What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Another "quality" connector corroded somewhere :rolleyes:
Possibly, but gut feel is software/logic.. but i suppose that's impacted by hardware ie bad connections and the expected signals

Pretty sure the ac drains a clear and there's no obvious leaks, all seems dry inside so dunno why it mists so bad
 
Has it got enough refrigerant in the system? do the recirculation flaps open & close properly? is the pollution sensor defective?
It was blowing icy cold just fine in the summer but kept misting up last winter too so it's not gas level.
You can hear the recirc flaps move and the change in blow noise so assume they work ok.
Pretty sure the pollution sensor doesn't work because it doesn't do anything when set to auto so i leave it switched off
 
It was blowing icy cold just fine in the summer but kept misting up last winter too so it's not gas level.
You can hear the recirc flaps move and the change in blow noise so assume they work ok.
Pretty sure the pollution sensor doesn't work because it doesn't do anything when set to auto so i leave it switched off
Does the outside temp sensor work kermitude? 🤔
 
It was blowing icy cold just fine in the summer but kept misting up last winter too so it's not gas level.
You can hear the recirc flaps move and the change in blow noise so assume they work ok.
Pretty sure the pollution sensor doesn't work because it doesn't do anything when set to auto so i leave it switched off
It could still be refrigerant (not gas!) level is low as the pressure is temperature dependent. Refrigerant needs to change state from liquid to gas and back again to work, if there is insufficient quantity to do this, then the pressures to force a state change cannot be generated so you can end up with gas only in the whole system in cold weather and gas & liquid in hot weather.
This is why refrigerant systems are charged by weight, not pressure.

The only other things that come to mind are the air vents at the rear (to draw air out when moving) are blocked or restricted - or you have water ingress.
 
It could still be refrigerant (not gas!) level is low as the pressure is temperature dependent. Refrigerant needs to change state from liquid to gas and back again to work, if there is insufficient quantity to do this, then the pressures to force a state change cannot be generated so you can end up with gas only in the whole system in cold weather and gas & liquid in hot weather.
This is why refrigerant systems are charged by weight, not pressure.

The only other things that come to mind are the air vents at the rear (to draw air out when moving) are blocked or restricted - or you have water ingress.
Do you mean that on order to check, you need to evacuate and recharge the system, not just measure the pressures? I assumed the machine they plug in would take ambient temp into account.
How would you check the vents? Are they still in the rear pillars?
There's no water/damp that i can see in the boot, no condensation on the spare tyre etc and dry under the floor mats - i would expect a bit of damp there if there was water under the carpets?
 
My cabin heater officially has a mind of its own. Windows were all steamed up so i turned the fan to max as it was on auto and blowing at a 'medium' speed and pressed the screen vent selector.
Fan speed didn't increase when set to max, so turned to it min (one orange dot) fan speed still didn't change. Pressed auto and it dropped to its usual minimum/off setting. Manually selected max again and this time it worked! Changing to min also worked.
It's completely woof woof barking mad.

If it was a computer I'd re-flash the firmware 🙄 but it's a land rover so I'll just put up and call it a feature 😬

I've noticed the Jag won't go full speed unless the temperature is up or it is on the defrost setting. Could be the same?
 
Fitted the replacement wing mirror motor actuator to the passenger side wing mirror. Fought with the sh!te eBay replacement glass for about an hour, gave up and put the original glass back on in about 2secs. But then when I got in the vehicle to test out the auto-dip when in reverse…the mirror tilted up instead of down! Tried to manually move it, same thing. Like a fighter jet joystick. But the driver side mirror reacted as normal. Thought I’d connected the cable into the motor the wrong way around. Mirror glass off. New part unscrewed and prized off. But the cable only goes in one way. Was scratching my head.

Then checked the order of the part. And it’s a driver’s side part!🤦🏼‍♂️

Moron of the Day award for me! Hope I can exchange the part.
 
I've noticed the Jag won't go full speed unless the temperature is up or it is on the defrost setting. Could be the same?
I know what you mean but no. Most of the time the fan will be on minimum even when the engine is hot and the cabin temp is lower than the desired selection. I can be driving and realise.. wow.. the temp is dropping.. it's frigging cold! So have to set it to fully manual and it warms back up again
I did check the live data from the cabin temp sensor and that seemed pretty much ok
 
My latest purchase throwing up "low coolant" warning. My indie garage report shows coolant leak from bell housing area and oil in coolant, suspect oil cooler needs replacing. A job for the seller to sort out. Pity because the car drives really nicely.
 
My latest purchase throwing up "low coolant" warning. My indie garage report shows coolant leak from bell housing area and oil in coolant, suspect oil cooler needs replacing. A job for the seller to sort out. Pity because the car drives really nicely.
Remember when you were advised it was most likely 'too good to be true' at that price? Honestly, I can't ever see you getting off the 'buy it, reject it' merry-go-round unless you either go for a different vehicle where there will be decent examples in your price range, or raise your funding level.
 
Some diag on some vehicles will give an indication of system pressure but not all.
Have you checked around any of the pipe fittings for green oil traces? Check under the filler caps on the aircon pipes as well. Any little hiss while undoing the caps or traces of oil in the shrader valves can be a good sign of leaks. Big or small. 👍
 
Remember when you were advised it was most likely 'too good to be true' at that price? Honestly, I can't ever see you getting off the 'buy it, reject it' merry-go-round unless you either go for a different vehicle where there will be decent examples in your price range, or raise your funding level.
Yes, I'm beginning to think along those lines myself! I'd expect to do brakes and rubber mounts on most vehicles at about 130000 miles unless they've already been done. With the state of today's roads what else can be expected? My state pension and life expectancy are against me upping my funding level! I'll see what the seller comes up with.
 
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