What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Grrrrrr said:
I don't believe you can get it out on the RHD model. LHD it might be possible. Having done it with the dash out I would say it is worth taking it out. I found several screws missing that hokd the dash in place which is why it was starting to warp. Fixed all sorts of stuff so it was more secure while I was in there. I put the bigger Nissens matrix in and only had to skim the central rib with a knife to make it fit.
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+1 on taking dash out. It's not that hard, plus you can check & fix any blend servo or heater box flap issues at same time. Cutting dash bits & fixing them afterwards will take just as long !!
 
pwood999 said:
+1 on taking dash out. It's not that hard, plus you can check & fix any blend servo or heater box flap issues at same time. Cutting dash bits & fixing them afterwards will take just as long !!
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Yeah, you're probably right. Luckily all my motors seem to do what they are supposed to, I've got a mate with a motor issue, only blows cold on the drivers side so I can tell him how much work it is after I've done mine.
 
Mate popped round today to do a little plastering job for me so while he was here I got him to cycle the ignition whilst I got my dmm on one off the glow plugs. I've got voltage (10.8v iirc which I'm guessing is OK going off my old S3 diesel from yonks ago) so new plugs needed.
 
Flossie said:
Mate popped round today to do a little plastering job for me so while he was here I got him to cycle the ignition whilst I got my dmm on one off the glow plugs. I've got voltage (10.8v iirc which I'm guessing is OK going off my old S3 diesel from yonks ago) so new plugs needed.
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Yes, 10.8 volts is about right, the correct glow plugs are rated for 11volts.
 
Datatek said:
Yes, 10.8 volts is about right, the correct glow plugs are rated for 11volts.
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Just ordered 6 bosch ones £58 delivered. Can't move her until they come , seems the dash comes out the passenger side, rhd, and she's up against a wall that side. Once they are fitted, should be Wednesday if I'm lucky, I'll move her to in front of the garage door so I haven't got as far to walk back and forth with tools and parts. I'll start the dash removal when I get back from me holibobs weather permitting. Raining...work on the bombsite lounge, same if the light is fading, dry..
I'll work on the rangey.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I don't believe you can get it out on the RHD model. LHD it might be possible. Having done it with the dash out I would say it is worth taking it out. I found several screws missing that hokd the dash in place which is why it was starting to warp. Fixed all sorts of stuff so it was more secure while I was in there. I put the bigger Nissens matrix in and only had to skim the central rib with a knife to make it fit.
Click to expand...
Bigger nissens? One with 19mm stubs you mean?
 
Flossie said:
Just ordered 6 bosch ones £58 delivered. Can't move her until they come , seems the dash comes out the passenger side, rhd, and she's up against a wall that side. Once they are fitted, should be Wednesday if I'm lucky, I'll move her to in front of the garage door so I haven't got as far to walk back and forth with tools and parts. I'll start the dash removal when I get back from me holibobs weather permitting. Raining...work on the bombsite lounge, same if the light is fading, dry..
I'll work on the rangey.
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Bosch, Delphi, NGK or Beru are all good as long as they are not Chinese copies.
 
doriz said:
What oil is recommended for the Thor engine please?
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The book states a modern, thin oil for emissions purposes, i don't think that's best for the engine.
Try a 20W50. I used valvoline sr1 racing oil as it has added zddp for flat lifters.
Modern oils don't have it as it's possibly bad for the longevity of catalytic converters
 
Flossie said:
Sweet. Heater hose question. I'd rather use a continuous length from engine to matrix, is this possible or are the original hoses a larger/smaller bore so reducers are needed?
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It will be smaller on the metalwork Flossie, but I used the existing pipe which was there, using an inline straight coupler from my new matrix hoses to join up..
Otherwise, you may need the verniers..
Titch
 
Flossie said:
Sweet. Heater hose question. I'd rather use a continuous length from engine to matrix, is this possible or are the original hoses a larger/smaller bore so reducers are needed?
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I did that. I'm trying to remember what I did. I do recall getting them through the grommet in the bulkhead was fun as the grommet kept popping out. Fairy liquid helped there. I might be wrong but I think I bought some reducers but in the end just cut the ends off the original ally pipes and used them to join the pipes together. I did have a spare set of ally pipes lying around the garage though in case it all went wrong. Putting the ends in hot water, Fairy on the metal and maybe a hair-dryer to keep the rubber soft all make it a lot easier to push the hose onto connectors. I also used Mikalor hose clamps but in hindsight I think stainless steel Jubilee clips the right size would have been better. A touch of Loctite wouldn't hurt either.
 
Sometimes it’s sounds like a right faff to fix something that has lasted 20yrs?
for the sake of a couple of O rings :vb-confused2:
If it’s the matrix that is the issue I don’t know the cost difference.

J
 
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