What did you do with your Range Rover today

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First thing is to nick some decent rims.
They are the old style RR 3 spoke (don't know what name they go by) and were alright for a while but just now getting round to finishing the cosmetic bits, so need to repaint.
Besides, in my wisdom, I have decided the rims should be black with accents of silver, "these arn't just any old alloys, these are M & S Range Rover Classic Original alloys" said in a husky voice.

Anyway, nicked the Doris's marigolds, so could carry on today with wheel # 2. And etch primed # 1. Problem now is my hands are a bit big for the gloves so a bit of a drama/comedy getting them on and off. Also, note to self, ----------- remember NOT to use feckin aftershave until some skin grows back.
 
They are the old style RR 3 spoke (don't know what name they go by) and were alright for a while but just now getting round to finishing the cosmetic bits, so need to repaint.
Besides, in my wisdom, I have decided the rims should be black with accents of silver, "these arn't just any old alloys, these are M & S Range Rover Classic Original alloys" said in a husky voice.

Anyway, nicked the Doris's marigolds, so could carry on today with wheel # 2. And etch primed # 1. Problem now is my hands are a bit big for the gloves so a bit of a drama/comedy getting them on and off. Also, note to self, ----------- remember NOT to use feckin aftershave until some skin grows back.

Didn't know that Marks and Spencer had sold alloy rims.:D
 
Thats the prop sorted out now, new nuts and bolts (were rounded off) new UJ in, shaking has gone, and the squeak has gone, so its fine till something goes fubar again, oh got a new air pump (Dunlop) not that German crap, that's made in China) dont get pumps from
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User ID air-suspension-shop-eu
 
Came out of work to find my aircon had had a little wee. Pipes have been rubbing together so the £60 of gas I just put is now no more. Bugger.

Has anyone successfully soldered these or have I just got to buy a new one?

Aircon 1.jpg


Aircon 2.jpg


Aircon 3.jpg
 
Took it to be cleaned... What a joke:p.. it's only been cleaned three... No, four times in two years... it's going to be Jam packed tomorrow with camping gear and hitting the road for around 6hrs. Then it's thumping, grinding, bumping and sliding time.. then I'll leave the tent and go driving.:eek::D
 
@wammers Yeah I looked at that but I have some stuff to do on my BMW alloy bike engine around the exhaust studs and the ebay stuff has a 300 oC melting point, the other stuff is 700.

The other stuff is alloy filler rod for welding. That is alloy brazing rod, as long as substrate is immaculately clean, alloy can be repaired with that using a good blow torch. Obviously cannot be use for big holes it would just flow through.
 
The other stuff is alloy filler rod for welding. That is alloy brazing rod, as long as substrate is immaculately clean, alloy can be repaired with that using a good blow torch. Obviously cannot be use for big holes it would just flow through.

It's the melting point I'm thinking of as it's where the exhaust bolts to the engine block.
 
Had the wives LPG system serviced, since it had a spotty past. The guy got the setup so the engine runs like silk on gas, and recommended a couple of changes that could prolong the life of the system, such as mounting the injectors and an angle rather than horizontal, so I'll take to the metalsmith on Monday, and see if he can make me a bracket.

[Edit: I used mine to move a lot of my kit from work to home, I am posted at the end of the month, so figured I should start moving the big stuff now.]
 
@wammers Yeah I looked at that but I have some stuff to do on my BMW alloy bike engine around the exhaust studs and the ebay stuff has a 300 oC melting point, the other stuff is 700.
The secret with aluminium is to make sure that you remove the oxide layer on the surface, it melts at a higher temperature than the aluminium , this is what causes the collapse. By the time you have the oxide melting the aluminium inside is liquid.
 
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