What did you do with your Range Rover today

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That is correct but the feed is from the hevac granting, depending on pressure and temperature a feed\request to the becm from my understanding.delve deeper and good luck.when I did mine the temperature changed for the worse so I gave up.:rolleyes:;)
Don't need to delve deeper right now, will dare to assume the trinary works :eek:
 
If twice is holding longer combined than expensive, at the same price, everything is fine! I guess... I run Britpart prop shafts, front and rear. For not even a hundred bucks a piece before Brexit, I thought it's easier to replace those than some axle components. Anyway, prop shafts survived, rear diff didn't.
 
I now have the fun job of finding a voltage drop.
Over half a volt drop at the obd port and who knows where else. It dropped all of a sudden too which isn't good.
Ciggy lighter is still getting a good voltage
 
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If twice is holding longer combined than expensive, at the same price, everything is fine! I guess... I run Britpart prop shafts, front and rear. For not even a hundred bucks a piece before Brexit, I thought it's easier to replace those than some axle components. Anyway, prop shafts survived, rear diff didn't.
I would rather have a better quality product, with longer period between need, than keep buying cheap and have the inconvenience more frequently.
 
Same, though it depends on the item. With something critical like the fan of rather not be on tent pegs every journey
I apply it to almost everything I buy. I was brought up with it as almost a mantra from my Nan. :) Doesn't mean I buy expensive for the hell of it. I just buy the best quality I can afford at the time.

Addit: the L322 is the exception . :D
 
Jacked up the drivers front corner of Otto today, did @kermit_rr 's suggested squeeze of the top (and heater) hoses while blocking the radiator to header tank overflow gap with my finger. No apparent difference until I started him when almost emptied the header tank in one gurgle. Topped up - about a litre or so to normal level and ran until hot. Torque figures compared to dashboard temp gauge were a revelation so thanks for that check. OBD voltage is down about 1v compared to battery, so not ideal, but they move by the right sort of margins. According to Torque ran him up to 93C and a hot header hose before putting the cap on. That was about the point the temp then dropped a few degrees but was stable ay 90-91C, which doesn't sound bad for 21C ambient and stationary. No signs of leaks and both sides heater vents stonking out hot air, so fingers crossed that is all now sorted.
Also tested the VC fan, although forgot to check when cold first. Doesn't matter if cold, warm or hot, it runs all the time at pretty much the same speed, but doing the cardboard / newspaper test resulted in shreds everywhere and no sign of being able to stop it. Don't think that is ideal, but better than not running at all!
 
Spent some more time reading up on RAVE. The thermostat starts to open at 85c ±5c :eek: that's a big tolerance! It's fully open at 96c!! Wowser.
RAVE did not say when the viscous coupling does it's thing, just 'at a predetermined temperature' that's really helpful.
So maybe it's ok after all.. hmm will keep an eye on it. RAVE doesn't say anything about the temp at which the AC fans should kick in, does anyone know? I'm guessing the viscous should activate somewhere between 96c (stat fully open) and before the electrics kick in
 
Spent some more time reading up on RAVE. The thermostat starts to open at 85c ±5c :eek: that's a big tolerance! It's fully open at 96c!! Wowser.
RAVE did not say when the viscous coupling does it's thing, just 'at a predetermined temperature' that's really helpful.
So maybe it's ok after all.. hmm will keep an eye on it. RAVE doesn't say anything about the temp at which the AC fans should kick in, does anyone know? I'm guessing the viscous should activate somewhere between 96c (stat fully open) and before the electrics kick in
105c the A/C fans kick in to aid cooling...
 
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