What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Fixed two annoying electrical problems; 1st one - a home made 'improvement' by a previous owner of adding a fan to the gearbox oil cooler rad' that has not worked since I bought the car a couple fo years ago is now fully fixed, new relay installed, traced wires as per @wammers / @Grrrrrr and @Datatek suggestions - flux capacitor is now replaced and fully functioning.
2nd - while doing modifications to the location of the gearbox oil cooler rad' I created an electric fault that led to a dashboard message claiming, instantly, that the gearbox oil was overheating. Traced the wires and found that I had failed to re-connect the sensor properly and once dome that fixed the fault - so that has to be one of the easiest fixes I've ever done.

Now to fix the tailgate on the L322....
 
Salisbury Nick said:
Well that’s a coincidence. I went out yesterday and found that my tailgate switch is NOT working. I can open the top section but the bottom section button seems to be depressed and can’t be further depressed leaving the lower tailgate firmly shut which is a bugger when trying to load the shopping for three vulnerable households that I am currently the only person that can shop for them.

It’s a 2011 model L322. Any suggestions - other than sell it because it’s an L323!
Click to expand...
Isn't it the same as the p38, press once to open the top, press again to open the bottom?
If the spring isn't pushing the button back out then you can't press it in
 
kermit_rr said:
Isn't it the same as the p38, press once to open the top, press again to open the bottom?
If the spring isn't pushing the button back out then you can't press it in
Click to expand...

It's not the same - P38 has a round button above the number plate on the back of the gate. L322 has a small discreet rectangular button on the thin section of the end of the gate where it is obscured by the top section when closed. So it is a two button operation, one to open the top section and a different button to open the bottom.

However, the solution was to run a thin bit of plastic strip around the button and it popped up - but it is hinged - so one part remains fixed down the other side pops up very slightly.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Heard a chirp when I went out earlier. Sounds like aircon belt might need tightening. Looked underneath at the pulley but cannot remember what size Allen key I need. Lost the will to live and decided to have a beer instead.
Click to expand...

10mm Allen key and 13mm spanner on the oil burner. There's just room to bend the fan cowl enough to get the Allen key in and out, slacken the 13mm bolt, turn the Allen key to up the tension on the belt and tighten the bolt again.

No more chirp although only been a few yards up and down the drive.
 
Motor on my low range seems fine. Cleaned all the connections and still no go. Reading around seems to suggest the ecu is the next most likely culprit so lashed out a princely ten quid for one on ebay.
 
kds said:
Bugger, I just replyed to last post but well done.
Click to expand...

I still have no audio.... I have no DSP option on the screen so I'm assuming it's the amplifier. I've cleaned up the connections and it looks pretty spick and span inside (the amp). Power is getting to the amp but that's as far as I've got. o_O
 
Tenebreaux said:
Motor on my low range seems fine. Cleaned all the connections and still no go. Reading around seems to suggest the ecu is the next most likely culprit so lashed out a princely ten quid for one on ebay.
Click to expand...
The drive transistors fry if the motor or mechanisms gets stiff. The ECU usually has a smell of burning plastic when that happens. Is the motor correctly timed?
 
IMG_20200403_153305.jpg
cleaned this out of my brakes, front and rear. The fronts had seized on...
I dug an awful lot of soil and clay out from underneath and lost about 5kgs...
IMG_20200403_194214.jpg
IMG_20200403_194223.jpg
IMG-20200403-WA0011.jpeg
IMG-20200403-WA0012.jpeg
 
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