west yorks EAS expert ?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
HI all, well re-build 6 complete.. while i was at it.. i also rebuild the Air dryer.. and compressor..
used the Harder 'O' rings this time as per Wammers suggestion...
took my time, cleaned, all correct orientation... had a donor block too, so looked at the NRV's and chose the best looking ( rounder ). ones and replaced..

Pumped up a treat... took it to Wade height and took a look underneath.. ( if you remember the rear Pass side was the one kept dropping )... looks like the Air Bags have been replaced sometime before i got it.. Has nice clean and 'new' looking Dunlop bags all around...

i will leave over night and see what happens, but looking like the same rear Pass side might still be leaking... soapy water test around the block and lines showed no Leaks btw..
if this is so...
should i just leave things for a bit ? it's super cold out.. the block it's self is ice cold.. the 'O' rings will be hard etc.. and i did read it can take a while to bed things in...
forgot to say earlier.. i have also swapped the Rear Pass side valve over with one from the front.. and had no difference...
while at Wade height i tried to take a look and see where the Airline enters the bag, was wondering if the car being up and down onto Bump stops so much, had some how disturbed the line, and needed re-seating, or i have spare New 'o' rings.. but i can't see.. does it enter from the top ? and if so.. how do i best gain access to take a look ?
final observation today... as i had the Air Dryer out i took some of the plastic Wrap from around the airlines leaving the block...
Q. the small ( 4mm) line right at the far top right of the block.. what is it ? when i unwrapped the lines there is literally 6" or so of the small line and it just stopped.. it's Not connected to anything.. just a vent for air from the Diaphragm end ?

i'm becoming my Own EAS guru.. or at least i now know how it all comes apart.. now if only i could get it back with out this pesky leak.....

cheers as ever for the replies..
 
chopper007 said:
HI all, well re-build 6 complete.. while i was at it.. i also rebuild the Air dryer.. and compressor..
used the Harder 'O' rings this time as per Wammers suggestion...
took my time, cleaned, all correct orientation... had a donor block too, so looked at the NRV's and chose the best looking ( rounder ). ones and replaced..

Pumped up a treat... took it to Wade height and took a look underneath.. ( if you remember the rear Pass side was the one kept dropping )... looks like the Air Bags have been replaced sometime before i got it.. Has nice clean and 'new' looking Dunlop bags all around...

i will leave over night and see what happens, but looking like the same rear Pass side might still be leaking... soapy water test around the block and lines showed no Leaks btw..
if this is so...
should i just leave things for a bit ? it's super cold out.. the block it's self is ice cold.. the 'O' rings will be hard etc.. and i did read it can take a while to bed things in...
forgot to say earlier.. i have also swapped the Rear Pass side valve over with one from the front.. and had no difference...
while at Wade height i tried to take a look and see where the Airline enters the bag, was wondering if the car being up and down onto Bump stops so much, had some how disturbed the line, and needed re-seating, or i have spare New 'o' rings.. but i can't see.. does it enter from the top ? and if so.. how do i best gain access to take a look ?
final observation today... as i had the Air Dryer out i took some of the plastic Wrap from around the airlines leaving the block...
Q. the small ( 4mm) line right at the far top right of the block.. what is it ? when i unwrapped the lines there is literally 6" or so of the small line and it just stopped.. it's Not connected to anything.. just a vent for air from the Diaphragm end ?

i'm becoming my Own EAS guru.. or at least i now know how it all comes apart.. now if only i could get it back with out this pesky leak.....

cheers as ever for the replies..
Click to expand...

4 mm line just vents into the loom as you thought it is the vent for the diaphragm valve. Now that you have suspension up try pushing pipes into block you may find they will go in a little further. Gives a better seal.
 
thanks mate, yeah have already 'wiggled' all the pipes to dbl check..
looking at the car this eve, seams like i still have the rear pass issue somehow...
any more thoughts ?
 
chopper007 said:
thanks mate, yeah have already 'wiggled' all the pipes to dbl check..
looking at the car this eve, seams like i still have the rear pass issue somehow...
any more thoughts ?
Click to expand...

Well now you have done the block it has to be down to anything backwards of that. Line, bag or connection to it. Be aware though the airline for the N/S rear bag goes down the R/H side of the car then across body to the bag. Likewise the line for the O/S bag goes down the N/S of the car.
 
ha ha of course it does.. !!
do you know how i can easily get to the rear bag connection ?
i will try trace the line back and see if there is any damage or after market bodge / repair in the line too..
as you say it 'must' be after the block now... and or like i said earlier.. maybe just needs to bed into the block and settle a bit ??
 
chopper007 said:
ha ha of course it does.. !!
do you know how i can easily get to the rear bag connection ?
i will try trace the line back and see if there is any damage or after market bodge / repair in the line too..
as you say it 'must' be after the block now... and or like i said earlier.. maybe just needs to bed into the block and settle a bit ??
Click to expand...

you may like to take out wheel arch liners for access to rear bag connections

also tubing can be damaged by hot/blowing exhaust
 
You can see and access the pipe entry to the rear air bag through the gap between the liner and the chassis, give the pipe a good push, it may not be fully seated.
As Druim said, exhaust blows can cause pin hole leaks in the pipes. You can eliminate this possibility by running a temporary pipe from the block to the airbag.
 
Update !
ok guys, so checked the car this morning.. as i thought.. Pass side rear was dropped as feared..

BUT.. when i jumped in and started her up.. the car came right unto height in 10-15 seconds !! although it indicated a drop on the display ( switch )...
so what do we think .? i'm inclined to leave it and see how things go / settle in..
Datatek, i chased the Air lines as you and Wammers suggested...
mid way down the car i found 2 inLine connectors on the airlines to the rear.. this would suggest that they have been replaced when the Bags were changed ?
i lost track of them as then went over the top of the fuel tank... i haven't popped off the wheel liners to check the top of the bag as yet ( are then just 'snap' connectors ?
i did spray the inLine connectors i found.. gave them a wiggle / push etc.. couldn't detect a leak...
block sprayed and still all good too..

i have seen someplace online a Mod which stops the Relay trying to level the car when the key isn't in the ignition.. maybe thats where i'm loosing some are ( due to the jaunty angle of the drive. and the cars desire to be Level All the time )...

any more thoughts ??
 
chopper007 said:
Update !
ok guys, so checked the car this morning.. as i thought.. Pass side rear was dropped as feared..

BUT.. when i jumped in and started her up.. the car came right unto height in 10-15 seconds !! although it indicated a drop on the display ( switch )...
so what do we think .? i'm inclined to leave it and see how things go / settle in..
Datatek, i chased the Air lines as you and Wammers suggested...
mid way down the car i found 2 inLine connectors on the airlines to the rear.. this would suggest that they have been replaced when the Bags were changed ?
i lost track of them as then went over the top of the fuel tank... i haven't popped off the wheel liners to check the top of the bag as yet ( are then just 'snap' connectors ?
i did spray the inLine connectors i found.. gave them a wiggle / push etc.. couldn't detect a leak...
block sprayed and still all good too..

i have seen someplace online a Mod which stops the Relay trying to level the car when the key isn't in the ignition.. maybe thats where i'm loosing some are ( due to the jaunty angle of the drive. and the cars desire to be Level All the time )...

any more thoughts ??
Click to expand...

If all is good, the car may drop a little overnight but it will stay level across the corners, I park mine much of the time at a fair angle and it moves very little. No mods needed or recommended, if there is a leak it will still drop.
I still think there may be a leak where the pipe enters the airbag housing which as I said can be accessed without removing the wheel arch liner.
 
ahh, ok i miss read..

so how do i access it Without removing the liner , i fear this can be the only place i have a little leak... i have soared 'o' rings that will fit the top of the bag.. so would def like to look if i can without removing half the car
 
chopper007 said:
ahh, ok i miss read..

so how do i access it Without removing the liner , i fear this can be the only place i have a little leak... i have soared 'o' rings that will fit the top of the bag.. so would def like to look if i can without removing half the car
Click to expand...

The pipe goes in between body and chassis. There is a gap you can get at the pipe through. Taking the arch liner out won't do anything to improve access.
 
ok i will have another look tomorrow if it hasn't snowed too much !!.. i was under the car today, but couldn't see the connector.. i'm hoping this is just the o ring.. if i find it, can i get to the line to replace the o ring.. or will this then be wise to try remove the liner ?
 
chopper007 said:
ok i will have another look tomorrow if it hasn't snowed too much !!.. i was under the car today, but couldn't see the connector.. i'm hoping this is just the o ring.. if i find it, can i get to the line to replace the o ring.. or will this then be wise to try remove the liner ?
Click to expand...

You can remove the liner if you want to but where pipe goes is clearly visible if you get a torch and look between liner and chassis above axle you will need the wheel off of course.
 
chopper007 said:
Update !
ok guys, so checked the car this morning.. as i thought.. Pass side rear was dropped as feared..

BUT.. when i jumped in and started her up.. the car came right unto height in 10-15 seconds !! although it indicated a drop on the display ( switch )...
so what do we think .? i'm inclined to leave it and see how things go / settle in..
Datatek, i chased the Air lines as you and Wammers suggested...
mid way down the car i found 2 inLine connectors on the airlines to the rear.. this would suggest that they have been replaced when the Bags were changed ?
i lost track of them as then went over the top of the fuel tank... i haven't popped off the wheel liners to check the top of the bag as yet ( are then just 'snap' connectors ?
i did spray the inLine connectors i found.. gave them a wiggle / push etc.. couldn't detect a leak...
block sprayed and still all good too..

i have seen someplace online a Mod which stops the Relay trying to level the car when the key isn't in the ignition.. maybe thats where i'm loosing some are ( due to the jaunty angle of the drive. and the cars desire to be Level All the time )...

any more thoughts ??
Click to expand...

if it's Stefan's mod you refer to, i have done it and very happy with it: Range Rover P38 EAS modifications improvements and tips learned by experience by ownership.

leaving the car for long periods and it just doesn't move at all, before it went to the stops thanks to constant self leveling.
another good thing is, if one or more corners are low i know i have a leak/problem + the battery seems to have more beef after a long stand still

removing a liner takes a minute and you can see whats behind, hardly half a car, maybe not needed but i'm sure you will figure out whats whats and the easiest way around tasks when you have done it once or twice.

NB: Range Rovers aren't cars, they're sort of hobbies:);)
 
Druim said:
if it's Stefan's mod you refer to, i have done it and very happy with it: Range Rover P38 EAS modifications improvements and tips learned by experience by ownership.

leaving the car for long periods and it just doesn't move at all, before it went to the stops thanks to constant self leveling.
another good thing is, if one or more corners are low i know i have a leak/problem + the battery seems to have more beef after a long stand still

removing a liner takes a minute and you can see whats behind, hardly half a car, maybe not needed but i'm sure you will figure out whats whats and the easiest way around tasks when you have done it once or twice.

NB: Range Rovers aren't cars, they're sort of hobbies:);)
Click to expand...
You are joking when you say the liner can be removed in minutes?
Grind the heads off rusty screws, find mud flap metal stiffeners have rusted away so need replacing etc etc. Then you find access is not much better.
If the EAS is in good order, no mods are needed, I can leave min for 2/3 weeks and it is still not on the bump stops.
 
Datatek said:
You are joking when you say the liner can be removed in minutes?
Grind the heads off rusty screws, find mud flap metal stiffeners have rusted away so need replacing etc etc. Then you find access is not much better.
If the EAS is in good order, no mods are needed, I can leave min for 2/3 weeks and it is still not on the bump stops.
Click to expand...

Correct. Modifying in such a manner is just covering a fault cause by bad maintenance. Doing that is like lifting a wheel if you leave the car for any length of time to reduce the air loss from a slow puncture. A drop of 15 mm in 24 hrs is acceptable i suggest if you are leaving the car for any length of time dropping it to access height. Mine stays up with little drop for weeks on end. No flat battery no problems.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ar1g3
P38A Which EAS repair kit to get?
Replies
18
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Flossie
P38A Eas issues
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
Montyjohn
P38A A couple of queries about rebuild EAS valve block
Replies
9
Views
685
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
pwood999
P38A Asthmatic EAS Exhaust Port !!
Replies
6
Views
640
pwood999
pwood999
300bhp/ton
P38A Vale block removal??
Replies
5
Views
780
Rubberknees
Rubberknees
Back
Top