Have to say all the metal attached to the chassis, after cleaning, was strangely solid (have I got a good one..?) Are these side brackets available separately they seem easy to get off. The rest seems ok..My bumper is like that and the outrigger that comes off the chassis has also snapped in half
A good 2nd hand one looks to be in order then?
What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
- Start date
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Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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Ouch.. feeling your pain.lol
Got my work cut out for me..
Mine still turns, luckily, but i think it needs changing
Did the transfer neutral and front wheel off the ground test. It turns, but feels stiff-ish.
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- 19,297
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Mine still turns, luckily, but i think it needs changing
It will. And the faster you turn the harder it will get. You're looking for slow steady pressure. If your torque wrench needs to be set to 140nm or above to stop it clicking then it probably is on its way out. I'm not sure what the upper limit should be but mine still turned at 140nm albeit with a lot more force than it used to. Also, as i went down steep hills I could feel the morse-chain bouncing through the transmission. Apparently Land Rover say to replace it every 100k miles so by 150k miles it really needs replacing, especially if like mine the vehicle does some work for a living.
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Ungrateful Shïtbag.....replaced the plugs.Did bugger all...
Dead glow plugs stopped play!!!
Beru's on route with a new fuel filter....
Result-Two dead glow plugs AND a dead intank fuel pump
...Now I've got to tow the thing that tows everything else!!!
We are at the mercy's of ungrateful mistresses.Ungrateful Shïtbag.....replaced the plugs.
Result-Two dead glow plugs AND a dead intank fuel pump
Now I've got to tow the thing that tows everything else!!!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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If you drop the tank to do the pump, there is a short piece of hose connecting the filler pipe to the tank, it can be difficult to shift and on mine it was badly perished. I couldn't find and pipe that was compatible with diesel so had to fork out for the real thing. Best price I could find was from www.landers-shop.frUngrateful Shïtbag.....replaced the plugs.
Result-Two dead glow plugs AND a dead intank fuel pump
Now I've got to tow the thing that tows everything else!!!
If you are going to tow it, don't forget fuse 11 for transfer neutral.
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- 12,628
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- Sud ouest France !
Thank you for your help, luckily it broke down at home... Somewhere down there on the drive!!! But I do need to remember the fuse trick just incase...
Landers aren't bad for prices really, I've had the tank out before due to a corroded return pipe... I wish I'd just replaced the bugger then... But because it was only a small leak and the pump ran well, I put it all back in again.... Punching my own face is now becoming an annoying habit......I do remember the filler neck connection pipe looking a bit naff at the time.
Stuff just gets a bit much sometimes..
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
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- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Thank you for your help, luckily it broke down at home... Somewhere down there on the drive!!! But I do need to remember the fuse trick just incase...
Landers aren't bad for prices really, I've had the tank out before due to a corroded return pipe... I wish I'd just replaced the bugger then... But because it was only a small leak and the pump ran well, I put it all back in again.... Punching my own face is now becoming an annoying habit......I do remember the filler neck connection pipe looking a bit naff at the time.
Stuff just gets a bit much sometimes..
Just cut the filler-neck pipe and replace it on reassembly. Makes it much easier. Hardest part is getting all the old fuel out.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Thank you for your help, luckily it broke down at home... Somewhere down there on the drive!!! But I do need to remember the fuse trick just incase...
Landers aren't bad for prices really, I've had the tank out before due to a corroded return pipe... I wish I'd just replaced the bugger then... But because it was only a small leak and the pump ran well, I put it all back in again.... Punching my own face is now becoming an annoying habit......I do remember the filler neck connection pipe looking a bit naff at the time.
Stuff just gets a bit much sometimes..
Just cut the filler-neck pipe and replace it on reassembly. Makes it much easier. Hardest part is getting all the old fuel out.
Mukiwa
Well-Known Member
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- 472
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- Winsford, Cheshire, near Oulton Park
Fixed the rattle underneath. When I swapped out the buggered rear Woodhead (woodhouse?) shocks for the free replacement Britparts, torqued it all up went for a drive - no rattling. Wierd.
Anyway I do now detect a high pitch squeaking that stops when I put my foot on the brake pedal. All pads looked good when I checked though. As Mark Piercy says - it does get a bit much sometimes!
Not sure how long I'll keep the Britparts in, I went for OEM and got the Woodheads. I'll see how they feel
Anyway I do now detect a high pitch squeaking that stops when I put my foot on the brake pedal. All pads looked good when I checked though. As Mark Piercy says - it does get a bit much sometimes!
Not sure how long I'll keep the Britparts in, I went for OEM and got the Woodheads. I'll see how they feel
Mukiwa
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 472
- Location
- Winsford, Cheshire, near Oulton Park
Fixed the rattle underneath. When I swapped out the buggered rear Woodhead (woodhouse?) shocks for the free replacement Britparts, torqued it all up went for a drive - no rattling. Wierd.
Anyway I do now detect a high pitch squeaking that stops when I put my foot on the brake pedal. All pads looked good when I checked though. As Mark Piercy says - it does get a bit much sometimes!
Not sure how long I'll keep the Britparts in, I went for OEM and got the Woodheads. I'll see how they feel
Anyway I do now detect a high pitch squeaking that stops when I put my foot on the brake pedal. All pads looked good when I checked though. As Mark Piercy says - it does get a bit much sometimes!
Not sure how long I'll keep the Britparts in, I went for OEM and got the Woodheads. I'll see how they feel
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 44,887
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- Near Poitiers SW France
Expensive game cutting that little bit of hose if it's in OK condition when a diesel proof replacement is going to set you back £35 to £50w with postage
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 44,887
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- Near Poitiers SW France
Expensive game cutting that little bit of hose if it's in OK condition when a diesel proof replacement is going to set you back £35 to £50 with postage
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Expensive game cutting that little bit of hose if it's in OK condition when a diesel proof replacement is going to set you back £35 to £50 with postage
Didn't cost that much from Island. More like £15.
EDIT: just had a look on Island site. Looks like they don't sell it anymore!
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Expensive game cutting that little bit of hose if it's in OK condition when a diesel proof replacement is going to set you back £35 to £50 with postage
Didn't cost that much from Island. More like £15.
EDIT: just had a look on Island site. Looks like they don't sell it anymore!
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Woodhead = Boge?
Mukiwa
Well-Known Member
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- 472
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- Winsford, Cheshire, near Oulton Park
Yep, they don't do Boge rears anymore according to Island4x4, I phoned and checked
Mukiwa
Well-Known Member
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- 472
- Location
- Winsford, Cheshire, near Oulton Park
Yep, they don't do Boge rears anymore according to Island4x4, I phoned and checked
stemac33
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- Accrington, Lancs
Why are we shouting into the depths of the fuel tank it's echoing
stemac33
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- Accrington, Lancs
Echo
stemac33
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