L322 Well well well, look what the cat dragged in..

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Well I have broken ground on my new project, one spark plug was already out, cylinder 3 so I guess that’s the baddy but spark plug 4 looks very oily.
The inside of the cam covers leads me to think it still has the original oil in it that it left the factory with...
5A1207A4-FFF4-4807-AD09-2EABAD15C65B.jpeg

7985152F-6437-4CCB-8DF0-EB0C4B0A8035.jpeg

That’s all I got for now ...
 
I was thinking the same although i have seen a lot worse. Needless to say i will be pulling this apart down to it's last woodscrew and piece of gorilla tape
 
holidaychicken said:
I was thinking the same although i have seen a lot worse. Needless to say i will be pulling this apart down to it's last woodscrew and piece of gorilla tape
Click to expand...
Had it been run for a long time without at thermostat? My mates CX looked the same,when the thermostat was replaced and ran at normal temp.all that crap ended up in the sump and kept blocking the oil pick up strainer.it took quite a few oil changes to sort it. At least the CX had a plate on the sump to give you access to the strainer.
 
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Well I whipped the heads off today and it could be worse , only 7 out of the 8 bores look like “ please insert own inuendo relating to ragged bores here please”
I’m not sure if the aluminium liners are suitable for repairing all the bores so it could be iron liners or scrap as I’d like to keep the standard pistons if possible.
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It is almost as bad as it can be but I suppose that is sort of the idea, there are some interesting developments with coating technology but whether that is feasible for reconditioning is the first question and the second is if it means different pistons and rings are required to run in that material then you might as well use iron or steel liners. My issue at the moment is getting the Jesus bolt out without the engine being bolted to 2.5 tonnes of car. I need to borrow the 5 ft breaker bar again and I can use the holding tool against the floor, I may just have to get Alan to sit on the block in his favourite reverse cow girl position while I work the 5 ft pole and hope nothing breaks ..:)
 
If looked after the engines run for over 200K miles or more, But the close cylinders are a challenge when looking at reconditioning, I haven’t measured but the wall thickness is 6 mm approx and the minimum wall thickness of the Alusil liners is 1.5 mm so that only leaves 3 mm maximum of original material.
I am looking at other options regarding ‘special’ liners.
 
I
holidaychicken said:
It is almost as bad as it can be but I suppose that is sort of the idea, there are some interesting developments with coating technology but whether that is feasible for reconditioning is the first question and the second is if it means different pistons and rings are required to run in that material then you might as well use iron or steel liners. My issue at the moment is getting the Jesus bolt out without the engine being bolted to 2.5 tonnes of car. I need to borrow the 5 ft breaker bar again and I can use the holding tool against the floor, I may just have to get Alan to sit on the block in his favourite reverse cow girl position while I work the 5 ft pole and hope nothing breaks ..:)
Click to expand...
I'm on my way with my cow girl outfit, I cannot resist you pole dancing. :D:D
 
As much as I love my little 1/4” ratchet, stepping it up to a 3/4 drive to undo my crank bolt just wasn’t working..
It was time for a bit of red neck engineering.
I tried a 6 foot breaker bar but the engine kept lifting so I strapped it down to a large plank of wood, parked my RR on the plank and bob’s your mothers brother :)
Options for this engine.
Sleeve down to 4.0, sleeve to 4.4 but leaves cylinders perilously close together, bore out to 4.6 and rehone but damage is deep and pistons are expensive or rare, steel or iron liners and new pistons, bore out damage, hone and make myself some custom pistons and whatever happens it is destined for a supercharger and or the bin
F823D84F-C3E3-4FE1-81DF-129995596AB6.jpeg

That’s not a breaker bar , this is a breaker bar.
This one is small , that one is far away ...
2C649B5A-C2C7-458C-8267-C50F2D2A5778.jpeg
 
holidaychicken said:
As much as I love my little 1/4” ratchet, stepping it up to a 3/4 drive to undo my crank bolt just wasn’t working..
It was time for a bit of red neck engineering.
I tried a 6 foot breaker bar but the engine kept lifting so I strapped it down to a large plank of wood, parked my RR on the plank and bob’s your mothers brother :)
Options for this engine.
Sleeve down to 4.0, sleeve to 4.4 but leaves cylinders perilously close together, bore out to 4.6 and rehone but damage is deep and pistons are expensive or rare, steel or iron liners and new pistons, bore out damage, hone and make myself some custom pistons and whatever happens it is destined for a supercharger and or the bin
View attachment 157976
That’s not a breaker bar , this is a breaker bar.
This one is small , that one is far away ...
View attachment 157979
Click to expand...
Got to love that 1/4 drive ratchet pic!
 
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