What have you done to your Freelander today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Nodge68 said:
I don't mine being pestered.
I've actually got a suspected injector issue on my FL2, as it's getting a bit spluttery when starting first thing in the morning, and when I leave work, along with a quick puff of white smoke, so I think an injector is draining down while it's not running. I'm currently thinking about how to work out which injector it is, as I don't want to be pulling them out and guessing, due to the hassle reprogramming the ECM every time an injector is replaced.
Click to expand...

Can't you pull it out and test it in a cola bottle ?
so you can see it wet fart ... I know yo have to do it one at a time, but it might help ...
 
Dippypud said:
Can't you pull it out and test it in a cola bottle ?
so you can see it wet fart ... I know yo have to do it one at a time, but it might help ...
Click to expand...
Unfortunately not. The shape of the fuel rail pipework prevents the injectors from being connected, unless they're in the head.
 
Finally finished replacing:-
Rear dampers inc. gaiters & bump stops (Meyle) & new bolts & nuts for struts to hub.
Rear springs (KYB).
Rear wheel cyl's.
Rear brake shoes.
Rear flexi pipes.
Brake pipes from flexi to wheel cyl's.
Rear brake pipes from flexi hoses (joined) to underneath drivers door.
Rear drive shaft oil seal (N/S).
After a spin it rides a lot smoother & the brakes feel better. I've got to adjust the handbrake as it's coming up six clicks instead of three but still holds the car on our sloping drive (unlike before).
It's been off the road for over a month:( due to D2 alternator failing a few days before a week away last half term so I had to replace that & the usual weather/time constraints but hey ho it's nice to be back in it :).
Next up are the front dampers, top mounts & springs hopefully it should only take a day or two at most, weather & body permitting, as it's not much fun working outside on ya drive;).
 
After changing the N/S d/shaft oil seal last weekish I decided to suck the oil out of the rear diff using this Hilka oil sucking device & it worked rather well.
20211130_105829.jpg
 
Nice work. When I did the diff oil on mine the diff pan was bolted and polyeurethaned onto the casing, so it was an absolute cow to remove, and a nightmare to replace it as the bolts near the top don't have a lot of clearance.
 
Put some Comma Diesel Magic in it, then drove it harder than normal.
Suddenly the misfire under power seems to have vanished, except for a few seconds, after the first start of the morning, when I'm getting a puff of white smoke, and a splutter.
 
kernowsvenski said:
The questions are, what fun stuff can I do with it, and will it aid me in diagnosing which injector(s) need sorting on the TD4?
Click to expand...
If it is a 930 then you can read codes, mine doesn't do the Abs unless I tell it that the vehicle is a 2003 model. It is a 2002 so you light be OK. You can then read abs faults and wheel speeds.
Live engine data, revs, fuel pressure high and low, air temp, water temp, manifold air pressure etc.
Mine has an injector balance figure but it doesn't work on mine.

I also have a Pscan where it does work but I don't yet understand the figure!! Things like +0.04 and - 1.2. At the moment I assume that if they are similar for all injectors we are probs OK!!
This might work on your later vehicle.
Plug it in and have a play!!
The use of esc and enter take a bit of getting used to. You have to OK for a 'yes' and esc takes you back. So when you enter the live data and select what you want you then have to press 'esc' to get the figures!! That seems wrong. You'll get the hang of it.
Don't forget to report back!!
 
kernowsvenski said:
The questions are, what fun stuff can I do with it, and will it aid me in diagnosing which injector(s) need sorting on the TD4?
Click to expand...
Not much really. It'll do SRS codes and clearance (as you know;) ), it'll do ABS codes and clearance, it'll do EDC codes, and some live parameters.
It'll communicate with the Ipack, but doesn't do anything with it, other than put the warning lights on.
It doesn't seem to communicate with the TCM at all, or the CCU, at least it didn't in mine.

It's better on the FL2, but still not as comprehensive as my WOW Delphi clone (which gives more information on the FL1 too), and obviously nowhere near as comprehensive as JLR SDD, although that's for the FL2 only.
 
Nodge68 said:
Not much really. It'll do SRS codes and clearance (as you know;) ), it'll do ABS codes and clearance, it'll do EDC codes, and some live parameters.
It'll communicate with the Ipack, but doesn't do anything with it, other than put the warning lights on.
It doesn't seem to communicate with the TCM at all, or the CCU, at least it didn't in mine.

It's better on the FL2, but still not as comprehensive as my WOW Delphi clone (which gives more information on the FL1 too), and obviously nowhere near as comprehensive as JLR SDD, although that's for the FL2 only.
Click to expand...
Yeah, plugged it in at lunchtime and looked at the different modules. Thought it was a shame it wouldn't read anything from the gearbox ECU but I'm quite pleased witth the additional functionality it has over my bluetooth obd and phone.
 
It's a good first guide carry in the boot tool. Advises of impending fuel pressure problems.
As John says, Delphi and WOW clones are better as they allow actuation of CCU functions for diagnosis.

Did yours read the abs??
 
andyfreelandy said:
As John says, Delphi and WOW clones are better as they allow actuation of CCU functions for diagnosis.
Click to expand...

Actually the WOW is pretty good on everything I've tried it on.
The even does a Proxy Alignment (don't ask) on Fiat's, which is supposedly a dealer job only.
So I'm dead impressed with the WOW/Delphi.
It is also the only code reader I've found that gives the actual injector numbers on my FL2. The JLR SDD allows the update of a replacement injector parameters, but it doesn't actually tell you what number injectors are coded, but the WOW does, so it's pretty good IMO.
 
Had my PTU replaced today by a Land Rover specialist. Bought the FL2 from a Renault main dealer and annoyingly I never noticed the noise until I'd been using it for about a week.
But all done through warranty, so happy it didn't cost me anything but time.
They replaced the start button too as that sometimes took a couple of prods...
 
Matching tyres, but Haldex service and diff oil change next on the the list...

The guy at the LR place said the PTU's they have changed are mostly on 2011/2012 models...

Mines a 2011.

And I thought the rear diffs were slightly better from 2011, but my VIN puts it just before this change.

Unless it had a rear diff under warranty...
 
Last edited:
Changed the clutch master cylinder which is a sod if you haven’t done one before,clutch pedal was on the floor,turned out to be the slave cylinder so the wife won’t be getting a visit from Santa this year:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
13
Views
650
Nodge68
Nodge68
B
Freelander TD4 Mk1 Rear Diff - Does anyone have any advice on how to replace the rear diff?
Replies
1
Views
244
Freddie17
Freddie17
R
LED side lights not working
Replies
9
Views
722
RickyFreelander
R
C
Rear wheel bearings or diff
Replies
11
Views
1K
Nodge68
Nodge68
L
Freelander 1 2005 Land Rover Freelander 1 HSE - Loose Gear Selector in Automatic Transmission
Replies
3
Views
627
Hippo
Hippo
Back
Top