What did you do with your Range Rover today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Next jobs are sorting cruise vacuum pipe, and lower windscreen rattle at 70mph. Did this on green P38 a few years back but cannot remember what clips I used.
Cruise temporarily sorted.

New vacuum hose installed. Brake switch has broken clip but managed to get it to hold in place just!! AMR1173 ECU faulty.
Opened it up & re-soldered the entire PCB, but no joy. Borrowed the working ECU from Green P38 while that's waiting for MOT.

ECU & brake switch ordered. Hopefully ECU is working, otherwise I'm considering the AMR5700 upgrade.
 
Yes that's what I bought. Ambient was probably only 8-10deg, so it measured 35k ohm, but just holding between fingers the resistance quickly dropped to 20k. HEVAC definitely tracked the GEMS engine temp, although I only did a couple of checks in each ECU.
:D 👍👍
 
Once the engine is up to temperature, the aircon works on my P38's at lower than -2C
Been out with the computer and it worked perfectly, even kept the fan speed and temp adjusted on auto! AC was flawless.
When i was poking thru live data it complained that it didn't know if i had rear climate seats or not
 
Is it possible you went through a prolonged dip in the road or just an area of denser, colder air? Happened to me once driving from the French Alps, there was a valley that went very rapidly from -5 to -15 or so, the screen misted up very quickly to the point where an urgent dab of the 'max defrost' button was needed, we were on the way to Marseille to catch a ferry to Tunis so I know the aircon was working fine, or at least was the next morning with an ambient of +24 or so.
 
Is it possible you went through a prolonged dip in the road or just an area of denser, colder air? Happened to me once driving from the French Alps, there was a valley that went very rapidly from -5 to -15 or so, the screen misted up very quickly to the point where an urgent dab of the 'max defrost' button was needed, we were on the way to Marseille to catch a ferry to Tunis so I know the aircon was working fine, or at least was the next morning with an ambient of +24 or so.
No, but on reflection i didn't hear the blower going at all
 
1704658465857.png
 
On a brighter note, my L405 has started 'marking it's territory' just behind the N/S 'A' pillar - which will be the ARC pipework corroded & leaking, TBH, it's always a 'when' not an 'if'. So into work early tomorrow to check if it's the front or rear pipes, fronts are marginally easier even though there are more pipes as you can replace without dropping the subframe. Still £400+ for the parts though.
 
Today after a couple of months of driving around (after 10yr off the road) I had to crawl under my P38 again to change the trailer socket.

It veers dangerously when hitting potholes. I suspect that the steering is not centralised (still need to check) but I also suspected the steering damper to be toast. I could push it in with my finger so I guess that needs replacing.

I also noticed the output seal on the front diff is leaking, anybody know if this is a horrible job to replace or not?
 
Back
Top