What did you do with your Range Rover today

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New battery today in the L322.
What a faff. Those bloody security torx screws are a real PITA, why the need? you have to ask sometimes.
A couple of small flesh wounds to the knuckles and a bit of sorting the fusible link to get it all to fit back together.
But all done, it’s all pretty snug in that space:). No sorry it’s very very snug.
Told the car new battery fitted with GAP and checked around while plugged in,only 1 fault “unknown” but date and time logged was when I reconnected battery so don’t believe that’s an issue.
While looking around got some data that confused me a bit so will be onto search and see if it’s a problem or not:eek:

I can also confirm that the battery voltage shown in the service menu (on car) shows the same as the GAP, which is nice to know for future checks.

Swapping the cars back around the bloody OF battery has gone flat:mad: it was only outside for 1 night and a newish battery (last year). There is always something to keep us amused:oops::)

Back in the warm house and now it’s beer O clock, happy weekend:)

J
 
Lots of little jobs today to do:
Leak on Rear window washer pipe
Repair broken headlamp washer arm, (broken washer pipe spiggot)
Whistling noise from behind dash when fans on,
Connect wire to dashboard sensor fan. Remembered that it wasn't connected when dash went back in and could be cause of HEVAC warning light.
So kettle on, tools out and me for the day..
(It's that or trip to Morrisons..)
 
kermit_rr said:
Tigers?? Lol
Click to expand...
Yes its not a typo they really are called Tiger. They are made in Slovakia but are owned by Dunlop, they have a very good European rating and found them by chance. I had ordered new winter Bridgestone's last year from Moscow but when they arrived after a week they were the wrong size so sent them back and bought locally what I could find and have not been disappointed by quality or price.
 
Bagshot said:
Lots of little jobs today to do:
Leak on Rear window washer pipe
Repair broken headlamp washer arm, (broken washer pipe spiggot)
Whistling noise from behind dash when fans on,
Connect wire to dashboard sensor fan. Remembered that it wasn't connected when dash went back in and could be cause of HEVAC warning light.
So kettle on, tools out and me for the day..
(It's that or trip to Morrisons..)
Click to expand...
We'll all done.. nearly.
Front headlamps wipers working now..
IMG_20190112_132322.jpg

Drilled out and straw from WD can glued in.. result.
Rear washer working as well, NRV valve goosed, so cut out and joined and spray nozzle cleaned and realigned. ( Checking Fleabay for new one)
Sorted dashfan wire out, but still book light on with Aircon. ( Not gonna die over it.so can wait till summer)
And whistling found, gaffer taped ducting come loose so redone.
Good day all round really..!
 
marjon said:
New battery today in the L322.
What a faff. Those bloody security torx screws are a real PITA, why the need? you have to ask sometimes.
A couple of small flesh wounds to the knuckles and a bit of sorting the fusible link to get it all to fit back together.
But all done, it’s all pretty snug in that space:). No sorry it’s very very snug.
Told the car new battery fitted with GAP and checked around while plugged in,only 1 fault “unknown” but date and time logged was when I reconnected battery so don’t believe that’s an issue.
While looking around got some data that confused me a bit so will be onto search and see if it’s a problem or not:eek:

I can also confirm that the battery voltage shown in the service menu (on car) shows the same as the GAP, which is nice to know for future checks.

Swapping the cars back around the bloody OF battery has gone flat:mad: it was only outside for 1 night and a newish battery (last year). There is always something to keep us amused:oops::)

Back in the warm house and now it’s beer O clock, happy weekend:)

J
Click to expand...
What's GAP?
Gay and proud?
Good answered prayer?!
 
kermit_rr said:
What's GAP?
Gay and proud?
Good answered prayer?!
Click to expand...

@kermit_rr

GAP IID,is diagnostics.
It has a lot of info, we have had it a while but not really used it much, but it just sits in the car as insurance:)
It can do a lot on the new L322 (2011).
77807EE7-465F-40D6-9155-4640CCF5FB57.png

Loads of info, use with the I pad or phone. Record live data alssorts of clever stuff.

But of course it could equate to your last suggestion too:)

J
 
Datatek said:
Door latch micro switches can cause that, mine has started doing it occasionally, if I lock & unlock a couple of times it's OK. I have all the security stuff turned off, so it may be easier with mine.
Click to expand...
Hi Datatek, All been fine for weeks since my last disablement in the P38 and today went to the shops came out and Engine disabled. Tried the key code, nothing happened. Door does unlock but not the central locking and the engine stays disabled. Have tried many times now and have used both keys. Its not as if I don't know how to use the EKA as I have used it many times with success So I suspect it must be the micro switch just asking what you think? Plus the little red lamp on top of the dash next to the gps sensor is flashing and it has never done that before that I have noticed.
Any clues mate?
 
Gunnerhavesome said:
Hi Datatek, All been fine for weeks since my last disablement in the P38 and today went to the shops came out and Engine disabled. Tried the key code, nothing happened. Door does unlock but not the central locking and the engine stays disabled. Have tried many times now and have used both keys. Its not as if I don't know how to use the EKA as I have used it many times with success So I suspect it must be the micro switch just asking what you think? Plus the little red lamp on top of the dash next to the gps sensor is flashing and it has never done that before that I have noticed.
Any clues mate?
Click to expand...
On mine, I know it's the micro switch, I don't have to use the EKA code, just re-lock and unlock using the FOB and it usually works.
 
Took the old girl down to the local garage this morning to have the pre-heat system looked at again as it had stopped working again.
No real disaster as I have been able to use a jump lead direct to the glows from the battery, but obviously not ideal.
Anyway, for some reason the wiring does not quite match the blades on the relay? the mechanic found a known good relay in his odds and sods bin that works fine as long as the dash warning light sender wire is disconnected, again not really a problem as I can hear when the relay clicks off, so I can start her up from cold as normal.
I am just a tad ****ed off with this as bought a Hella relay/timer of the right part number, but as the mech said "if you pay a lot more money for a genuine part it might be alright", I think there is a chance a previous owner did something clever with the wiring so it may not be the solution anyway.
I'll just put up with it for now.
 
frog hopper said:
Took the old girl down to the local garage this morning to have the pre-heat system looked at again as it had stopped working again.
No real disaster as I have been able to use a jump lead direct to the glows from the battery, but obviously not ideal.
Anyway, for some reason the wiring does not quite match the blades on the relay? the mechanic found a known good relay in his odds and sods bin that works fine as long as the dash warning light sender wire is disconnected, again not really a problem as I can hear when the relay clicks off, so I can start her up from cold as normal.
I am just a tad ****ed off with this as bought a Hella relay/timer of the right part number, but as the mech said "if you pay a lot more money for a genuine part it might be alright", I think there is a chance a previous owner did something clever with the wiring so it may not be the solution anyway.
I'll just put up with it for now.
Click to expand...
If it worked and then stopped working, it's unlikely to be a wiring error, wires do not move of their own volition.
 
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