What did you do with your Range Rover today

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If you are meaning the new shock. Then that is how it was on opening the box. It also matches the picture included in the instructions. :)
Yes I meant the new shock ,it's to do with the articulation , with the cup towards the rubber I've been led to believe can stress the threaded section. Try a search,not sure if it wasn't @Brian P38 but don't quote me on that. but if your instructions say that way crack on.;)
 
front diff checked still full, while under there i noticed dripping diesel from spill 4 :mad: and an alarming strip of metal poking through my cv gaitor. looks like part of the OE clamp or bit of jubilee clip? pulled it out and drives okay (for now :oops:). Bled front brakes again they are better but still not 100% and its coming out clean now. Bleed valve on the modulator is stuck wont undo.
On another topic a friend of a friend has a v reg p38 on his driveway, its a v8 so naturally the injuns bolloxed but there are alot of parts there. What caught my eye was 3 sets of wheels - 18" hurricanes with a comet spare, L322 alloys on the vehicle look about 19s, and 22" wolfrace that cost him £1G which im not interested in. All with good rubber!
i am going to try a deal i.e. offer him half a wispa and a partially melted kitkat with minimal teeth marks

Sounds like a good offer:D
A v reg should have lots of good spares on it.
only now realised i was in the wrong thread :rolleyes:
its a red one so thats a good sign its a scrapper :p:D
 
New front shocks fitted. Need to do the front brake lines now.

View attachment 250002

This is the diagram that @Mark Piercy posted up and he has terraferma shocks and had trouble with them
untitled-jpg.249032
 
@Mark Piercy posted up and he has terraferma shocks and had trouble with them

Thanks. Do you know if the shocks were on a p38? On something like a Defender (RRC/D1) rear the shocks are angled and can induce quite a bit of twisting/rotating action. I don't think it would happen the same on the p38 as the shock is mounted vertical.

Very little twisting action at full stock brake line droop:
Toxc9H3m.jpg



This is the diagram that
untitled-jpg.249032

If this is the case, then this would appear to be correct to how mine are installed (only the upper washer installed and has the 'outer' dish to the bush, as per the above image. Also worth noting the rubber bushes are also shaped, which will also have an impact.

XqSiGDEh.jpg
 
The welds around the stud on the TF shocks have been known to snap off...

I've had 3 different types of shock on the P38.

Bilsteins
TF +2
Britpart standard,

Weirdly the BP standard oil shocks are best best of the bunch, comfort wise it is comparable to my XJ40... very nice.

uo2YzVel.jpg

NT7CpjFl.jpg
 
The welds around the stud on the TF shocks have been known to snap off...

I've had 3 different types of shock on the P38.

Bilsteins
TF +2
Britpart standard,

Weirdly the BP standard oil shocks are best best of the bunch, comfort wise it is comparable to my XJ40... very nice.
Thanks. On the p38 have only run OEM and these Terrafirma ones. TBH Terrafirma wouldn't be my first choice, but I couldn't find any other +2" off the shelf, so didn't have much choice really. Will have to see how they go. My brother has had TF +2 shocks on his 90 and they have been fine for years and used quite heavily at trials events. Another mate runs them on his 90 too and does overlanding.

I suspect if someone had the standard open/closed lengths it might be possible to match up some other brands with the right lengths and fitments.
 
I'll sort out details tomorrow Henry, time to go cook dinner now:)
Evening Henry, here are links to the solar panels I use and the charge controller. I found that on an overcast winters day with the panel behin the Opticool glass nothing less than a 20 watt panel would keep up with the 30/50Ma BECM drain plus the EAS self levelling every 6 hours.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391654230731
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-...otection-AM-/253068192785?hash=item3aec0a2c11
Photo's also attached.
A 10 watt panel behind glass is enough for the Transit with zero battery drain when parked this is permanently installed & connected.
I have 4 20 watt panels for the cars, the panels normally live on the floor behind the vehicle and connect to the trailer socket via the controller. The 7S connections on the left side of the boot have a fused positive feed to the battery so make a safe convenient connection.
I have 5 Hankook batteries including 2 MF31-1000. I have only had on fail when after 8 years the alternator fried it.
 

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Evening Henry, here are links to the solar panels I use and the charge controller. I found that on an overcast winters day with the panel behin the Opticool glass nothing less than a 20 watt panel would keep up with the 30/50Ma BECM drain plus the EAS self levelling every 6 hours.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391654230731
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-...otection-AM-/253068192785?hash=item3aec0a2c11
Photo's also attached.
A 10 watt panel behind glass is enough for the Transit with zero battery drain when parked this is permanently installed & connected.
I have 4 20 watt panels for the cars, the panels normally live on the floor behind the vehicle and connect to the trailer socket via the controller. The 7S connections on the left side of the boot have a fused positive feed to the battery so make a safe convenient connection.
I have 5 Hankook batteries including 2 MF31-1000. I have only had on fail when after 8 years the alternator fried it.

Many Thanks Keith..

I've ordered both, and a new battery :)
 
Drove it twice, once to pick up my wife for lunch and once to drop her off again. On the eternal fuel economy chase, I'm down to roughly 17l/100km (appr. 14 mpg). Not too bad considering the mix of German motorways (she's thirsty above 100 km/h), kayaks on the roof, town and some off-roading. My first lead on a Fairey Overdrive fell through, the one unit was sold before I found a colleague in the UK to facilitate shipping. There is another one, just not sure if I'm really willing o spend 1,000 pounds on it...

Now that the new job is starting to replenish savings a little, I am planning to do some more serious work over winter. Definitely the rear suspension, some bits of the front suspension and at least one Detroit Truetrac diff (in the rear, the replaced open rear diff would replace the worn out front one). I do have my eyes now on a pair of new cylinder heads, I think those might help with power and fuel economy. I like both of these things. I'm considering those as, looking at millage, the cam is most likely needed anyway. While I have a mechanic working on the old lady anyway, my guess is I can have him do the heads at the same time. And the diff, I don't feel like skimming, even if I did it would take ages. and she needs to be ready next May to go for a month to Iceland.

One question so regarding the heads. I'm looking at V8Developments heads and those from Turner. The Turner ones are double the price so, not sure if they are worth it. If someone has experience with either, any opinion would be welcome!

I'll get some window blinds today, sleeping in her without sucks. That'll be the most urgent thing to do, there is a long weekend with her coming up end of October!
 
Drove it twice, once to pick up my wife for lunch and once to drop her off again. On the eternal fuel economy chase, I'm down to roughly 17l/100km (appr. 14 mpg). Not too bad considering the mix of German motorways (she's thirsty above 100 km/h), kayaks on the roof, town and some off-roading. My first lead on a Fairey Overdrive fell through, the one unit was sold before I found a colleague in the UK to facilitate shipping. There is another one, just not sure if I'm really willing o spend 1,000 pounds on it...

Now that the new job is starting to replenish savings a little, I am planning to do some more serious work over winter. Definitely the rear suspension, some bits of the front suspension and at least one Detroit Truetrac diff (in the rear, the replaced open rear diff would replace the worn out front one). I do have my eyes now on a pair of new cylinder heads, I think those might help with power and fuel economy. I like both of these things. I'm considering those as, looking at millage, the cam is most likely needed anyway. While I have a mechanic working on the old lady anyway, my guess is I can have him do the heads at the same time. And the diff, I don't feel like skimming, even if I did it would take ages. and she needs to be ready next May to go for a month to Iceland.

One question so regarding the heads. I'm looking at V8Developments heads and those from Turner. The Turner ones are double the price so, not sure if they are worth it. If someone has experience with either, any opinion would be welcome!

I'll get some window blinds today, sleeping in her without sucks. That'll be the most urgent thing to do, there is a long weekend with her coming up end of October!
Be careful, the number of people who overhaul the top end and knock out the bottom end on an old engine.;)
 
tomcat59allen, that's why I'll let have a mechanic who learned on old RRCs have a look. And do the work, if it is necessary. If not, I won't bother for now. Especially since my silly 900 pounds offer for the Overdrive was accepted... Ah, the second I have some money left I go on a shopping spree! Besides the Overdrive it'll definitely be a Truetrac, I don't trust the front diff enough to let my dad drive her from Bavaria around Iceland and back, and maybe do it myself. Carpets and interior styling can wait, so. I guess it depends on how much spare money I have, doesn't it? good thing so that almost all the work to be done is now more or less in nice-to-have territory, and not MOT-required or avoid-breakdown territory anymore!
 
As it was a nice day I had a bit of a look round Buttercup, I was a little suspicious that she had started to wander a little on the motorway last time out. Front wheels off the ground one at a time, no steering play, no bearing play. Rear wheels off the ground and very slight bearing play on r/h side, other side was alright so not bothering at the moment. Checked over the steering and everything ok except a bit of play in the drop arm splines, I got 3/4 of a turn on the nut :eek::eek: tab washer knocked back in place, job done. While I was feeling energetic I checked prop u/j's, all firm, so feeling all chuffed I did the draining the crap out of the sedimenter thing, all good clean diesel.
Cleaned up, job done, had a cup of tea.:):):)
 
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