What did you do with your Range Rover today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
iSanttu said:
Just got the AC recharged, still not blowing cold. Cool air, but not cold. :(
Maybe the compressor or the blend motor/distribution flap is bad.

Got any tips?
Click to expand...
Check the aircon pipes under the bonnet, one should be very hot the other freezing cold. If they are OK could be a blend motor problem, I'm assuming it's a P38. If the cold pipe is not very cold, check the electric fans work and that the condensor is not full of crap stopping the airflow.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Have you got the little "book" warning sigh on the hevac heater until display?
Click to expand...
i do not.


Datatek said:
Check the aircon pipes under the bonnet, one should be very hot the other freezing cold. If they are OK could be a blend motor problem, I'm assuming it's a P38. If the cold pipe is not very cold, check the electric fans work and that the condensor is not full of crap stopping the airflow.
Click to expand...
You are correct its a p38.
I'll start with that, i have moved the trans oil cooler in front of the ac condencer.
Never heard the fans turning on tho.
 
If the AC pipes are properly hot & cold, also check the Aspirator fan next to the clock, plus the Evaporator & Heater Core sensors.

Evap sensor is pushed into the right side of the heater box near the bulkhead. Heater core sensor is clipped onto one of the coolant pipes.

If blend motors are working & AC pipe is properly cold, sensor issues can cause the HEVAC to adjust incorrectly.
 
Good luck with the air condition!

I just used my lunch break to fix the rear bumper cover. The new exhaust gets hot, and it almost melted the olastic cover, enough for it to come loose at the clued / pressed in metal bits that screw on to the bracket on the bumper. Used some strong two component clue to clue it back on, the new clips, well, the bumper cover doesn't really snap into those. We'll see if it holds, wouldn't be the first one I loose somewhere!

Also studied the workshop manual. No mention of full harness replacements, but stripping the interior down enough to get access seems easy enough. Already all of that twice, with the exception of the top dashboard and instruments. Comes next once the carpets are all in, and the interior doesn't serve as a storage for assorted parts anymore!
 
@iSanttu Might be worth putting this AC issue into a separate thread. Do you know if they used the correct quantity of R134a ?

1752161675686.png
 
Well i made progress on my suspension rattle. When i replaced the arb drop link, the "special washer" was missing, so i didn't use one. It was fine for a while but i think it started to rattle - just fitted a washer and the rattle has gone...

Well.. 90% gone. It's only on the biggest potholes now. I'm not sure what's left to replace. The tie rod seems tight enough. If i have on the arb, it flexes, but no knocks or rattles
 
kermit_rr said:
Well i made progress on my suspension rattle. When i replaced the arb drop link, the "special washer" was missing, so i didn't use one. It was fine for a while but i think it started to rattle - just fitted a washer and the rattle has gone...

Well.. 90% gone. It's only on the biggest potholes now. I'm not sure what's left to replace. The tie rod seems tight enough. If i have on the arb, it flexes, but no knocks or rattles
Click to expand...
Check the tightness, a lot of the big Landy stuff needs to be vain popping tight. Especially on the multi link stuff 👍
 
Last edited:
Mark Piercy said:
Check the tightness, a lot of the big Landy stuff needs to vain popping tight. Especially on the multi link stuff 👍
Click to expand...
I did everything to the proper tightness apart from the 2 ball joints on the hub but thought they were "tight enough" 🤔
I did reuse a bolt for the arm>chassis on one of the arms because i forgot to buy a new one 🤔🫣🙄
 
Currently awaiting rescue in a car park sweating my tits off.

Drove into town, about 20 miles and all dandy. Did what I needed to about an hour later and jump in the car.. and it’s just cranks, no attempt at firing at all. Great.

Booster pack does help coax it into life either so I think the only real option is to buy get it recovered.
 
pwood999 said:
@iSanttu Might be worth putting this AC issue into a separate thread. Do you know if they used the correct quantity of R134a ?

View attachment 345069
Click to expand...
I am sure, i actually did it my self, hehe. :D
Leak test and all, everything was fine.

I work at a collision repair shop.

Clutch works, blend motors move, cleaned the condenser. (fans have not kicked in tho)
I quess the pump is bad, since the pipes don't feel hot or cold.

I might try fiddling with the pressure switches next, if i get it to work.
If not, i can live without ac. It not that hot here in Finland :)
 
P38Seb said:
Currently awaiting rescue in a car park sweating my tits off.

Drove into town, about 20 miles and all dandy. Did what I needed to about an hour later and jump in the car.. and it’s just cranks, no attempt at firing at all. Great.

Booster pack does help coax it into life either so I think the only real option is to buy get it recovered.
Click to expand...

Diesel or petrol?

Get out lock it go have a fag/cup of tea. come back and all will be fine ;).

J
 
iSanttu said:
I am sure, i actually did it my self, hehe. :D
Leak test and all, everything was fine.

I work at a collision repair shop.

Clutch works, blend motors move, cleaned the condenser. (fans have not kicked in tho)
I quess the pump is bad, since the pipes don't feel hot or cold.

I might try fiddling with the pressure switches next, if i get it to work.
If not, i can live without ac. It not that hot here in Finland :)
Click to expand...

If you dont have a "very" hot pipe and a cold pipe, if the compressor clutch is in I doubt its the pressure switch as this would stop the clutch pulling in.

So compressor, Expansion valve?

J
 
kermit_rr said:
I did everything to the proper tightness apart from the 2 ball joints on the hub but thought they were "tight enough" 🤔
I did reuse a bolt for the arm>chassis on one of the arms because i forgot to buy a new one 🤔🫣🙄
Click to expand...
went over one of those awful yellow and black (or is it black and yellow!?) rubber speed bumps... no clunk/rattle 😣
 
P38Seb said:
Derv. Went and had a walk round a classic car museum in the town and now I’m just waiting for it to cool enough to try a cold start..
Click to expand...
Pop into a shop, buy a bottle of cold water and pour it over the top of fuel injection pump. Over heat sensor just under cover and can stop it firing when too hot. water trick can cool it down enough to make it fire up
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Range Rover Vogue Heating Issue (Year 2007)
Replies
10
Views
1K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
L
Range Rover l320 best all terrain rims and tires
Replies
11
Views
817
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
I
P38A Back again, Newbie P38
Replies
6
Views
734
marjon
marjon
W
l322 range rover braking issue
Replies
6
Views
1K
roythebus
R
J
2015 Range Rover SportTDV6 3.0L Diesel Auto Reliability
2
Replies
27
Views
3K
roythebus
R
Back
Top