What have you done to your Freelander today

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I thought I try to fix my slow driver's door window lift and at the same time have a look at the door lock mechanism, it sometimes locks but has given up the ghost for unlocking. I tried to do the door lock first - that was not an easy option! I took out the window lift mech' and gave both a clean and lube. Eventually I got it all back together - many bad words uttered! The door lock is no better and I've made the window lift even slower! Time to get some replacements I think. Can someone out there please tell me the part number for the door actuator? My FL is a '98 with the K 1.8. Is Ebay an option to get these items? They're quite expensive at the parts suppliers I usually frequent....
 
htr said:
I thought I try to fix my slow driver's door window lift and at the same time have a look at the door lock mechanism, it sometimes locks but has given up the ghost for unlocking. I tried to do the door lock first - that was not an easy option! I took out the window lift mech' and gave both a clean and lube. Eventually I got it all back together - many bad words uttered! The door lock is no better and I've made the window lift even slower! Time to get some replacements I think. Can someone out there please tell me the part number for the door actuator? My FL is a '98 with the K 1.8. Is Ebay an option to get these items? They're quite expensive at the parts suppliers I usually frequent....
Click to expand...
Dunno if the parts are the same on a 2001 1.8 - but those parts will be sitting in my parts car - don't know their condition - but if they're the same, you're welcome to them. Might be easiest to do a door swap!
 

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Over the last few months I have been chasing an issue with the temperature gauge not getting higher than a third of the way up .
Did the Renault 5 inline made no difference .
Changed reservoir cap made no difference.
Was looking at getting a new expansion bottle as there has some crazing.
Checked using a friend's Hawkeye the coolant temperature to confirm temperature sensor was working correctly .
On a day off I decided to clean out the inlet manifold that was messy .And made a big difference to drivability and fuel economy.
Then read about the turbo boost solenoid issue .
Took this off gave it a clean with electrical cleaner .
After this the temperature gauge seems to get half way within about five miles .
Fingers crossed hopefully this has sorted the ongoing temperature issue .
By the way it's an 06 td4 auto.
And the inline thermostat has been removed for a while so has no bearing on the results
 
On the subject of all things cooling related, today I decided (in a last ditch attempt to avoid having to do a thermostat change) to have a proper look at the leak around the thermostat area that occurs when my engine occasionally reaches proper running temp (rarely). It seems that the leak is coming from where the coolant rail mates with the stat housing. I also found that the bolt didn't seem overly tight. Both of these things could be great news! I nipped the bolt up a bit and will monitor over the next few weeks.

If all is well an R5 stat will be going in and I'll look forward to correct temperature running, summer and winter! happy days!

If it's not solved, does anyone know if the coolant rail o ring can be replaced with the stat/pump in situ?
 
FL1: Today I cleaned a ton of black, oily, carbon build-up out of the plastic inlet manifold thingy (if that's the correct technical term). I reckon the inlet ports were about 20% reduced by the crap sticking to the sides..
Also replaced vacuum hose from turbo to vacuum reservoir.
Took it for a run and it seems to have a bit more bottom end grunt and revs easier.
 
Front wishbones, and bushes, along with a strut bearing replaced today. Nearly all the knocks, creaks, boings and bumps gone! Just need to investigate the ARB now as something is still knocking occasionally. Can anyone advise what size jubilee clips are needed to go either side of the ARB bush clamps?
 
Yesterday did a service .
Did the fuel filter which was as all say a pain..
The original filter had the arrow pointing to the rear of the car.
This didn't seem right so the replacement has gone in pointing towards the front of the car .
Which is right????
 
Resprayed the front half of the roof as the paint was peeling due to a poor previous respray. :eek:
Not a brilliant job but good enough that you'd have to look for it to see it.
Maybe a 5-10 pace paint job. :p

Started the job yesterday and finished today but would have been finished a couple of hours sooner had the masking tape come off properly. It stuck like Sh!t to a shovel and I ended up using a petrol soaked rag to get it off.
Top tip. Don't buy cheap masking tape from Lidl!
 
Alibro said:
Resprayed the front half of the roof as the paint was peeling due to a poor previous respray. :eek:
Not a brilliant job but good enough that you'd have to look for it to see it.
Maybe a 5-10 pace paint job. :p

Started the job yesterday and finished today but would have been finished a couple of hours sooner had the masking tape come off properly. It stuck like Sh!t to a shovel and I ended up using a petrol soaked rag to get it off.
Top tip. Don't buy cheap masking tape from Lidl!
Click to expand...

Being the owner of an old wooden boat (which needs sh1t loads of painting and varnishing every year) I've learnt that masking tape should never be left on for more than a few hours, no matter how cheap or expensive.;)
 
kernowsvenski said:
Being the owner of an old wooden boat (which needs sh1t loads of painting and varnishing every year) I've learnt that masking tape should never be left on for more than a few hours, no matter how cheap or expensive.;)
Click to expand...
Maybe I should have taken it off yesterday and re-masked today but this stuff is the worst I've ever used. In the past I've left masking tape on for up to a week without any major problems getting it off..
 
Nodge68 said:
I keep thinking that I must get round to making some clamps to go around the ARB. This would avoid the funny looks that MOT tester often give, when they see the ARB being located by a hose clip.:eek:
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'd like to do something a bit more professional but it'll do, although, I don't think it's the ARB that's knocking (after a quick look today). I'll investigate proper in the week.

On a different matter @Nodge68 I did those bushes myself this week. They were a sod to get out but at least won't be pestering you about them...
carrier 1 (2).jpg carrier 2 (2).jpg
 
There's a funny video ont YouTube where a chap takes yer through the process of taping up, spraying then peeling back cheap masking tape ter reveal the tape effected the eggsisting paint work and plastics. It haddn't been on long. Luckily it weren't a freelander.
 
I bought a TD4 for £150. It had been parked up for 4 years due to a running issue. Over the past few months I have...
Carried out a full service (Oil/Air/Fuel) inc sump off and cleaned out
New battery
New ARB Drop links
New brake hoses
New cupronickel brake lines throughout
New cam sensor
Common rail sensor repair loom fitted
HP regulator O ring
5x New tyres
Created a new earth on the steering wheel for the horn switch
Front bumper off to clean out the intercooler, clean up rust
FBH pump fitted and back working with wires spliced in for remote start up
Speaker and bumper grills repainted

I'm bored of spending money and crawling underneath it now. It passed it's MOT but I still have a running faults. DTC P1260 now, which I'm inclined to believe the underbonnet fuel pump is kaput due to having a full tank of diesel put in after 4 years of close to empty. I've also had immobiliser issues as a hot start is only possible after locking then unlocking the car, which is weird. I can't get enough information on this. Always starts cold though and yes I've read post after post about hot start issues. The only thing left to try are injectors.

I just wanted a cheap Land Rover as I can't afford a Defender or a Series. Am I a mug for buying a FL?
 
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