Tiny1000
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- 242
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- Reading, Berkshire
Fitted new rear light guards
What have you done to your Freelander today
- Thread starter Freelaner
- Start date
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Painted the top of my instrument cowl black as per dave21478 and krisboats.
Its a slippery slope on the way to doing the whole dash!!
NeedleNose
Active Member
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- 227
- Location
- Plymouth Area
Ever so slightly tempted, but I think too much faff.
Dieseldo01
New Member
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- 71
I've done my whole dash [emoji6]
Dieseldo01
New Member
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- 71
Have you decided which one you're keeping yet? Shimmed my top mount like you suggested as well, 2mm aluminium insert has tightened it up pretty well ready until i can get an upper polybush. Got my rear door lock in as well, it was considerably easier than the front one!
Dismantled and painted my air vent grills as well so they aren't a putrid green colour anymore. Did my scratched heater dial facia plate as well to tidy it up a bit.
Dismantled and painted my air vent grills as well so they aren't a putrid green colour anymore. Did my scratched heater dial facia plate as well to tidy it up a bit.
Last edited:
B34R
Active Member
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- 410
Changed the diff center mount, took 20 minutes and four bolts.
Not quite sure why people struggle with this one, jack the car up, take out the (uk) drivers side rear bolt entirely, take the three bolts out of the front mount. Insert jack handle between front of diff and front mount subframe anchor, lever nose of diff over to passenger side. Pull old bushing, insert new and button it all up... no need to pull the prop or anything?
But yeah, the front mount was completely cheesed:
So much so that I could actually move the core of it to the outside by hand with little in the way of force.
New one in new home:
Not quite sure why people struggle with this one, jack the car up, take out the (uk) drivers side rear bolt entirely, take the three bolts out of the front mount. Insert jack handle between front of diff and front mount subframe anchor, lever nose of diff over to passenger side. Pull old bushing, insert new and button it all up... no need to pull the prop or anything?
But yeah, the front mount was completely cheesed:
So much so that I could actually move the core of it to the outside by hand with little in the way of force.
New one in new home:
pardec
Active Member
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- 993
- Location
- South Manchester- North Devon
Changed the diff center mount, took 20 minutes and four bolts.
Not quite sure why people struggle with this one, jack the car up, take out the (uk) drivers side rear bolt entirely, take the three bolts out of the front mount. Insert jack handle between front of diff and front mount subframe anchor, lever nose of diff over to passenger side. Pull old bushing, insert new and button it all up... no need to pull the prop or anything?
But yeah, the front mount was completely cheesed:
So much so that I could actually move the core of it to the outside by hand with little in the way of force.
New one in new home:
This is my next job.
When you say "take out the (uk) drivers side rear bolt entirely" which bolt do you mean?
B34R
Active Member
- Posts
- 410
There are three diff mounts on the rear diff.
One at the front, two at the back.
Take the big bolt out of the mount at the back on the drivers side first, will allow you to swing the nose of the diff around when you take the old front mount off.
DastardlyDan
Active Member
- Posts
- 287
mocked up the new grille badge... now to cobble something together to give it a secure mounting, in place of the plastic bar
B34R
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- 410
GrumpyGel
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- 26,545
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
Continued my investigation into steam/smoke still floating around the engine bay on the L Series after the leak back pipes gave up. I wanted to have a look at the bottom of the engine to make sure all was OK down there, so went to take the under tray off. I immediately noticed that there was a lot of oil around the drivers side subframe bolts. I'd checked the oil last week and it was OK - maybe dropped a little amount - I checked it again and it had lost a lot and was well below the min mark!
Once the under tray was off it was obvious something was up, so I searched L Series oil leak issues and the 2 main ones appear to be corroded pipes and leaking/loose oil filters. The pipes looked good, but the filter was indeed loose. Its been on 6 months and only now worked its way loose! So, tightening of the filter and a couple of litres of oil and hopefully she's all good again.
Once again I only have rave comments about the L Series, it could have lost all its oil and died - but it has a soul and doesn't want to die, so told me that something was up by spewing diesel out of the leak back pipes to make me examine the engine! Darn site cleverer than my Springer Spaniel! Also cleverer than designing an undertray that hides oil leaks.
Once the under tray was off it was obvious something was up, so I searched L Series oil leak issues and the 2 main ones appear to be corroded pipes and leaking/loose oil filters. The pipes looked good, but the filter was indeed loose. Its been on 6 months and only now worked its way loose! So, tightening of the filter and a couple of litres of oil and hopefully she's all good again.
Once again I only have rave comments about the L Series, it could have lost all its oil and died - but it has a soul and doesn't want to die, so told me that something was up by spewing diesel out of the leak back pipes to make me examine the engine! Darn site cleverer than my Springer Spaniel! Also cleverer than designing an undertray that hides oil leaks.
Tiny1000
Active Member
- Posts
- 242
- Location
- Reading, Berkshire
Cleaned out my intake manifold, I just couldn't believe how much crap came out of it, so I've temperory blocked up the EGR to stop the soot, until I get a bypass valve and I've ordered a pcv valve to stop the oil....Just one thing to mention if you do this make sure you have plenty of old clothes or rags and DON'T WEAR YOUR SHOES INDOORS
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
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- 26,545
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
Cleaned out my intake manifold, I just couldn't believe how much crap came out of it, so I've temperory blocked up the EGR to stop the soot, until I get a bypass valve and I've ordered a pcv valve to stop the oil....Just one thing to mention if you do this make sure you have plenty of old clothes or rags and DON'T WEAR YOUR SHOES INDOORS
We've been trying to clean up spots on our carpet since I did that same job last weekend
Tiny1000
Active Member
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- 242
- Location
- Reading, Berkshire
I got it eveywhere.....Used some graffiti remover to clean the carpet then steam cleaned it, it's all over the patio the jet wash and the hose, god knows where else
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
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- 26,545
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
You should mount them poking out of the bonnet with some bent back 'metal' as if they've been blown out of the engine!
Dieseldo01
New Member
- Posts
- 71
Have you decided which one you're keeping yet? Shimmed my top mount like you suggested as well, 2mm aluminium insert has tightened it up pretty well ready until i can get an upper polybush. Got my rear door lock in as well, it was considerably easier than the front one!
Dismantled and painted my air vent grills as well so they aren't a putrid green colour anymore. Did my scratched heater dial facia plate as well to tidy it up a bit.
Looking good
DastardlyDan
Active Member
- Posts
- 287
But that'd mean removing the 10mm thick emblem? :lol:
Also been told I can have the old half-tyres in storage at work, to make some "nudge bars" from
openfold
Member
- Posts
- 84
- Location
- Fareham, Hampshire
Made a bike carrier with the leftover steel tube from my roof rack. Bolts behind the spare wheel and the shaft comes out the centre cap hole.
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