What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Bix said:
On to the next problem. #1 Seems to be sitting in fuel. Replaced the spill off pipe as that seems to be a reoccurring problem (hard to start after sitting overnight) since spill off seems to be absolutely dog ****e these days. But I am starting to wonder if there is an issue with #1. It only ever seems to be that injector that gets wet, all of the others are always bone dry. I get there is a recess so it can hold fuel, but it seems excessive.

[Edit: For reference, I could hear air being sucked into the system after I shutdown.]
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Check the injector pipe nut is tight.
 
Datatek said:
Check the injector pipe nut is tight.
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I checked the usual things. I am guessing these have crush washers? Because I'd #1s has failed. Engine running I get all of the bubbles.

20220523_104058.jpg
 
Datatek said:
No washer between pipe and injector. The braid on the leak off pipe is wet quite high up which is why I think there may be a leak from the joint pipe to injector body.
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The bubbles are from the base of the injector and the head. Which says at least some compression is escaping. I did have these injectors refurbished a lot of years ago. So possible they have popped again? The wet does stop at around the base of the nut, but unless they're crossthreaded on are as tight as a bastard.
I'll have to dig further when I have some time off work.

Never rains but it pours.
 
Bix said:
The bubbles are from the base of the injector and the head. Which says at least some compression is escaping. I did have these injectors refurbished a lot of years ago. So possible they have popped again? The wet does stop at around the base of the nut, but unless they're crossthreaded on are as tight as a bastard.
I'll have to dig further when I have some time off work.

Never rains but it pours.
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There is a washer where the injector screws into the head. Could just be a bit loose which may have knackered the washer.
The injectors are very long lived, 241000km's on one of mine and still working fine. I have had the bubbles at the base of an injector, I pulled it out, fitted a new washer and re-fitted it. Since then it's been fine.
 
Bix said:
On to the next problem. #1 Seems to be sitting in fuel. Replaced the spill off pipe as that seems to be a reoccurring problem (hard to start after sitting overnight) since spill off seems to be absolutely dog ****e these days. But I am starting to wonder if there is an issue with #1. It only ever seems to be that injector that gets wet, all of the others are always bone dry. I get there is a recess so it can hold fuel, but it seems excessive.

[Edit: For reference, I could hear air being sucked into the system after I shutdown.]
Click to expand...
Definitely leak of pipes, both of them. They can look ok with the braiding but the internal pipe just rots away . I know from experience
 
I've got issues:rolleyes:.
Abs and tc lights came on last week, switched off the engine and restarted, all good again.
Yesterday they have come on permently :eek:.
Got the nano out (I'm very green with it:oops:) and its showing no voltage RH rear sensor so a quick cuppa and I'll check that out.
I presume RH rear is as you are facing the tailgate? I've read somewhere that nano info is wrong side for something, blend motors is it?
 
Datatek said:
But that will not cause bubbles at the base of the injector.
Click to expand...
With mine it was full of diesel round injector and what appeared to be bubbles coming out. When I cleaned and dried all around injector no bubbles. Presumed engine vibration gave the appearance of bubbles. Can only say this was what it was on my no1 injector and when I had replaced leak off pipe from injector to FIP problem solved. Worth looking at
 
Rubberknees said:
With mine it was full of diesel round injector and what appeared to be bubbles coming out. When I cleaned and dried all around injector no bubbles. Presumed engine vibration gave the appearance of bubbles. Can only say this was what it was on my no1 injector and when I had replaced leak off pipe from injector to FIP problem solved. Worth looking at
Click to expand...
No liquid = no bubbles:)
 
Dopey said:
I don't know if anyone is interested in this, it's just lying around the garden from when I sold my P38, the reason I put it here and not in the for sale section is, I know you lot, I don't want someone to buy it and sell it on to make a profit (I could do that)
Anyway it's a RR P38 boot liner (I almost sure it) OEM, you will have to pick it up from TW19 7TB I don't have that many stamps to stick on to it, and I am not going to wrap it, make me an offer? It was dirty, but the wife cleaned it up a lot, and it could do with a better clean up, no damage on it that I can see, it's made of plastic or fibreglass (the latter I think) but here it is PM me some picks for you.......

View attachment 265519 View attachment 265520
View attachment 265521 View attachment 265522
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I'll take that off your hands. No idea what it is worth though.

I need a driver's mat too if you see one somewhere.
 
Flossie said:
I've got issues:rolleyes:.
Abs and tc lights came on last week, switched off the engine and restarted, all good again.
Yesterday they have come on permently :eek:.
Got the nano out (I'm very green with it:oops:) and its showing no voltage RH rear sensor so a quick cuppa and I'll check that out.
I presume RH rear is as you are facing the tailgate? I've read somewhere that nano info is wrong side for something, blend motors is it?
Click to expand...
That rear OS abs sensor plug was a bugger to get at without removing the wheel well liner but I did it, connector showing 5 volts dc.
I'll go check the rear NS voltage just incase the nano is wrong.
No faults showing on the nanocom apart from that no voltage reading on rh rear sensor.
Just thought..I should have done a resistance reading on that os sensor, my mates dse had the abs and tc lights on and his nsf sensor had open circuit and a new sensor put out both lamps so hoping mine will do the same.o_O
 
Grrrrrr said:
Rangie went straight through its MoT test again. Nice.

Anyone know the part numbers for the engine oil cooler pipes on the manual p38 (oil burner)?
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Might be worth looking at the tech archive, someone has done a fix cheaply. Or any decent hydraulic hose place will do the job reusing the connectors, more cost though.
 
a company called think automotive do pipe and fittings you fit your self that don't need crimping, used them for a remote oil filter and cooler on my jag v12
 
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