New steering damper, anti roll bushes and links, air filter, pollen filter, cruise control vacuum pipes replaced, locking wheel nuts replaced, wheel nut set put on (had some 28mm some 27mm??), Bolt drilled out in exhaust and replaced to stop really bad blowing, new steering box, unceased rear offside caliper. Bought a P38 the other day and it was sat idle for months and needed some serious tlc. On 85k on the clock and the engine is mint, nice easy fixes so either back on autotrader... Or I might just keep this one.
The shield that raps around the gear on the CV? Otherwise I can't picture what you mean.When I rebuilt my hubs after replacing the ball joints,I elongated the hole in the dust shield so the sensor can stay in place if I ever had to strip it down again which I did not so long ago to replace the diff.
The domed cover for the reluctor ring.when you pull it apart you will see a hole where the abs sensor goes through, sorry I've lost Rave and I forgot to take pictures.hopefully someone will post diagram /photo.The shield that raps around the gear on the CV? Otherwise I can't picture what you mean.
Not a bad idea tbh, I'd hate to have to do this again. I could've probably done it faster than I am doing (not even got the diff out yet), but everything is such a ball ache. And some genius coated the 4 bolts retaining the hub on one side with so much copper slip, had dried up and filled the threads with crude.
Also, I feel at the last service I put in the wrong diff oil, as there was a lot of grey paste on the drain plug which I can only assume is the diff oil gone bad and probably the reason behind me doing this job.
Thanks, more it will have then, if it stays on okay.
The last adjustment of the pump must be toward the engine? I think he means the one cam lobe you can see through the oil cap.
Also, a trick to pop a ballpoint, strike the metal work where the BJ stud goes through with a hammer. One or two good hits and it'll pop straight off. By the book you shouldn't do it, but that assumes your parts are made of toffee, or you miss and hit something important.
And some genius coated the 4 bolts retaining the hub on one side with so much copper slip, had dried up and filled the threads with crude.
Also, I feel at the last service I put in the wrong diff oil, as there was a lot of grey paste on the drain plug which I can only assume is the diff oil gone bad and probably the reason behind me doing this job.
Go to JTF they sell a syphon pump for about £2 through away after use but who cares 1 min to fill diff. Did both of mine dead easyFinished at last, as I was putting it back together I found why my handbrake isn't perfect, but that is a fix for another day as I've already spent 14 hours working on the ol' girl this weekend.
I really wouldn't want to do that job again any time soon, maybe it would've been quicker if the abs sensor didn't break on me, as I really lost interest in working after that. I honest spent the rest of the disassembly fearing a bolt would shear on me.
But my God I need to invest in a better oil pump, filling a diff with a 20ml syringe takes a while.
Yeah did that, it worked on two of them. This worked a treat though
They were a bastard.Those 4 bolts are f*ckers. Ease off, hammer, ease off, hammer, ease off, hammer ...
Grey paste not sealant? I've heard people advise sealant on the diff oil plug although never used any myself.
I'll have to get a couple for my toolbox. I can't be doing 20ml at a time again. Thanks.Go to JTF they sell a syphon pump for about £2 through away after use but who cares 1 min to fill diff. Did both of mine dead easy
I suppose it is better than my backup option of putting the nut back on the stud and smack the **** out of it.
They were a bastard.
It had the consistency of a metallic paste, like the old arctic silver theme paste. Maybe the old oil emulsified and mixed with metal shavings? Ah well, in the past now.
Land Rover does recommend using Hylomar on the threads. Which now that I think about it, I forgot to do it. Bugger. Hope I don't get a leak.
I'll have to get a couple for my toolbox. I can't be doing 20ml at a time again. Thanks.
For my atf I bought a garden sprayer from screwfix for about 15 quid, worked a treat. I guess it would be slower with diff oil but will still work.
15 quid? That's expensive, paid €7.50 for my last one. Works with diff oil if the spray arm is removed so you just have the pipe.For my atf I bought a garden sprayer from screwfix for about 15 quid, worked a treat. I guess it would be slower with diff oil but will still work.
Needed one quick that would hold enough to fill the box in one hit.15 quid? That's expensive, paid €7.50 for my last one. Works with diff oil if the spray arm is removed so you just have the pipe.
Grey makes me wonder if water has got in? Done any wading?
I've never had a leak.
Filling oil etc. I borrowed something like this off MrGorsky last time. Very good.
Amazon product
The shield that raps around the gear on the CV? Otherwise I can't picture what you mean.
Not a bad idea tbh, I'd hate to have to do this again. I could've probably done it faster than I am doing (not even got the diff out yet), but everything is such a ball ache. And some genius coated the 4 bolts retaining the hub on one side with so much copper slip, had dried up and filled the threads with crude.
Also, I feel at the last service I put in the wrong diff oil, as there was a lot of grey paste on the drain plug which I can only assume is the diff oil gone bad and probably the reason behind me doing this job.
No, I have a P38. I didn't elongate the hole in the end, but feel I might grow to regret that in the future. I just wanted it back together and out of the workshop.Just realised you have a 322, I'm sure I saw P38 mentioned somewhere.
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!