waterproof v8

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

juiceyv8

New Member
Posts
4,738
Location
bordon hants
Loving the v8 however I went though a ford a bit to quick and it killed the electrics...lucky I carried enough speed to save getting wet:D
Pulled up, checked the airbox and no water But noticed the electrics were covered in water:doh: Sprayed the lecy bits with WD and it started again.:p:p
Whats the best way to waterproof the lecy parts??

juiceyv8:)
 
There isn't a whole lot you can do easily, you can buy a thing like a big rubber glove, one for the dizzy and one for the coil which covers em and the ends of the leads up. Some people reckon the dizzy needs to breathe to stop condensation in the cap and reccomend if you fit the glove to run a small breather from inside the cap to a high point or snorkel.

Others reckon on thick grease or waxoyl over the leccy bits, i tried waxoyl as i were spraying loads about anyhow but it made the coil short out between the king post and - terminal!

Mines now all clean and left alone, it gets through pretty deep water, just be a bit careful in really deep stuff, remember lr only reccomend a wading depth of 500mm! I've been over the bonnet and got away with it, just....
 
i assume you mean as a preventative measure? I wouldn't reccomend it, most of it will just burn/dry off and you can actually cause arcing of the elecs with anyhow, keep it in the boot in case and ford crossings a wee bit slower with a nice bow wave in front of you. It's not as much fun but better than a broken v8;)
 
i assume you mean as a preventative measure? I wouldn't reccomend it, most of it will just burn/dry off and you can actually cause arcing of the elecs with anyhow, keep it in the boot in case and ford crossings a wee bit slower with a nice bow wave in front of you. It's not as much fun but better than a broken v8;)

Thanks for the advice mate, lesson learnt;);););)
 
I used to run a V8 bobtail rangie and that would drop a cylinder as you approached any water and you'd be lucky to still have 4 running on the way out, I tried allsorts to waterproof it and in the end bought a diesel 90. I love the sound of the V8 but with the disi on the front of the motor it's always going to get wet!
 
there are bits you can do. I've seen a plastic splash guard a few times made from an ice cream tub or similar in front of the dizzy/ alternator. Obviously kenlowe fans will help with an isolator switch and the rubber glove things will help but yeh, it's never going to wade like a diesel will. I can't live without that v8 noise tho :D
Maybe i've been lucky with mine, the only time she went onto 6 was after going too deep on salisbury and she took a good slurp up the air filter :eek:
 
it's never going to wade like a diesel will.

Not entirely true!! I take my V8 swimming regularly and it is quite happy. Check out an old thread - "who says v8's don't swim" and if I remember well, I posted a video in one of the first threads in the V8 section " I want a V8"

If you want to get your V8 wet just make sure all your electrics are in tip top order. Put a splash guard in front of your dizzy and seal the dizzy cap with RTV silicon. Put grease in the ends of the plug leads and king lead. protect the coil as much as possible ( I have wrapped mine in plastic). Extend your axle and transmission breathers. Make sure your door seals are in reasonable shape, oh and it would help if you have a snorkel. You should be able to go in at least as deep as the bonnet with those slight modifications and deeper if you are brave enough.
 
Not entirely true!! I take my V8 swimming regularly and it is quite happy. Check out an old thread - "who says v8's don't swim" and if I remember well, I posted a video in one of the first threads in the V8 section " I want a V8"

If you want to get your V8 wet just make sure all your electrics are in tip top order. Put a splash guard in front of your dizzy and seal the dizzy cap with RTV silicon. Put grease in the ends of the plug leads and king lead. protect the coil as much as possible ( I have wrapped mine in plastic). Extend your axle and transmission breathers. Make sure your door seals are in reasonable shape, oh and it would help if you have a snorkel. You should be able to go in at least as deep as the bonnet with those slight modifications and deeper if you are brave enough.

Is that "Dielectric Grease," Classic Kev? is what I got on mine, seems to work good.
 
Ordinary grease will work - it's only there to stop the water getting in. As long as you keep a sound electrical contact should be fine. The down side is of course that with heat build up you do get a bit of goo if the grease melts. I've not had to rely onthis method but I know people who have done it to great success.
 
On the 4hp22 autobox what about the wading plug- obviously it should go in but if you are driving to work and the roads flooded do you have to lie on the ground in yer best shirt and fit it?

Whats the reason for not leaving it in permanantly?

I have always wondered!
 
On the 4hp22 autobox what about the wading plug- obviously it should go in but if you are driving to work and the roads flooded do you have to lie on the ground in yer best shirt and fit it?

Whats the reason for not leaving it in permanantly?

I have always wondered!

you can put it in if you want to, but it is not as necessary as in the manual, cause there are heaps in them that can get affected by contaminants, it's left out so landie can mark it's territory,;)
 
I have run my V8 thru rivers, and miles of floods in Oz . I have the head of the coil in a lexan box with silicon seals where the wires go in and out , this fixes the biggest weak point , the top of the coil. The export models sent to OZ were even worse than UK set up as the coil was mounted down low on side of radiator , at least mine (UK model) was originally mounted high on top of inside wing. I also made lexan box and mounted ign amp inside . The leads need to be in good condition, so they make good seal on plugs and distibutor cap, I also ran bead of RTV round cap joint. I drilled body of dizzy, not cap and fitted breather tube, same with both lexan boxes, these breathers are T off air intake snorkel. I tested with pressure washer, and never missed a beat i then was confident enough to cross creeks etc , you can tell the water was deep coz my off road trailer actually floated behind the landy, the wading plug on bell housing only really needs to be in if you are going to try and change gear when in water, as water will get on flywheel face when you depress clutch pedal and give massive clutch slip, think what your drum brakes are like after going thru water. If your bell housing is not sealed well, having the drain plug in can actually prolong slip probs as the water that gets in via other leaks wont drain out till you remove the plug.
Best advice tho is try and avoid deep water unless it cant be avoided, as they were not designed as submarines, and you need to check all fluids as soon as poss after wading , as a little water can do a lot of damage . JMHO
 
I have run my V8 thru rivers, and miles of floods in Oz . I have the head of the coil in a lexan box with silicon seals where the wires go in and out , this fixes the biggest weak point , the top of the coil. The export models sent to OZ were even worse than UK set up as the coil was mounted down low on side of radiator , at least mine (UK model) was originally mounted high on top of inside wing. I also made lexan box and mounted ign amp inside . The leads need to be in good condition, so they make good seal on plugs and distibutor cap, I also ran bead of RTV round cap joint. I drilled body of dizzy, not cap and fitted breather tube, same with both lexan boxes, these breathers are T off air intake snorkel. I tested with pressure washer, and never missed a beat i then was confident enough to cross creeks etc , you can tell the water was deep coz my off road trailer actually floated behind the landy, the wading plug on bell housing only really needs to be in if you are going to try and change gear when in water, as water will get on flywheel face when you depress clutch pedal and give massive clutch slip, think what your drum brakes are like after going thru water. If your bell housing is not sealed well, having the drain plug in can actually prolong slip probs as the water that gets in via other leaks wont drain out till you remove the plug.
Best advice tho is try and avoid deep water unless it cant be avoided, as they were not designed as submarines, and you need to check all fluids as soon as poss after wading , as a little water can do a lot of damage . JMHO

What about for an auto? it changes gear when it wants unless you want it in first all the way and then the fan is really spinning water everywhere!
 
What about for an auto? it changes gear when it wants unless you want it in first all the way and then the fan is really spinning water everywhere!

No! lock the box down then it won't change up. As for the fan, you can tie it up so it doesn't throw water everywhere but you have to rememeber to untie it after you have crossed whatever water hazard you have waded through.
 
Auto does not have a "clutch" as such so changing gear is not relevant , wading plug not really needed fme The fan is viscous drive , so will not lock up so not a problem when wading . Old bush trick drape tarp over bull bar going below front bumper so acts like a bow on boat prevents gallons of water going in thru rad , if your wave collapses when crossing due to speed change . HTSH
 
Back
Top