What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Hmm.. LPG.. my system comes with wires to connect to the lambda sensors. The wiring diagram clearly states DO NOT CONNECT THESE WIRES.
Really!? Why provide them if they shouldn't be used? I'm feeling stupid.

It's like having a BIG RED BUTTON on the dash saying DO NOT PRESS :rolleyes:
Unless it's a generic kit for V8's? o_O
 
Nothing with her today but installed this!
IMG-20211017-WA0010.jpg
and redid this..
IMG_20211017_144824.jpg
 
Tried to set up lpg again. Failed, again!! I didn't think it was supposed to be this hard!! As soon as i switch to LPG to start setting it up. The petrol ecu sees a bad mixture and starts trying to adjust before i have time to make any changes.
Can't remember if I've asked before, but in a Thor engine, is a negative number saying it's too rich or too lean?
 
Tried to set up lpg again. Failed, again!! I didn't think it was supposed to be this hard!! As soon as i switch to LPG to start setting it up. The petrol ecu sees a bad mixture and starts trying to adjust before i have time to make any changes.
Can't remember if I've asked before, but in a Thor engine, is a negative number saying it's too rich or too lean?
I think negative means too lean?

The value of short term fuel trim is calculated by the ECU by subtracting the actual value of fuelling required by the engine (measured by the oxygen sensors) from the expected (open loop) value, as stored in the fuelling tune. The values are calculated separately for each bank of the engine. The value is shown as a ratio between 0:1 (maximum enleanment) and 2:1 (Maximum enrichment).
 
seriously thinking about scrapping this thing :mad: Wrestled with rear shaft all day got the UJ half off the rear but its taken 2 circlip pliers and my new g clamp is way out of shape. Cant get UJ out the back or the front of the shaft so its just hanging there. Not got the tool to get to shaft bolts, no idea how im getting to work tomorrow but one of my knuckles is the size of a bollock so ive pretty much given up today. Damn RangeRovers! :mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
seriously thinking about scrapping this thing :mad: Wrestled with rear shaft all day got the UJ half off the rear but its taken 2 circlip pliers and my new g clamp is way out of shape. Cant get UJ out the back or the front of the shaft so its just hanging there. Not got the tool to get to shaft bolts, no idea how im getting to work tomorrow but one of my knuckles is the size of a bollock so ive pretty much given up today. Damn RangeRovers! :mad::mad::mad::mad:
Can you still drive it on the front shaftor is it just the rear shaft? :eek:
Sorry to hear @RangeRoller dt
 
On wood @Datatek, the last wood burner was a 22kw and was way too big and always on minimum. Never a good thing, this one is a 80% burn rate and is a 10kw. A triple burn don't you knowo_O we looked at a catalyst burn wood burner also and a granule burner.. But the granule burner doesn't work in a power outage and needs a yearly maintenance for the electrical motors and mechanisms. ;)
 
seriously thinking about scrapping this thing :mad: Wrestled with rear shaft all day got the UJ half off the rear but its taken 2 circlip pliers and my new g clamp is way out of shape. Cant get UJ out the back or the front of the shaft so its just hanging there. Not got the tool to get to shaft bolts, no idea how im getting to work tomorrow but one of my knuckles is the size of a bollock so ive pretty much given up today. Damn RangeRovers! :mad::mad::mad::mad:
Easy Outs?
 
On wood @Datatek, the last wood burner was a 22kw and was way too big and always on minimum. Never a good thing, this one is a 80% burn rate and is a 10kw. A triple burn don't you knowo_O we looked at a catalyst burn wood burner also and a granule burner.. But the granule burner doesn't work in a power outage and needs a yearly maintenance for the electrical motors and mechanisms. ;)
Looks good Mark,I installed a 12kw wood burner in our first villa on mainland Spain,it was manufactured in France it had two fans that drew cool air into vents at the base of the and circulated it around the back which was like a heat exchanger and blew hot air out of top vents. Very efficient with air coming out at 120 degrees.
 
On wood @Datatek, the last wood burner was a 22kw and was way too big and always on minimum. Never a good thing, this one is a 80% burn rate and is a 10kw. A triple burn don't you knowo_O we looked at a catalyst burn wood burner also and a granule burner.. But the granule burner doesn't work in a power outage and needs a yearly maintenance for the electrical motors and mechanisms. ;)
Looks good Mark. Not in favour of granules, as you say they need maintenance and of course the electrickery can always go wrong. Our wood burning cooking stove stove is 8KW to the back boiler plus the radiated heat, keeps the whole house warm unless it's very cold. Then we have the small wood burner in the salon.
 
Can you still drive it on the front shaftor is it just the rear shaft? :eek:
Sorry to hear @RangeRoller dt
just the rear shaft but cant get it off never seen Ujs this stuck in before :confused: removed the shaft from the diff so its hanging down at the rear but none of the others will budge so not driveable currently, bits of roller bearings everywhere. Think il have to get the prop shaft bolt tool and deal with it off the vehicle
 
just the rear shaft but cant get it off never seen Ujs this stuck in before :confused: removed the shaft from the diff so its hanging down at the rear but none of the others will budge so not driveable currently, bits of roller bearings everywhere. Think il have to get the prop shaft bolt tool and deal with it off the vehicle

Whats this special tool for the prop bolts, sorry to see your having a bit of bother matey.
Can you not make a tool.
 
I've always managed without one of those propshaft sockets, I usually lie underneath with the handbrake off (on the flat of course) and pull the vehicle along to get each bolt at the bottom and use a ring spanner. Then again I haven't touched a p38, only classic/d1/fender
 
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