What have you done to your Freelander today

Nodge68 · Sep 10, 2018

DCUNNINGHAM said:
Would 1 new drum cause the problem

Not unless it was faulty. Although brake components are best changed in pairs, to avoid imbalances.

DCUNNINGHAM · Sep 10, 2018

Nodge68 said:
Not unless it was faulty. Although brake components are best changed in pairs, to avoid imbalances.

I have just been for a run round and when I press the brake I can here a knocking noise on rear OS so I will investigate the prob later
I'm just going to strip ball joints on front

GrumpyGel · Sep 10, 2018

DCUNNINGHAM said:
I've just ordered 2 outer one's the arms are pretty new also service brake is fluctuating on offside rear don't know what that's all about
I thought if owt it would fail on the rear bushes but you never know with mot

If the arms are new, did they come with ball joints? If so, they didn't last long by the sounds of it. Also maybe the ball joints may not be riveted in the same way as Nodge describes but also presumably the bush would not be so problematical meaning a complete (OEM) arm and joint might be a good idea.

Even if you don't investigate the actual fault with the back brakes yet, I think I'd be taking both drums off and checking the integrity of the parts inside to make sure it is not something that will all of a sudden become something catastrophic. There have been numerous threads on here where cars loose all braking ability due to faults with a rear brake.

DCUNNINGHAM · Sep 10, 2018

Wish bones off both sides
Ground the studs off on 1 side and smacked through with big hammer
Repainted once dry I will fit ball joints and
Replace in the morning then check the rear brakes

DCUNNINGHAM · Sep 10, 2018

GrumpyGel said:
If the arms are new, did they come with ball joints? If so, they didn't last long by the sounds of it. Also maybe the ball joints may not be riveted in the same way as Nodge describes but also presumably the bush would not be so problematical meaning a complete (OEM) arm and joint might be a good idea.

Even if you don't investigate the actual fault with the back brakes yet, I think I'd be taking both drums off and checking the integrity of the parts inside to make sure it is not something that will all of a sudden become something catastrophic. There have been numerous threads on here where cars loose all braking ability due to faults with a rear brake.

I think there is something broken in the brake drum I could hear a knocking noise on rear when braking

Nodge68 · Sep 10, 2018

DCUNNINGHAM said:
I think there is something broken in the brake drum I could hear a knocking noise on rear when braking

There could be a broken shoe hold pin, those do rust an fail.
My nearside drum has started making a scuffing sound when I turn right. So I've go some investigation and replacing to do before the MOT.

Madmustang · Sep 10, 2018

DCUNNINGHAM said:
Failed mot on lower ball joints L&R can these be bought seperate from the wish bone or will I need the full arm

Yes but you have to drill the old ones out not worth the hassel (Unless you like hassel?)

Madmustang · Sep 10, 2018

Nodge68 said:
Yes the joint is available separately, but the old joint is riveted to the arm. The rivets need drilling out and the replacement joint is bolted into place. I just change the arm, as it cane save time . However the rear large bush can be seized solid to the arm, which makes removing the arm challenging.

But eaiser if you remove the housing as well as its just two very long bolts

DCUNNINGHAM · Sep 11, 2018

Madmustang said:
But eaiser if you remove the housing as well as its just two very long bolts

Done them mate just need to put back on
The car

DCUNNINGHAM · Sep 11, 2018

I've removed the rear hub all I can see is that when I press the brake is a little catch on the brake shoe and it keeps turning the adjuster wheel sort of making the brake adjustment tighter

Nodge68 · Sep 11, 2018

DCUNNINGHAM said:
all I can see is that when I press the brake is a little catch on the brake shoe and it keeps turning the adjuster wheel sort of making the brake adjustment tighter

That's what's supposed to happen. You'll nees to back the adjuster off, before putting the drum back on.

Make sure both shoes still have there spring clips, holding them down to the backplate.

DCUNNINGHAM · Sep 11, 2018

Nodge68 said:
That's what's supposed to happen. You'll nees to back the adjuster off, before putting the drum back on.

Make sure both shoes still have there spring clips, holding them down to the backplate.

I've just ordered a new spring kit and brake cylinder as that is only operating on 1 shoe other than that I can't find anything wrong so why it's fluctuating is beyond me

LUKBENPHI · Sep 11, 2018

Regretting selling it

Yes I know it was bit of a lemon for those that remeber it and my little issues with it but Ishould of kept it as I'd had the VCU done and the injector harness upgrade and all the rear diff bushes

Anoying thing is its only done 1500 miles since I sold it nealry 2 years ago according to the mot history so its not being used much

Colthebrummie · Sep 11, 2018

LUKBENPHI said:
Regretting selling it

Yes I know it was bit of a lemon for those that remeber it and my little issues with it but Ishould of kept it as I'd had the VCU done and the injector harness upgrade and all the rear diff bushes

Anoying thing is its only done 1500 miles since I sold it nealry 2 years ago according to the mot history so its not being used much

Don't look back, only forward, get another one.

Col

freelandy2004 · Sep 11, 2018

just ordered a set of 225 65 17 Geolandars G015 and some ebc green stuff pads for the front

Rich in Vancouver · Sep 12, 2018

Feeling happy and relieved today. It has been 170km since I changed the thermostat and the rad hoses on the V6.
When I got home today I pulled the engine cover and found the vee of the engine bone dry.

I hope the next project ends as well. Yesterday I ordered a new L/H cylinder head an oil pump and some other miscellaneous bits for the engine
in the hopes that I can get rid of my elusive tappety noise. If this doesn't do it i'm going to have to live with it!

LUKBENPHI · Sep 12, 2018

Rich in Vancouver said:
Feeling happy and relieved today. It has been 170km since I changed the thermostat and the rad hoses on the V6.
When I got home today I pulled the engine cover and found the vee of the engine bone dry.
I hope the next project ends as well. Yesterday I ordered a new L/H cylinder head an oil pump and some other miscellaneous bits for the engine
in the hopes that I can get rid of my elusive tappety noise. If this doesn't do it i'm going to have to live with it!

Vis Valves on their way out? they get a bit tappety when starting to fail,

LUKBENPHI · Sep 12, 2018

Colthebrummie said:
Don't look back, only forward, get another one.

Col

Funds wont alow currently and pondering saving up for a FL2 after wedding is paid off

DCUNNINGHAM · Sep 12, 2018

Fitted new brake cylinder, new brake pipe , new shoe kit , and drum today for the retest on Saturday morning .
There is nothing else I can do now hopefully the brakes arnt still fluctuating

Rich in Vancouver · Sep 13, 2018

LUKBENPHI said:
Vis Valves on their way out? they get a bit tappety when starting to fail,

It's not the VIS valves. I've replaced them with uprated ones by Stocktake off the 75/ZT forum and have had the intake apart to make sure the valves
are all OK. Using a stethoscope it sounds like the noise is coming from #2 or the #4 portion of the head. I'm hoping that the new head will cure it.

What have you done to your Freelander today

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Attachments

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads