor

These are Halfords recommendations.....will go for the cheaper one for obvious reasons.

upload_2022-12-27_15-14-42.png
 

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