What did you do with your Range Rover today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Grrrrrr said:
Overheated on the way home. Left it to cool down and I'll see what is what tomorrow.

Also, I think the clutch was slipping a little at high torque over thre weekend. That was only replaced 5 years ago with a Valeo one. Could be some oil contamination but I did the rear seal 5 years ago while I had the clutch out. I'm fed up of taking that box out (3 times in 10 years) and seriously considering buying something Jap!
Click to expand...

Well, wasted four hours on this today. Coolant was a little low so topped up and then started her. Cannot recreate the clutch behaviour for love nor money and beginning to wonder if I imagined it. Moreover, she won't overheat. Ran her for hours, standing, mix of driving, driving at 3.500 rpm, you name it. Only odd thing is that the temperature needle was at about 11.30 until I stopped and left her running for ten minutes and then after that it was nailed at 12. I guess that means the visxous is working as it roared and then went quiet and I could stop it when it qas quiet. Couldn't get the temperature high enough to lock it again.

My only thoughts are: dodgy thermostat, possibly caused by the overheat when the coolant hose let go last month or possibly the impeller on the water pump shaft may intermittently spin on its shaft causing an overheat. The lost coolant seemed to cone out of the headertank overflow pipe so I am leaning towards thermostat sticking. Of course, the whole system was flushed and new thermostat put in last summer when I put a new head on. Didn't replace the eater pump because I was sent the wrong one (plastic impeller) so put the old metal one back on. I mist have bought that 10 or 11 years ago.

In short, I am clueless until it does it again or gives me sone sort of a clue.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Well, wasted four hours on this today. Coolant was a little low so topped up and then started her. Cannot recreate the clutch behaviour for love nor money and beginning to wonder if I imagined it. Moreover, she won't overheat. Ran her for hours, standing, mix of driving, driving at 3.500 rpm, you name it. Only odd thing is that the temperature needle was at about 11.30 until I stopped and left her running for ten minutes and then after that it was nailed at 12. I guess that means the visxous is working as it roared and then went quiet and I could stop it when it qas quiet. Couldn't get the temperature high enough to lock it again.

My only thoughts are: dodgy thermostat, possibly caused by the overheat when the coolant hose let go last month or possibly the impeller on the water pump shaft may intermittently spin on its shaft causing an overheat. The lost coolant seemed to cone out of the headertank overflow pipe so I am leaning towards thermostat sticking. Of course, the whole system was flushed and new thermostat put in last summer when I put a new head on. Didn't replace the eater pump because I was sent the wrong one (plastic impeller) so put the old metal one back on. I mist have bought that 10 or 11 years ago.

In short, I am clueless until it does it again or gives me sone sort of a clue.
Click to expand...
Air in the system judging by the gauge behaviour. Unreliable viscous fan, the bi-metallic coil at the front drives a shaft that operates the storage valve, the shafts are known to stick.
 
Wife took the spare key to the garage and he worked perfectly. So despite the battery testing okay and broadcasting a signal it obviously wasn't quite good enough to work the system.
So will now be sourcing new batteries for both fobs - tidser 1220 in there.
Passed the MOT with some advisories - start of leak on left rear shock and, you'd never guess, oil leak on engine.
New fuel pump fitted but the lines were corroded and damaged so also being replaced. Should be able to collect him tomorrow with luck.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Wife took the spare key to the garage and he worked perfectly. So despite the battery testing okay and broadcasting a signal it obviously wasn't quite good enough to work the system.
So will now be sourcing new batteries for both fobs - tidser 1220 in there.
Passed the MOT with some advisories - start of leak on left rear shock and, you'd never guess, oil leak on engine.
New fuel pump fitted but the lines were corroded and damaged so also being replaced. Should be able to collect him tomorrow with luck.
Click to expand...
My engine don't leak🤭
No really it doesn't 😝
 
stemac33 said:
What you guys think, is it worth it.
www.ebay.co.uk

Range Rover p38 Diesel cylinder head pre 2000 bmw m51 complete | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Range Rover p38 Diesel cylinder head pre 2000 bmw m51 complete at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk
Click to expand...
No.
That one needs work. £40 tops if I was looking for head to do myself. All is worth without sellers personal guarantee to get me another if it is duff
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
11
Views
1K
brasso
brasso
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
443
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
700
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
767
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Back
Top