What did you do with your Range Rover today

Grrrrrr · Aug 13, 2023

brianp38dse said:
Well the new battery arrived from batterymegastore and put it on charge tested it first and it was 12.5v and my load tester was saying charge it,
just goes to show never just buy a battery and sling it on i will test it again before fitting when it says its charged

also changed the fuel filter and tested the intank pump result no fuel out so new pump on order £180 vdo one, and changed the inlet manifold gaskets as they were weeping and found the map pipe was a bit split, oil change tomorrow and grease the props

hope the pump arrives early next week not looking forward to dropping the tank, at least i have some new tank filler hose ready and waiting

all this to get the car ready to tow the tin tent to wales next weekend will cost more than the holiday

How long did the last VDO pump last?

brianp38dse · Aug 13, 2023

Grrrrrr said:
How long did the last VDO pump last?

I have no idea i have not changed it in the 16 years i have had the car, if the new one last the same i would be very happy :vb-biggrin:

kermit_rr · Aug 13, 2023

Re. The pulsing i can feel when cruise control is engaged, read it can be due to engine management doing dpf regen magic.
Used to always do it when i first got the car, now i don't notice it so much

doriz · Aug 13, 2023

Right sports fans she’s out. Plenty of PG and extension bar and a lump hammer. Once you get it going it’s quite easy, just remember to keep backing the bolts off a bit. Best add 4x new hub bolts as they’re trashed.
I will say I’d not have won this battle without the advice from LZ - hopefully the swivel comes off easy

Flossie · Aug 13, 2023

doriz said:
Right sports fans she’s out. Plenty of PG and extension bar and a lump hammer. Once you get it going it’s quite easy, just remember to keep backing the bolts off a bit. Best add 4x new hub bolts as they’re trashed.
I will say I’d not have won this battle without the advice from LZ - hopefully the swivel comes off easy

Top and bottom swivel ball joints?
This is where the real pain starts(for me it was anyway)

Datatek · Aug 13, 2023

doriz said:
Right sports fans she’s out. Plenty of PG and extension bar and a lump hammer. Once you get it going it’s quite easy, just remember to keep backing the bolts off a bit. Best add 4x new hub bolts as they’re trashed.
I will say I’d not have won this battle without the advice from LZ - hopefully the swivel comes off easy

I found an electric heat gun helped with removal played on the housing. I put the new swivels in the deep freeze for 24 hours and again heated the housing and the new swivels slid in easily.

rich28uk · Aug 13, 2023

weather allowed me to finally get the side steps off, drivers side was easy passenger side needed cutting off. Took sill covers off to check rust condition, about 4 inches from rear is flakey and goes through when really hit with pointed chipping hammer, need to cut that and weld new in, luckily not major repair, rest of it got blasted with chain wax to keep corrosion off, other than the rear corners rest is almost like new considering age of the car, 2006.

doriz · Aug 13, 2023

Flossie said:
Top and bottom swivel ball joints?
This is where the real pain starts(for me it was anyway)

Ha ha, you considered motivational speaking? The bottom joint boot is split and phoobared. I might have winged a mot but better to tackle the job. I have the top and bottom and a new oil seal whilst it’s out. Just the arb bushes and new track rods and she’s good to go for mot.

doriz · Aug 13, 2023

Datatek said:
I found an electric heat gun helped with removal played on the housing. I put the new swivels in the deep freeze for 24 hours and again heated the housing and the new swivels slid in easily.

Plenty suggest ball joints in freezer overnight before fitting. Coupled with some heat in theory job should be ‘ansom, that is unless I get @Flossie ‘d.

doriz · Aug 13, 2023

Flossie said:
Top and bottom swivel ball joints?
This is where the real pain starts(for me it was anyway)

Did you use a pickle fork to break the tapers or an extending splitter?

Datatek · Aug 13, 2023

doriz said:
Did you use a pickle fork to break the tapers or an extending splitter?

I used a fork, I have a small set of differeent sizes.

Flossie · Aug 13, 2023

doriz said:
Did you use a pickle fork to break the tapers or an extending splitter?

It isn't breaking the taper that's the issue really it's getting the bodies of the balljoints out of the yoke.
I got one of those G clamp type presses , the more expensive one with more 'bits' in it, circa £70 iirc but it was still a struggle even with lots of heat. Feckin horrible job from start to finish but the car had been standing for 5 yrs on grass and under a tree and everything was a blob of rust around there. My thread ' Duchess is in the garage' has stuff and pics which you may find useful and shows the quality of my work :vb-lol:

Datatek · Aug 13, 2023

Flossie said:
It isn't breaking the taper that's the issue really it's getting the bodies of the balljoints out of the yoke.
I got one of those G clamp type presses , the more expensive one with more 'bits' in it, circa £70 iirc but it was still a struggle even with lots of heat. Feckin horrible job from start to finish but the car had been standing for 5 yrs on grass and under a tree and everything was a blob of rust around there. My thread ' Duchess is in the garage' has stuff and pics which you may find useful and shows the quality of my work

I used a G clamp press and they came out with no trouble even on the one that had been stood in a field for years.

doriz · Aug 13, 2023

I have a press kit and mines not been stood in a field for years :banana:

I have seen footage of D2 owners struggle to get the swivel off and it’s very similar. Anyhoo that’s the next job so I’ll keep all posted.

1988smithy · Aug 13, 2023

rich28uk said:
weather allowed me to finally get the side steps off, drivers side was easy passenger side needed cutting off. Took sill covers off to check rust condition, about 4 inches from rear is flakey and goes through when really hit with pointed chipping hammer, need to cut that and weld new in, luckily not major repair, rest of it got blasted with chain wax to keep corrosion off, other than the rear corners rest is almost like new considering age of the car, 2006.

Jacking points ok?

kermit_rr · Aug 13, 2023

Just had a look at the diag thingy, apparently there is water present in the fool filter

can you drain it off or new filter required?

Datatek · Aug 13, 2023

kermit_rr said:
Just had a look at the diag thingy, apparently there is water present in the fool filter can you drain it off or new filter required?

Could just be RR misinformation

aj1954 · Aug 13, 2023

kermit_rr said:
Just had a look at the diag thingy, apparently there is water present in the fool filter can you drain it off or new filter required?

I'd be concerned how it got there in the first place, could you have filled up with contaminated fuel somewhere?

kermit_rr · Aug 13, 2023

Datatek said:
Could just be RR misinformation

Could be. I don't know if/when filter was replaced though. Sensor could be buggered, haven't figured out how it knows.. yet

kermit_rr · Aug 13, 2023

aj1954 said:
I'd be concerned how it got there in the first place, could you have filled up with contaminated fuel somewhere?

No idea

What did you do with your Range Rover today

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