What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Flossie said:
Oil, oil filter,fuel filter and air filter change on the 38, slight top up of coolent and washer fluid. Everything looks OK under the bonnet after 5000 miles except for an oil leak which is covering the top of the steering box and around the short elbow blow side of turbo. Spent ages with a rag and torch in the pit but blowed if I can see where the leak is coming from, not atf, engine oil. No where near as leaky as a tratter but enough to be annoying.
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Check the pie/filter thing from rocker cover to air intake for turbo. If it don't seat into rocker cover properly will likely leak a bit
 
brianp38dse said:
Only been back shooting a couple of week having not pick the bow up in 2 1/2 years i should have gone down in poundage but just use it as it was all set up from were i left of straight in with 36lb limbs i am feeling it a bit:(
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I have a 40 odd pound self bow, haven't shot it for a couple of years due to health problems and then just being lazy, made up a target stand for it this spring but just haven't got round to using it.:(:(:(
 
frog hopper said:
I have a 40 odd pound self bow, haven't shot it for a couple of years due to health problems and then just being lazy, made up a target stand for it this spring but just haven't got round to using it.:(:(:(
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All i can say is take it slow and warm the bow up first before drawing it, one of my brothers had a 60lb long bow that was a challenge it was as much as i could do to draw it and release, no chance of holding and aiming, he sold it in the end as having come of motor bikes and two shoulder opps he could not use it:(
 
brianp38dse said:
All i can say is take it slow and warm the bow up first before drawing it, one of my brothers had a 60lb long bow that was a challenge it was as much as i could do to draw it and release, no chance of holding and aiming, he sold it in the end as having come of motor bikes and two shoulder opps he could not use it:(
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When I was a kid I made a longbow in a sort of after school club thing, took us a couple of months at one evening a week. Twot that was the instructor didn't tell us about warming the bow up first, I bust mine the first time I put an arrow on the string. Literally finished the nocks, put the string on it, took it outside to line up on the target and there was a huge bang, lucky I wasn't hurt, as it was I was a very angry 14 year old.:mad::mad::mad:
 
brianp38dse said:
All i can say is take it slow and warm the bow up first before drawing it, one of my brothers had a 60lb long bow that was a challenge it was as much as i could do to draw it and release, no chance of holding and aiming, he sold it in the end as having come of motor bikes and two shoulder opps he could not use it:(
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Good tip. My father broke his going straight in when he was rushing to shoot something.

A friend's father-in-law had an 90lb longbow of classic design but couldn't draw it! I could at the time but not sure I could now, not accurately anyway.

I've heard the 200lb story before. No idea how true it is. I'm told there's a record of a Norman lord that got hit in the leg on the Welsh Marches and it went through plate armour, through the chain mail (holey metal!), through his leg, through chain, plate and then horse to the other leg, through the plate and chain and then stuck in the second leg. Having pulled a 90lb bow I can believe it. There's no way you can get the arrows out without a puller unless you stand a ridiculously long way away.

Just use an air rifle now. Not as powerful but a lot easier to use and astonishing accurate over short range. I miss the real thing though. I can see why we're not allowed proper arms in this country though so I can live with it. It isn't like a need to take down big game to eat.
 
Flossie said:
Same as I pay, key and windscreen cover plus drive any other car too.
Pleased to say the rangey passed her mot. 4 advisorys, slight oil leak, slight play in the balljoint coming off the drop arm(all new last mot, less than 6k miles) and both front tyres wearing close to the limit on the inside edges, all 4 tyres brand new avons and tracked 12months ago, and, again, 6k miles old:eek::eek:.
Could this be a sign of the VC shagged? It passed the VC test during the rebuild though?
Possible the long established landy indy messed up the tracking I suppose.
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Tracking checked at a different place and it was out, so looks like my local indy didn't do it correctly(unlikely) or just forgot to do it when it went in for aircon leak test and tracking.
Nsf and osf tyres checked for leaks(they lose pressure) and they tell me the rim beads need refurbing as they are too corroded to seal 100%. Hurricane alloys, so guess that means a light skim at a alloy wheel place?
 
Flossie said:
Nsf and osf tyres checked for leaks(they lose pressure) and they tell me the rim beads need refurbing as they are too corroded to seal 100%. Hurricane alloys, so guess that means a light skim at a alloy wheel place?
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Break the beads and give them a wire brush to remove all the flakey stuff, apply some good Lube:eek: and they will be good for a while;), you could make a bit of effort and put some rattle can for ally on them first.
Dont need a skim just a refurb of paint really:).

J
 
marjon said:
Break the beads and give them a wire brush to remove all the flakey stuff, apply some good Lube:eek: and they will be good for a while;), you could make a bit of effort and put some rattle can for ally on them first.
Dont need a skim just a refurb of paint really:).

J
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And if it does seal after that a squirt of tyre weld. It isn't like it'll be going fast anywhere.
 
Otto is home with 13 months MOT and just a few minor advisories. Slight oil leaks from engine (front main seal and sump seal) and gearbox (solenoid area) but very slight on both, dirt / oil on the metal brake lines, and some age related corrosion.
Can certainly live with that.
 
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