What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Bix said:
Pretty sure the old bus hates me at this point. Just started a new trend. Stalls when I select a gear. Been told it could be (in no order):
Gearbox oil dead.
TC dying
FIP dying
#4 injector dying
Vacuum hose between inlet manifold and fuel filter
Fuel filter blocked
[Edit: EGR blocked maybe?]

So I guess I get to start digging around this weekend. I really should have diag. Could rule out a few of those easily enough in half an our.

[Edit again: Seems the check engine light keeps flashing up. So I am guessing it is likely to be something that diag monitors. FIP or #4? Anything else I need to check which could flash the check engine?]
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Clean the EGR, then leave the vacuum tube off the actuator, block the rubber tube with an M5 bolt.
The MIL light flashing can be many things, fuel flow out of range is a common one, it flashes on lift off on my project car but only until the engine is fully warmed up. It's not having any effect on performance, so don't think it's the FIP. Modulation is spot on.
Injector #4 OR CPS are two possibilities. As you say, diagnostics would be the way forward.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Check modulation but suspect chain stretch or FIP on its way out. A tired lift-pump wouldn't help, especially if blocked with bacterial growth should anyone have slipped some cooking oil or chip-fat in there recently.
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Datatek said:
Clean the EGR, then leave the vacuum tube off the actuator, block the rubber tube with an M5 bolt.
The MIL light flashing can be many things, fuel flow out of range is a common one, it flashes on lift off on my project car but only until the engine is fully warmed up. It's not having any effect on performance, so don't think it's the FIP. Modulation is spot on.
Injector #4 OR CPS are two possibilities. As you say, diagnostics would be the way forward.
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A garage would be so nice, got the tools I needed and the sky opened. I am guessing EGR is sus since it appears to be leaking black sludge out the diaphragm. I do have it blocked off, so I presume it is stuck open. Could explain the cut outs.
Just got to find a garage round here that can plug into P38s. At least then I'll know where to look next.
 
Okay, good news bad news for me. Cleaned the MAF and EGR. Rebypassed the EGR, MAF now isn't on bypass. Unfortunately engine still cuts out when selecting gear. Mostly it is a direction change that does it, so drive to reverse or reverse to drive. Park to drive isn't too bad, nor drive to park.
I noticed there is a slight metal on metal noise while spinning round the block which is both new and concerning. I'll phone the landy specialist tomorrow to see if they have room to get her on diag. Then go from there.
Check engine light was on a lot, off over 1200rpm but on when idle, so something is goosed.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Must be someone near you with nanocom. Would save a lot of time as it is your runaround

Selector switch okay under there?
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Not that I am aware of. Although there are a good few P38s round here, none of them are on here so I guess Yeovil just sucks.

I was thinking about it in the shower while washing off the schmoo. It is going to be the FIP. MPG is well down, engine cuts out when load is put on the engine at idle (changing gears). If the engine cuts out and I restart in neutral not park it seems to make the engine surge. Guess the place the reconned it a few years back (I think 2017 or 2018 as I was doing my Pinzgauer course) didn't do the best job... or they lied about the recon and it was just a second hand unit off a lower miles engine.
 
Bix said:
Not that I am aware of. Although there are a good few P38s round here, none of them are on here so I guess Yeovil just sucks.

I was thinking about it in the shower while washing off the schmoo. It is going to be the FIP. MPG is well down, engine cuts out when load is put on the engine at idle (changing gears). If the engine cuts out and I restart in neutral not park it seems to make the engine surge. Guess the place the reconned it a few years back (I think 2017 or 2018 as I was doing my Pinzgauer course) didn't do the best job... or they lied about the recon and it was just a second hand unit off a lower miles engine.
Click to expand...

If it already has a recon unit then maybe it is something else like the chains or EGR or lift pump? Lift pump output is quick enough to check.
 
Emptied the dehumidifier and locked him again. If we get the dry Sunday that is forecast will get the charger on him. Hopefully next week will get the opportunity around work, and weather, to get the jack out and under him and see about changing the front airbags at least.
 
Grrrrrr said:
If it already has a recon unit then maybe it is something else like the chains or EGR or lift pump? Lift pump output is quick enough to check.
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I used up my last can of brake clean on the EGR, it is shiny shiny clean. Lift pump was replaced I think 2015 or 2016. I'd hope it isn't dead yet. #4 injector was replaced around the same time. Would a slack chain bring up the MIL?
 
Bix said:
I used up my last can of brake clean on the EGR, it is shiny shiny clean. Lift pump was replaced I think 2015 or 2016. I'd hope it isn't dead yet. #4 injector was replaced around the same time. Would a slack chain bring up the MIL?
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The metalic noise could be timing chain tensioner
 
Datatek said:
The metalic noise could be timing chain tensioner
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I guess it stands to reason. As far as I am aware it is the original chain and I am a stones throw from 270k on the clock. Never really got a lot of history with this car, but neither the chain or tensioner have been changed in my ownership.
 
Datatek said:
I remember when I could fill the tank on my van and get change from ten bob:rolleyes:
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ten-shilling-note-image.jpg
 
Bix said:
I guess it stands to reason. As far as I am aware it is the original chain and I am a stones throw from 270k on the clock. Never really got a lot of history with this car, but neither the chain or tensioner have been changed in my ownership.
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Set the static with a dti and go from there. Il send you the tools if you need them. At 270k chains/tensioners/FIP/injectors are all tiring. Probably get bit more life out of it before an overhaul. You haven’t jumped a cog yet so should be bit there to play with
 
All Ive done is hoover out the air filter (which wasn’t too bad) and charge the battery which it definitely needed. All of sudden it’s gone back to taking off like a rocket? Don’t now whether the edc is bit more awake with proper power supply? Can’t explain it
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Set the static with a dti and go from there. Il send you the tools if you need them. At 270k chains/tensioners/FIP/injectors are all tiring. Probably get bit more life out of it before an overhaul. You haven’t jumped a cog yet so should be bit there to play with
Click to expand...
FIP was done less than 50k ago and Injectors were done about 60k miles ago. Unfortunately when I was getting the FIP done I suggested doing the chain and tensioners while they were in there, but the guy doing the job said he wouldn't have the engine cover off during the work so it'd be loads more labour... should've asked for it anyway. Ah well.
The closest specialist won't touch P38s, but there is a place a bit down the road in Dorset I am going to ring on Monday to see if they can quote for the job. Failing that I found out there is a German car specialist in town who said if I can get it on a diag (they run Snap On stuff but nothing P38 friendly) to find what it is saying they can go from there.
 
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