- Posts
- 6,249
- Location
- North Manchester
Mine has told me off for leaving it on the drive and going on holiday for a week by presenting me with another SRS light
Possibly, but gut feel is software/logic.. but i suppose that's impacted by hardware ie bad connections and the expected signalsAnother "quality" connector corroded somewhere
It was blowing icy cold just fine in the summer but kept misting up last winter too so it's not gas level.Has it got enough refrigerant in the system? do the recirculation flaps open & close properly? is the pollution sensor defective?
Does the outside temp sensor work kermitude?It was blowing icy cold just fine in the summer but kept misting up last winter too so it's not gas level.
You can hear the recirc flaps move and the change in blow noise so assume they work ok.
Pretty sure the pollution sensor doesn't work because it doesn't do anything when set to auto so i leave it switched off
It shows the correct temp on the dash yepDoes the outside temp sensor work kermitude?
It could still be refrigerant (not gas!) level is low as the pressure is temperature dependent. Refrigerant needs to change state from liquid to gas and back again to work, if there is insufficient quantity to do this, then the pressures to force a state change cannot be generated so you can end up with gas only in the whole system in cold weather and gas & liquid in hot weather.It was blowing icy cold just fine in the summer but kept misting up last winter too so it's not gas level.
You can hear the recirc flaps move and the change in blow noise so assume they work ok.
Pretty sure the pollution sensor doesn't work because it doesn't do anything when set to auto so i leave it switched off
Do you mean that on order to check, you need to evacuate and recharge the system, not just measure the pressures? I assumed the machine they plug in would take ambient temp into account.It could still be refrigerant (not gas!) level is low as the pressure is temperature dependent. Refrigerant needs to change state from liquid to gas and back again to work, if there is insufficient quantity to do this, then the pressures to force a state change cannot be generated so you can end up with gas only in the whole system in cold weather and gas & liquid in hot weather.
This is why refrigerant systems are charged by weight, not pressure.
The only other things that come to mind are the air vents at the rear (to draw air out when moving) are blocked or restricted - or you have water ingress.
My cabin heater officially has a mind of its own. Windows were all steamed up so i turned the fan to max as it was on auto and blowing at a 'medium' speed and pressed the screen vent selector.
Fan speed didn't increase when set to max, so turned to it min (one orange dot) fan speed still didn't change. Pressed auto and it dropped to its usual minimum/off setting. Manually selected max again and this time it worked! Changing to min also worked.
It's completely woof woof barking mad.
If it was a computer I'd re-flash the firmware but it's a land rover so I'll just put up and call it a feature
I know what you mean but no. Most of the time the fan will be on minimum even when the engine is hot and the cabin temp is lower than the desired selection. I can be driving and realise.. wow.. the temp is dropping.. it's frigging cold! So have to set it to fully manual and it warms back up againI've noticed the Jag won't go full speed unless the temperature is up or it is on the defrost setting. Could be the same?
Not blocked.. hadn't actually considered if it was working.. I'll have to shine a torch and have a lookseeThat's not right - is the little fan behind the thermistor working OK? is the airflow blocked by a build-up of dust and bits of skin etc.?
Exactly that.Do you mean that on order to check, you need to evacuate and recharge the system, not just measure the pressures?
Remember when you were advised it was most likely 'too good to be true' at that price? Honestly, I can't ever see you getting off the 'buy it, reject it' merry-go-round unless you either go for a different vehicle where there will be decent examples in your price range, or raise your funding level.My latest purchase throwing up "low coolant" warning. My indie garage report shows coolant leak from bell housing area and oil in coolant, suspect oil cooler needs replacing. A job for the seller to sort out. Pity because the car drives really nicely.
If it's low then it shouldn't be running? I would see this in sdd?Exactly that.
Yes, I'm beginning to think along those lines myself! I'd expect to do brakes and rubber mounts on most vehicles at about 130000 miles unless they've already been done. With the state of today's roads what else can be expected? My state pension and life expectancy are against me upping my funding level! I'll see what the seller comes up with.Remember when you were advised it was most likely 'too good to be true' at that price? Honestly, I can't ever see you getting off the 'buy it, reject it' merry-go-round unless you either go for a different vehicle where there will be decent examples in your price range, or raise your funding level.
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!