Howdy doo!
Just a few photos and tips on Velding that has been done today!
Back cross member thingy at back below door on D1
View attachment 145829 I premake my repair pannel first and draw around it with chalk. Always go at least 2 inches past your last bit of rust! As it may look solid but it won't be
View attachment 145831using thin cutting discs , cut on the lines you have drawn ! Its is easier to sand some metal off later than to fill big feckin gaps!
Once cut out paint the inside of the cross member with paint (obviously)
View attachment 145832 I tack little bits of metal on the edges of my repair pannel as it helps for it to sit flush ! Some people use magnets to hold the pannel in place but I have found you get loads of crappy bits of metal stuck to it and you end up with hairy magnets
View attachment 145833 you would ideally put a tack every 30mm. this prevents the pannel distorting when welding ! Also stagger your welds , do a bit at the left , then the opposite side then the middle then the left blah blah blah! You get the idea! It stops heat build up and prevents it warping!!
Ideally you should have a gap of 1 mm to aid with penetration, as we all love penetration! But when using 1.2 mm thick steel its difficult and you start blowing holes through if your an intermediate skilled welder. If you do blow holes, just join lots of little tacks together until it fills the gap!! It ain't an oil rig we are welding so it don't have to be Perfik. Little pick of my welding
View attachment 145835once welded, grind the feker down flush!! The aim of grinding is to only take the weld off and not grind into the patch or vehicle! We've all done it and ended up with geet big gouges !! Anyhoo after grinding then sanding , cover it with thick paint so nobody can see how rough your metalwork is
View attachment 145836 hope this helps people's
Weldy