what are these and is this normal

Hi all

I was helping a friend with his 2003 automatic td4 freelander today and found a couple of oddities:

1. the previous owner had removed the prop-shaft to the rear diff from the middle while leaving the front to the middle section in place.

I know that this is quite common practice (from reading up about it ) to remove the drive shaft but is it best to remove all shafts back to the diff and then use the blanking plate kit that's on ebay to seal it up and should there be a kit for the rear diff as per pic 1 there seems a lot of some sort of oil around it.

2. whats this unit in the engine bay to the right rear pic 2

3. also found this snugged away at the rhs of the engine bay and it looks like some sort of switch, didn't want to touch it just in case. but at some time additional wires had been spliced onto the wires so I put insulating tape around the exposed wire sections. pic 3

4. found a wire will a spade connector loose behind the drivers rear wheel that doesn't appear to have anywhere to go except scrape off the rear anti roll bar. pic 4.

5. also noticed that when switched to sport mode there is only access to first and second with foot-brake applied, should you not be able to increase it to third and forth as a test ?? ( not able to drive car to verify this )

6. the rear washer is not working and after removing the bottom of the cover under the bumper I removed both pipes and water flowed no problems. I then disconnected at the tailgate before the one way valve and there was still no flow.what direction does the tubing going to the rear washer take as I can find no leaks anywhere inside or outside the car.

7. oh and he gets the F4 on display intermittently along with a yellow hill descent led. I believe the F4 is fixed by adjusting the Parking portion of the gear box cable is that correct.

8. how can you tell if you have a bmw engine or not ?

Sorry for such a long entry but I'am a novice ( learning fast ) with land-rover products.

thanks for any help you can provide

regards

brendan

Phew - you might not many responses - too many things but I will do three

Propshaft - yes take it all off it saves weight - no need for any blanking plates.

The Red Switch - it allows you to shut off the fuel pump so if you have the fuel lines open and you crank the engine it doesn't pump out all over the place

BMW Engine - if it's a TD4 he has the BMW engine

the baloon type thing is to do with your servo brakes if you pull the pipe of your brakes will go hard also check the pipe down to the pump these ware on the side of the tube and creat the same problem 5 mm pipe will do the trick if you get that problem

pic 4 is the fuel cut of switch under the bonnet rhs. in the event of an impact, pops up and cuts the fuel supply, push to reset. worth checking if you ever get a cut out or fail to start.

in sport mode, then using manual selection, you will only ever be able to select 1 or 2. This is known as tiptronic or command shift. the computer will only let you select a suitable gear for the engine revs and vehicle speed, to avoid damage

Hi

many thanks for at least removing 2 of the items. I thought that a blanking plate is needed once you remove the front prop-shaft ? .

like i say I'am a novice but getting there :-D

thanks

brendan

hi Optimus Prime,Teddywood1 & angeloc

thanks for all your help phew, great to be in a forum of experts many thanks for all your help is greatly appreciated.

now the only 2 items remaining are the dangling spade wire connection at the rear drivers wheel and the path of the rear washer tubing?

brendan

Spade connector hanging down in the o/s/r wheelarch? Its the fuelpump grounding tab.

hi vissie

thanks for that , yes that's were it is alright where should it be grounded to or can i make up another grounded connector and join them up ?

thanks again

brendan

brens-freelander said:

hi vissie

thanks for that , yes that's were it is alright where should it be grounded to or can i make up another grounded connector and join them up ?

thanks again

brendan

Click to expand...

I believe it is grounded on the fuel filter. The tab it locates to is often broken.

Also no blanking plate needed - it's just cosmetic on the prop removal

Yep , it is a tiny metal tag that traps between the fuel filter when you slide it into the plastic housing.


It isnt a 'required' to work.


But it is obviously there for a reason

Pull the tube off the rear wiper and see if water comes out when you operate the washer. If muck gets up the pipe it can block the small spray hole.

hi hippo

already tried that without success but thanks anyway. I can hear the motor working and fluid comes out of the washer bottle for both front and rear wash once tubing disconnected.

regards

brendan

Try blowing up the pipe to see if it's blocked. Will be easier if the pipe is disconnected from the rear wiper. Mione failed once. The small plastic pipe coming off the pump had a split in it.

hi all

thanks for all the help , working our way through them slowly. He had the hdc light on intermittently when started and we changed the brake switch and adapter cable but this fault is still there intermittently .

If started and no light shows then pressing the hdc switch on and off turns on and off the hdc led as expected so i don't believe we have a switch fault .

when turning it from 4 wheel to 2 wheel is it advisable to remove the whole prop-shaft assembly rather than just the rear prop-shaft going to the diff and then install the blanking kit ??

thanks in advance

brendan

brens-freelander said:

hi all

thanks for all the help , working our way through them slowly. He had the hdc light on intermittently when started and we changed the brake switch and adapter cable but this fault is still there intermittently .

If started and no light shows then pressing the hdc switch on and off turns on and off the hdc led as expected so i don't believe we have a switch fault .

when turning it from 4 wheel to 2 wheel is it advisable to remove the whole prop-shaft assembly rather than just the rear prop-shaft going to the diff and then install the blanking kit ??

thanks in advance

brendan

Click to expand...

have just dropped the whole prop off mine and no blanking plate needed and i do prefer the way it drives now but its personal taste really. i put a post up for a fools guide to do it as im not too mech minded and it only took me an hour and a couple of sockets and spanners. the hdc stuff you prob want to look at the 3 amigos thread as it covers this a lot. im happy i dont have hdc on mine but ive no intention of off roading in it so its just something else to go wrong.

hi taxii

thanks for the info, so you left the ird section in place as per the attached photo or did you seal it up in anyway. ah this hdc seems to be a right royal pain , but we will keep on trying .

once again thanks for the help

brendan

brens-freelander said:

hi taxii

thanks for the info, so you left the ird section in place as per the attached photo or did you seal it up in anyway. ah this hdc seems to be a right royal pain , but we will keep on trying .

once again thanks for the help

brendan

Click to expand...

yup. just undid the 6 bolts on the front the 4 holding the centre and vcu up and the 4 at the back and dropped the shaft as 1 piece. i used 3/8 and 5/16 star sockets and 10 mil spanner front and 17 mil spanner back and 10mil socket for the centres. took me about half an hour but that was unjacked and on the road. i just got a mate to push the truck forward a foot to get at the bolts i couldnt reach. didnt use any blanking plates as they look sealed.

hi taxii

many thanks for that, really appreciate it. one more job to do as the previous owner only removed the rear prop so i don't know what strain is been put on the rest of the system including the IRD section by leaving the other piece running still attached ?.

thanks again

brendan