What do you think is this head worth saving?

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Quick update, I cleaned the block this morning, I did not manage to pick the head up this week due to work, boo. Will re-fit it next ween weather permitting.

Clean Head l00001.jpg
 
Looking at the bores I reckon the old girl has done a good few miles?
That an early motor as well, look at the casting stamp, right back side of drivers side cyl head for date
Shine a torch down all the head bolt holes and make sure theres no oil/water in them as will effect head bolt torque.
 
The picture looks light because its dark, honest I know what I mean, the top of the pistons are a lot darker than in the picture. I'll adjust the image later.

The engine does have a number stamped at the back, I might get a copy to see what it is, it did not use any oil before I had the head off just the water issue, which I hope this cures or I'm at a loss TBH.

I will be sucking any oil or water out of the bolt holes so I don't crack the block when I put it back together. Although this is my second car I'm missing it a lot as the other one is not practical for the dogs.

I'll do the wiring I needed to do today and also get the heater element out. I'll order all the parts to refit it tomorrow from Paddocks.
 
Ok, its all going back on today.... I'll post some pictures up, I did get my injectors cleaned as well, although I did not get a report back with them which always make me think hmmm.
 
Ok, cleaned the oil off which I put on the block to ensure the all the surfaces were cleaned and cleaned out the threads. The head is back on, I did use a torque wrench and dial guage. I'm a little worried one of the M10 bolts was creaking when dialed in, all the others were ok. Hopefully its not turned itself around, but it did not snap.

I did have the injectors cleaned as well. Only have the ancilleries to put on tomorrow, after I have redone the heater array.

Refitting l00001.jpg
Refitting l00002.jpg
Refitting l00003.jpg
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Refitting l00005.jpg
 
SpaceDawg said:
I have to do mine soon with new rubbers when you know how to do it let me know ;-)
Click to expand...

i have no clue, to be honest i don't think its a one man job, trying to hold the door up and tighten bolts was probably my downfall. I found this online though which i am going to try
There are several points of adjustment in the doors:

  • Vertical placement - This is achieved by loosening the A-pillar hinge bolts and shifting the door up and down, quite a lot of rear-end movement can be achieved through this. Obviously the door needs to be in line with the rest of the bodywork, ie. the 'curve' in the panel should line up with that of the rear tub and bulkhead. Worn hinges will make this damn-near impossible.
  • Closure distance - This can be changed by moving the striker pin in and out relative to the side of the vehicle. Effectively means the door has to close further in in order to latch. Should be adjusted so that the door is flush with the neighboring panels.
  • Front edge shimming - This is adjusted by fitting shims between the door hinge and the door itself. It affects the in/out position of the leading edge of the door. Quite often if you just bolt on the hing it sits proud of the A-pillar by a fair way, these shims will bring it back in lin so that it is flush, same as the rear edge.
Obviously this only works if the bodywork is set up correctly. I do it by measuring the door width, adding 12mm for a 6mm door gap alright, and then setting the bodywork to that gap. Making sure the A-pillar and tub leading edge are both vertical and more importantly parallel to one another is also very important.

An extra complication can arise during alignment whereby the lower half of the door seems to fit fine, yet there are still gaps around the top edge of the frame.

The popular, yet hardly official method, is to bend the top of the door inward. The way I was shown is certainly very crude, but it seems to work.

Wind down the window all the way. Open the door and wedge it open a little with some 1-2" thick pieces of timber along the rear edge, (careful positioning of said lumps of wood is necessary to avoid damage to your paintwork). Then using your own body weight, lean on the top of the door hard enough to bend it in a little. You do have to push quite hard, unless of course you have rotten doors, in which case this tweak isn't really going to help! Then close the door and see whether the gaps have improved. If not give it a little more 'adjustment' until you are happy.

Fitting the hinges to the doors first is apparently the best way.
 
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