Wanted... freelander (no longer needed)

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I'd pick the best 2 from the same axle, put those on the front and get 2 more of those tyres to put on the back. If the best 2 aren't great, then you may as well replace all 4 with what ever brand you choose.

Before you do anything though, I'd check the colour of the IRD oil. If it is metallicy, you have problems which will mean a probable replacement IRD. If that is a non-starter, then you'll be wanting to run it as 2WD (by removing the props) and swapping tyres out will basically be a pointless waste of money.

Assuming the IRD is good. You then want to do the One Wheel Up Test to determine the condition of the VCU. If the timings (with a 5kg weight on a 1.2m bar) are coming in over a minute, whip the props off so as not to damage anything until you've got the replacement VCU. You should whip the props off till the tyres are sorted as well.

Given the coolant leak, you may want to prioritise things - once again to make sure you don't spend any wasted money.

All this though does no identify what is causing the clicking you are getting when reversing on lock. That obviously can have an impact on what you do. This clicking may be a (diff or VCU) support/mount but I'm thinking it isn't. I'm thinking its the IRD or rear diff. Investigation is needed.
 
Turboman said:
Lighten up a bit. You have had plenty of help, and will get more.

When you have been on the forum a bit longer, you will realise that there is a friendly rivalry between the enthusiasts of different Landrover vehicles.
Click to expand...
I have had plenty of help and I am of course grateful, and Im sorry but ever since ive been on here Ive been ripped by certain members (usually the same idiots), who have nothing better to do that
Turboman said:
Lighten up a bit. You have had plenty of help, and will get more.

When you have been on the forum a bit longer, you will realise that there is a friendly rivalry between the enthusiasts of different Landrover vehicles.
Click to expand...
yep
 
Land_girl said:
I have had plenty of help and I am of course grateful, and Im sorry but ever since ive been on here Ive been ripped by certain members (usually the same idiots), who have nothing better to do that

yep
Click to expand...

It wasn't good enough to be quoted twice! :D

I haven't seen that you have had anyone rib you more than any other noob. And the people who have been taking the pee have also been helping you.

BTW, I suggest you don't swear outside AG, it upsets the boss, and the sponsors.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I'd pick the best 2 from the same axle, put those on the front and get 2 more of those tyres to put on the back. If the best 2 aren't great, then you may as well replace all 4 with what ever brand you choose.

Before you do anything though, I'd check the colour of the IRD oil. If it is metallicy, you have problems which will mean a probable replacement IRD. If that is a non-starter, then you'll be wanting to run it as 2WD (by removing the props) and swapping tyres out will basically be a pointless waste of money.

Assuming the IRD is good. You then want to do the One Wheel Up Test to determine the condition of the VCU. If the timings (with a 5kg weight on a 1.2m bar) are coming in over a minute, whip the props off so as not to damage anything until you've got the replacement VCU. You should whip the props off till the tyres are sorted as well.

Given the coolant leak, you may want to prioritise things - once again to make sure you don't spend any wasted money.

All this though does no identify what is causing the clicking you are getting when reversing on lock. That obviously can have an impact on what you do. This clicking may be a (diff or VCU) support/mount but I'm thinking it isn't. I'm thinking its the IRD or rear diff. Investigation is needed.
Click to expand...

I was planning to replace all 4 anyway after reading (your post) re 'new owners must do' post and do the VCU 'test'. I wont actually be using the car until its sorted. As said, ill probably get it to the local LR specialist and see if they can work out where the 'noise' is coming from and the best (cheapest) course of action.
 
Turboman said:
It wasn't good enough to be quoted twice! :D

I haven't seen that you have had anyone rib you more than any other noob. And the people who have been taking the pee have also been helping you.

BTW, I suggest you don't swear outside AG, it upsets the boss, and the sponsors.
Click to expand...

Apologies.
 
guineafowl21 said:
I think he means you could have got a car without obvious faults for the money.
Click to expand...
Absolutely. The OP could have had my 2005 TD4 SE auto for £2.5K and she's mechanically perfect. Although I'm not actually selling it yet, but the OP could have waited and found a car like mine for similar money.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I'm not sure on the availability of cradles or their cost, but you have to drop the rear subframe to fit them
Click to expand...
A decent tank cradle is about £70 delivered in the UK.
GrumpyGel said:
they don't just unbolt and a new one bolt on. There are threads describing it on here
Click to expand...
The cradle is a bolt on job, with just 4 bolts.
Sadly there's a **** load of other stuff to unbolt and reattach once the cradle is replaced. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
A decent tank cradle is about £70 delivered in the UK.

The cradle is a bolt on job, with just 4 bolts.
Sadly there's a **** load of other stuff to unbolt and reattach once the cradle is replaced. ;)
Click to expand...
Great thanks. ill look into it.
 
Land_girl said:
I was planning to replace all 4 anyway after reading (your post) re 'new owners must do' post and do the VCU 'test'. I wont actually be using the car until its sorted. As said, ill probably get it to the local LR specialist and see if they can work out where the 'noise' is coming from and the best (cheapest) course of action.
Click to expand...
Just make sure they know Freelanders, a lot of Land Rover specialists haven't got the knowledge to diagnose Freelander faults properly.
 
Land_girl said:
and its hoped that those of you in that instance are graceful enough not to just take the p*ss and help those less knowledgable. ;)
Click to expand...

I haven't read the rest of the disaster movie script yet , so someone may have already said the following.
No-one on here is obligated to help you, we/ they help because they want to. The price of that help is not the hundreds/thousands of pounds you will pay at a dealer's or a specialist indy. It's not even the hundreds of pounds for a bodge job by your pal with his own garage, or even the hundreds of pounds you will spend on your own tools and learning by your own mistakes.
The price for the expansive, collective knowledge and if necessary assistance, from those on LandyZone is quite cheap considering what you get. It is quite simply to suck up a little p*ss taking and a whole load of banter, from now until eternity, or your gaylander falls apart and you see sense and buy a Volvo.
The flip side is, if after copious amounts of information, from those who know, you ignore said advice and then get precious about a little banter, the collective will turn like a wounded animal and you will be hard pushed to ever get sensible advice again.
Personally, theses guys and girls have saved me thousands and saved the Golden Girl from eternal damnation several times. So I'd say a bit of p*ss taking is a fair price.

Hope the above helps you see things as they are.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I'd pick the best 2 from the same axle, put those on the front and get 2 more of those tyres to put on the back. If the best 2 aren't great, then you may as well replace all 4 with what ever brand you choose.
Click to expand...

If the 2 on the front are matching and the 2 on the rear are matching. Then put the matching tyres on the same sides, with the least worn on the rear. This will, or has the best chance of equalizing the rolling radius of the tyres on the vehicle. It's not ideal, but will get OP out of a hole for a while.
 
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