What have you done to your Freelander today

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Refitted 35,000 engine, genuine clutch, LUK Slave... Cheap Master Cylinder....
Fitted new brakes all round..
fired up the car and cant engage 5th or reverse gear..
new gear box coming tomorrow!!!
what had I done to it since I owned it...... almost fully rebuilt the entire car.... every except the shell has done no more than 40,000 miles.
the shell... well.. that's done 125,000
 
The modifications begin at last.

List of small jobs to do on her but I'd been waiting to fit this a while.





Fantastic bit of kit really really solid. Got it off amazon with a Xmas voucher.



Will be a certain to need pulling out at some stage. Just gotta await my shackles and mud tyres
 
MacGyver said:
The modifications begin at last.

List of small jobs to do on her but I'd been waiting to fit this a while.





Fantastic bit of kit really really solid. Got it off amazon with a Xmas voucher.



Will be a certain to need pulling out at some stage. Just gotta await my shackles and mud tyres
Click to expand...


You are not planning on using that as a recovery point are you?
 
The point where the strap will be attached sticks out a good 10 or 12 inches behind the points where the bar is bolted to the chassis. Thats an awful lot of leverage to bend the towbar.
Chances are it will probably be fine, but there is also a real chance of damaging the towbar or even ripping it right off - the towbar is not designed at all to take snatch loading.
Ideally he should have two heavy duty shackles bolted through the chassis rails and use a short strap between both points to spread the load and the main recovery strap fixed to the short strap.
snatch_strap.jpg
 
dave21478 said:
The point where the strap will be attached sticks out a good 10 or 12 inches behind the points where the bar is bolted to the chassis. Thats an awful lot of leverage to bend the towbar.
Chances are it will probably be fine, but there is also a real chance of damaging the towbar or even ripping it right off - the towbar is not designed at all to take snatch loading.
Ideally he should have two heavy duty shackles bolted through the chassis rails and use a short strap between both points to spread the load and the main recovery strap fixed to the short strap.
snatch_strap.jpg
Click to expand...

I thought the FL1 had 2 points underneath for that? No need to use the towbar or add anything
 
Today I replaced the nasty aftermarket shark fin aerial with the correct factory offering. This was made more difficult because the small factory hole had been enlarged to 15mm across :(
I made up a washer arrangement to hold it tight. The proper aerial definitely looks better and receives a decent signal too!
 
Kayos said:
I thought the FL1 had 2 points underneath for that? No need to use the towbar or add anything
Click to expand...

The through bumper tow rings are designed to take recovery loadings. From memory they are rated 4 tons, which is enough for most recovery situations. Whilst using the above setup is technically correct, you'll struggle to find anywhere solid enough to fix them on a Freelander chassis.
 
I was thinking of having my TB mod'd to take a receiver and add a tow attachment or a recovery point. The rear chassis rails are tucked up high and make fitting that two point set-up tricky. I see on my rear bumper that there is a slot very similar to the front arrangement where a recovery loop may have been fitted. It's close to where the exhaust tail pipe turns down. Could this have been removed when the TB was fitted?
 
Yes, my std towing eye bolted both sides of the rail and didn't leave room for the towbar, when I go back to the scrappies I need to see if the there is a difference with the ones fitted to cars with a towbar
 
htr said:
I was thinking of having my TB mod'd to take a receiver and add a tow attachment or a recovery point. The rear chassis rails are tucked up high and make fitting that two point set-up tricky. I see on my rear bumper that there is a slot very similar to the front arrangement where a recovery loop may have been fitted. It's close to where the exhaust tail pipe turns down. Could this have been removed when the TB was fitted?
Click to expand...
I would be quite happy with a recovery ring added to each side of the tow bars cross member. However I think you would need to add a hoop to contact to bolts on both sides of the chassis for maximum strength.
In answer to your hole in the bumper. Yes that is where the factory tow ring should be. It should still be there too as the tow bar shouldn't affect it, well a bar to factory specification that is. I've fitted several Freelander tow bars, leaving the tow ring in place every time. I'll post some pictures of how it all goes together when I fit my tow bar.
 
Finally put the EGR delete kit on my '56 Adventurer. Seems a bit more tractable at low revs, sounds "cleaner", if that makes any sense. Hopefully it'll help fuel consumption on my commute. Time will tell.
 
replaced the 3 diff mounts as i was getting banging noise when changing low gears,but fine now no more banging noise drives great with the new mounts fitted,i did ask at garage for a quote to replace the 3 mounts for me and they told me it would be 4 1/2 hours labour charge but the job only took me 2 hours from start to finish and im not a mechanic and only have a basic tool kit.
 
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