If you have an auto, then sit in it with the doors closed when it gets dark (don't need to be locked) and look at the gear indication LED next to the shifter. It will be glowing dimly when the BECM is awake, and should extingush after a couple of minutes. If it doesn't go out, then something is keeping the BECM awake (and drawing around 1A of power, vs 30mA ish when it's sleeping). If it goes out and then comes back on again within 5-10mins, then the BECM is sleeping and something is then waking it up (usually RF).
A 95AH battery, if fully charged and healthy should in theory be able to deliver 95A of current for 1hour - or 1A of current for 95 hours (in reality it never works out like this! - especially in a P38) - but if your BECM is sleeping, but being woken regularly, then it could easily explain why the battery is flat in 5 days. If BECM is awake all the time, it can go flat in as quick as 2-3 days to the point where it wont start the vehicle.
If you get the shifter LED going out and coming back on again, then you can do as suggested by brianp38dse and pull the antenna wire off the RF receiver and see if that makes a difference. If you want to rule in/out RF altogether then you can disconnect the main power/signal connector to the RF receiver and then repeat the test. If the BECM then sleeps, and doesn't wake up again in the same period that it would before, then you've found your issue. If it still doesn't sleep then something else is causing it (either something aftermarket, dodgy door microswitch etc - there are a number of activation inputs that will keep a BECM awake).
If it does boil down to RF - also ad brianp38dse mentions, there are a few options now, including the RF filter myself and another P38 owner have developed, or the second fob/relay idea to be able to disable the rf receiver
I'd be sitting in it to see if it sleeps first... if it's a manual, then this test won't work, and you'll have to go with a different test - either with a DC clamp meter around the main +ve cable, or a multimeter in series with the power or ground wire to measure current draw.
Battery - I only recommend the MF31-1000 range (Battery Megastore has them branded as Hankook at the moment) or a Yuasa 664SHD (or other type 664). They're the biggest that will fit in the battery tray, and are about 115-120Ah, 1000CCA units.
EDIT - I re-read and see it's a 2000 Thor - so should be an auto, and you can do the 'sit in it' test...