Warm/hot engine starting problems

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Here's a reply posting from the other side:)

Its caused by wear in the fuel pump and timing chain. you can sort it without fitting anything.all you have to do is mark the fuel injector pump and timing cover with a line scratched in to the metal(so you can see how much you have moved the pump),loosen the 2 pump mount nuts and the small bracket on the bottom of the pump then move the pump about 2mm towards the engine block then do the nuts up(you might have to use a lever to move the pump due to all the pipes fitted to it i used a small spanner). run her up to temp and she if she starts when hot. i did mine over 20,000 miles ago and a mates about 12,000 miles ago. mine i had to move the pump about 1.5mm and my mates was about 3mm. or you can buy the hot start box at £30 ish and fit it. up to you.
 
First of all check battery(It should be at least 800A CCA) and voltage loss(with simple multimeter set on VDC) between negative battery terminal and metal engine elements(valve cover for example). Anything more than 0.01V will cause problems with cranking speed. Earth straps on this model are known to be weak point.
Cheap "hot starf fix" boxes will cause premature failure of glow plugs. Hot starting fuel rate can be altered by reputable tuner.
 
Gaz5535 said:
Here's a reply posting from the other side:)

Its caused by wear in the fuel pump and timing chain. you can sort it without fitting anything.all you have to do is mark the fuel injector pump and timing cover with a line scratched in to the metal(so you can see how much you have moved the pump),loosen the 2 pump mount nuts and the small bracket on the bottom of the pump then move the pump about 2mm towards the engine block then do the nuts up(you might have to use a lever to move the pump due to all the pipes fitted to it i used a small spanner). run her up to temp and she if she starts when hot. i did mine over 20,000 miles ago and a mates about 12,000 miles ago. mine i had to move the pump about 1.5mm and my mates was about 3mm. or you can buy the hot start box at £30 ish and fit it. up to you.
Click to expand...

Talk to your mechanic. Moving that pump by tiny amounts has a BIG effect.
 
Gaz5535 said:
Here's a reply posting from the other side:)

Its caused by wear in the fuel pump and timing chain. you can sort it without fitting anything.all you have to do is mark the fuel injector pump and timing cover with a line scratched in to the metal(so you can see how much you have moved the pump),loosen the 2 pump mount nuts and the small bracket on the bottom of the pump then move the pump about 2mm towards the engine block then do the nuts up(you might have to use a lever to move the pump due to all the pipes fitted to it i used a small spanner). run her up to temp and she if she starts when hot. i did mine over 20,000 miles ago and a mates about 12,000 miles ago. mine i had to move the pump about 1.5mm and my mates was about 3mm. or you can buy the hot start box at £30 ish and fit it. up to you.
Click to expand...

But if you do a search or check on Rave you will find the PRECISE measurement to reset your pump with a DTI gauge.:)
 
dogsbody said:
I think that he would fit the criteria of "knowing what you're doing" :)
Click to expand...

Indeed, what we cannot fix between us, probably can't be fixed!
But I am quite humble about things, as there is always someone who will know something you don't, or a better way of doing things.
I enjoy fixing up old stuff, I have been through a few recessions, so it's been a case of make do and mend, I guess that is just a way of life now! Though I am really grateful for any help from the folk on the forum in keeping my Landrovers on the road. I have had two Range Rovers before this I one, a 1973 V8 that I grafted a perkins 4236 engine into, good that was change in performence! And a 1985 two door with a VM 2.4 diesel conversion that I bought new, but they were pretty basic in comparison to the 38, & it's electrics etc. I have had the old girl a year now , & as long as I can keep fixing her nice and cheaply I have no plans on getting rid of her, As you get a lot of car for your buck, £1050 to be precise, with 9 months tax and a brand new battery!
 
tomcat59alan said:
But if you do a search or check on Rave you will find the PRECISE measurement to reset your pump with a DTI gauge.:)
Click to expand...

Heed this advice, the correct way to adjust the FIP for chain stretch is covered in RAVE and requires the use of a DTI to reset the lift of the wasit inside the pump, it is done to thousandsth of an inch, not a lever with a small spanner a couple of mm to move the whole pump.....
 
My 1999 2.5 has a hot start fitted and works ok except when the ambient temperature is over 30 c and has been running hard for an hour then it will not start untill it has been left for an hour to cool down.
It has had new timing chains and the modulation is correct but the swg is 3000 instead of 1500 so when i get back to the UK i will get a fip overhaul and see if that makes any difference.
also the fuel consumption has increased so i hope that will be cured as well.
 
N2O said:
First of all check battery(It should be at least 800A CCA) and voltage loss(with simple multimeter set on VDC) between negative battery terminal and metal engine elements(valve cover for example). Anything more than 0.01V will cause problems with cranking speed. Earth straps on this model are known to be weak point.
Cheap "hot starf fix" boxes will cause premature failure of glow plugs. Hot starting fuel rate can be altered by reputable tuner.
Click to expand...

Yes, I thought that would be the case with the glow plugs, I just fitted set late last year, so don't want to be doing that again to soon!
Also a good point re the battery, it's not the biggest, but it does seem to spin it over ok. The battery box looks big enough to take a 643/644 truck battery, so maybe I will treat the old girl to one. I can get hold of one for about £40. The other thing we noticed, was that the alternator is pushing out just over 13 volts, shouldn't that be nearer 14volts?
Gaz
 
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My philosophy on this, to make it fun, is keeping things going without putting my hand to deep in my pockets. I have about 90 vehicles of one description or another, if I spend a lot on one vehicle, it would be at one of the others expenseI!
A bit like bringing a family up! :)
 
I must admit , RR.net is easier to page through, what with my 'trombone eyes' & a smart phone. I also seem to have issues with 'tapatalk' & my S5
Sometimes I really do miss a good old P.C !
 
Mine has the hot start problem. does run spot on kickdown from 30 to approx 70 brillant but when i hit 70ish she dies bogs down. she does have plenty of power upto then smooth as can be. Iv tried new fuel pipes. No air bubbles getting in or as i cam tell out I have a clear bit of line with a non return valve no diesel runs back either side of the valve. Also same with a full tank If i turn her off for 10secs fires back up mint after a minute 3-4 cranks of engine. worth a try reseting fip with a dti gauge?
 
stustrong said:
Mine has the hot start problem. does run spot on kickdown from 30 to approx 70 brillant but when i hit 70ish she dies bogs down. she does have plenty of power upto then smooth as can be. Iv tried new fuel pipes. No air bubbles getting in or as i cam tell out I have a clear bit of line with a non return valve no diesel runs back either side of the valve. Also same with a full tank If i turn her off for 10secs fires back up mint after a minute 3-4 cranks of engine. worth a try reseting fip with a dti gauge?
Click to expand...

yes to the dti, I had a Classic with a similar problem and the cause was the nr/valve in the tank vent!! After a long run the tank would vacuum, if fact I had to use an airline to pop the tank back to original size. Don't know if there is one fitted to the 38 but worth a look:)
 
tomcat59alan said:
yes to the dti, I had a Classic with a similar problem and the cause was the nr/valve in the tank vent!! After a long run the tank would vacuum, if fact I had to use an airline to pop the tank back to original size. Don't know if there is one fitted to the 38 but worth a look:)
Click to expand...

Il try reseting it with dti Some point this week after work
 
New return lines and the map/maf pipe off the inlet and psi box wer split running a dream hot starts upto temp sat for 15mins and its miles better now
 
Did the problem start suddenly? A few days ago mine started having problems when warm. Got to use throttle. HAVE TRIED SEARCHING FORUM BUT HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO FIND ANY THING. Not saying its not there. I'm just not that good with computers. Thought that if it was lifter pump, it would have started gradually. Any further input would be gratefully appreciated from those with greater experience. I know its frustrating if you are saying the same thing over and over but imagine how much better you feel when you can help a fellow owner who may not be as up on the forum layout / terms as yourselves. :cheer2::baby::smash::smash::smash:
 
jon.h said:
Did the problem start suddenly? A few days ago mine started having problems when warm. Got to use throttle. HAVE TRIED SEARCHING FORUM BUT HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO FIND ANY THING. Not saying its not there. I'm just not that good with computers. Thought that if it was lifter pump, it would have started gradually. Any further input would be gratefully appreciated from those with greater experience. I know its frustrating if you are saying the same thing over and over but imagine how much better you feel when you can help a fellow owner who may not be as up on the forum layout / terms as yourselves. :cheer2::baby::smash::smash::smash:
Click to expand...

Hello John, no, mine has been doing it since I bought it about a year ago. I replaced the fuel pump in the tank, as it was really playing up even when cold. But I sussed out that it was drawing in air when the fuel got down to just below 1/2 a tank of fuel.
Oh & by the way, I know what you mean about trawling through the forums regarding fixes, I do most of my looking on a smart phone , which is a nightmare at times!

Gaz
 
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