What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Druim said:
Changed the rear airbags, first time for me and can tell its really annoying when you think its all done and the second one leaks and after repair decided to pop, now I know, you don't want it to pop.

Old ones wasn't really old, said made in 2009, didn't look too bad either. (OEM)
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You had weight on it before it had air in it by the looks of it.
 
Saint.V8 said:
So a new bag popped?? How??
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Worked fine the first time but the pipe leaked and after fix i managed to lower the car on the EAS instead of rising went to standard and everything seamed fine for about 5 minutes, then a bang and down on the bump stop it went.
Took it all out and with difficulty put it back on, it was fully stretched so getting it to fold correctly wasn't easy, bit of air, wriggle, more air, wriggle and so on, works a treat now.
 
Datatek said:
My diesel is normally only used once a week and the battery is still good if left for 2 weeks. Solar chargers work fine but IMO you need at least 5 watts to be worth while, I use a 12 watt one with a regulator when needed.
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Hmm, perhaps I need to invest in the Mk3 RF receiver then. Never had any real bother when I lived in the middle of no where, but since living with neighbours I have noticed she had some problems with charge after a week or so.
 
Bix said:
Hmm, perhaps I need to invest in the Mk3 RF receiver then. Never had any real bother when I lived in the middle of no where, but since living with neighbours I have noticed she had some problems with charge after a week or so.
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She ! Lol are we talking the car or the nieghbours :D
 
Bix said:
Hmm, perhaps I need to invest in the Mk3 RF receiver then. Never had any real bother when I lived in the middle of no where, but since living with neighbours I have noticed she had some problems with charge after a week or so.
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I'm in the middle of nowhere, but the car sits just below my office with the WiFi modem and there is also the wireless door bell right next to it but it's still OK.
However there are lots of gizmo's in the UK that can interfere.
 
Grit Valve said:
She ! Lol are we talking the car or the nieghbours :D
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Cost me about 1,400 so far this year... it is a she. :p

Datatek said:
I'm in the middle of nowhere, but the car sits just below my office with the WiFi modem and there is also the wireless door bell right next to it but it's still OK.
However there are lots of gizmo's in the UK that can interfere.
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I had all of that stuff in my old place, but I dunno. I am mostly just paranoid after the last battery died on me, but it did take some cranking to get her to strike up yesterday. Although today no such issues.
 
Endeleus said:
I replaced my steel brake lines with copper for the rear axle.
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Musicmaker said:
not difficult but feeding the pipe from front to N/S/R was a right PITA, (should have done it in sections using unions)
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I didn't find it too bad, and was pleased I could do it in a single piece without unions. I fed the new pipe from the rear o/s wheel arch to the front, and then fed the other end across the rear cross member. Once I'd pulled most of the slack out, I found there wasn't much more to do in the way of forming bends to clip it back neatly.
 
Musicmaker said:
Seems to be OK now:cool:
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I've just read your next post about changing pipe so its a patch of fluid from when you changed your pipe 1
You have a leak you do relise by someone pressing the brake pedal there is more pressure exerted to each brake pipe leading to search caliper is more than just switching the abs pump on ?
 
Grit Valve said:
I've just read your next post about changing pipe so its a patch of fluid from when you changed your pipe 1
You have a leak you do relise by someone pressing the brake pedal there is more pressure exerted to each brake pipe leading to search caliper is more than just switching the abs pump on ?
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At first I thought that fluid from the old pipe eventualy dripped from the chassis onto the driveway. Yes, i'm aware that more pressure will be delivered to the callipers, but the pipes are not leaking from the joins at all and I followed the bleeding instructions as per the Rave manual.

There is however a very small leak somewhere under the reservoir/abs unit, but have not located it as it is difficult to see, though I noticed earlier that there were some small bubbles in the reservoir when I topped up with some fluid. I am wondering if O rings or whatever got damaged when I depresurised the system using the 30 pumps of the brake pedal as per Rave instructions.
 
Musicmaker said:
At first I thought that fluid from the old pipe eventualy dripped from the chassis onto the driveway. Yes, i'm aware that more pressure will be delivered to the callipers, but the pipes are not leaking from the joins at all and I followed the bleeding instructions as per the Rave manual.

There is however a very small leak somewhere under the reservoir/abs unit, but have not located it as it is difficult to see, though I noticed earlier that there were some small bubbles in the reservoir when I topped up with some fluid. I am wondering if O rings or whatever got damaged when I depresurised the system using the 30 pumps of the brake pedal as per Rave instructions.
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Ok keep an eye on the fluid level for a week or so if its dropping then yes a seal could of gone somewhere
 
Musicmaker said:
I am wondering if O rings or whatever got damaged when I depresurised the system using the 30 pumps of the brake pedal as per Rave instructions.
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Personal experience, I will never try is AGAIN myself. I had a problem with breaks in the past and I tired to depressurized the system like RAVE said and what happen that was simple I blew up every O Rings around the reservoir and even manager to damaged the reservoir. If I were you I will be very careful.
 
SpacePig said:
Personal experience, I will never try is AGAIN myself. I had a problem with breaks in the past and I tired to depressurized the system like RAVE said and what happen that was simple I blew up every O Rings around the reservoir and even manager to damaged the reservoir. If I were you I will be very careful.
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I don't see how unless you put extreme pressure in the pedel you only need to do light presses on the pedal each return from pedel Reduces the stored pressure
 
SpacePig said:
Personal experience, I will never try is AGAIN myself. I had a problem with breaks in the past and I tired to depressurized the system like RAVE said and what happen that was simple I blew up every O Rings around the reservoir and even manager to damaged the reservoir. If I were you I will be very careful.
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Thanks for the heads up SpacePig, perhaps the rings were on their way out already. Was it easy to replace the O rings, or did you need to replace the unit? When I depressurised mine, I pressed the pedal gently, but maybe my O rings are now knackered.
 
Musicmaker said:
Thanks for the heads up SpacePig, perhaps the rings were on their way out already. Was it easy to replace the O rings, or did you need to replace the unit? When I depressurised mine, I pressed the pedal gently, but maybe my O rings are now knackered.
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Crazy people you press that brake pedel all day long if the seals are perished they are perished letting built up pressure out has nothing to do with wrecking seals hard braking and perished seals are more likely !!!!
 
Yes I know, the RR has done 138k miles so of course parts will be worn, but get this. Just this minute checked for where this effin leak was coming from. The top of the reservoir had some fluid on it and running down the back. (my driveway is on a slight incline) Took the cap off and the fluid was right up to the neck, probably overflowing. Think I mentioned this before on here. Previously when I topped up, I ran the abs pump until it stopped then topped up to the Max mark. However, bit of history here, The previous owner had lost the cap, so I got one from the scrappie that had a diaphram in it. I found the original cap the other day hiding on top of the engine. I noticed it did not have a diaphram, so I put that back on. Maybe I need to go to Specsavers :D
 
Musicmaker said:
Yes I know, the RR has done 138k miles so of course parts will be worn, but get this. Just this minute checked for where this effin leak was coming from. The top of the reservoir had some fluid on it and running down the back. (my driveway is on a slight incline) Took the cap off and the fluid was right up to the neck, probably overflowing. Think I mentioned this before on here. Previously when I topped up, I ran the abs pump until it stopped then topped up to the Max mark. However, bit of history here, The previous owner had lost the cap, so I got one from the scrappie that had a diaphram in it. I found the original cap the other day hiding on top of the engine. I noticed it did not have a diaphram, so I put that back on. Maybe I need to go to Specsavers :D
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Cool I can't remember but I'm sure you check top up with engine off to max activate pump switch off and recheck
 
FLUID LEVEL CHECK/TOP UP
1. Park vehicle on level ground.
2. Turn ignition ON, to activate hydraulic pump. If
pump does not operate depress brake pedal
several times until pump operates.
3. When pump stops, check level is between ’MIN’
and ’MAX’ marks.
WARNING: Clean reservoir body and filler
cap before removing cap. Use only fluid
from a sealed container.
4. If level is below ’MIN’ mark top up fluid level to
’MAX’ mark on reservoir, using correct fluid. See
LUBRICANTS, FLUIDS AND CAPACITIES,
Information.
DO NOT OVER FILL RESERVOIR
 
Druim said:
FLUID LEVEL CHECK/TOP UP
1. Park vehicle on level ground.
2. Turn ignition ON, to activate hydraulic pump. If
pump does not operate depress brake pedal
several times until pump operates.
3. When pump stops, check level is between ’MIN’
and ’MAX’ marks.
WARNING: Clean reservoir body and filler
cap before removing cap. Use only fluid
from a sealed container.
4. If level is below ’MIN’ mark top up fluid level to
’MAX’ mark on reservoir, using correct fluid. See
LUBRICANTS, FLUIDS AND CAPACITIES,
Information.
DO NOT OVER FILL RESERVOIR
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There you go, op must of over filled it then with the addition of a wrong cap
 
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