P38A Wanted becm unlocked key ecu 2.5dse

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P38dse1998

Member
Posts
77
Location
Dalgety bay, Scotland, uk
Hi I'm in need of a complete becm ecu lock keys kit for a 2000 range rover dse.
The has been rset previously at a cost £60 and started fine then back to no start. Possibly rf interference. Or other gremlins. Which is why I need the kit.
From my little research I would require the highline becm. Of a diesel.
Also on the lookout for a diagnostic solution, handheld or DIY laptop software. I have eas kicker on a laptop and successfully used to adjust suspension heights via special cable.
 
Hi I'm in need of a complete becm ecu lock keys kit for a 2000 range rover dse.
The has been rset previously at a cost £60 and started fine then back to no start. Possibly rf interference. Or other gremlins. Which is why I need the kit.
From my little research I would require the highline becm. Of a diesel.
Also on the lookout for a diagnostic solution, handheld or DIY laptop software. I have eas kicker on a laptop and successfully used to adjust suspension heights via special cable.

Are you sure? RF interference can be solved with @martyuk 's fix for about £80. BECM can be fixed by Rick-the-pick (Callrova).

Could be microswitches are acting up? New BECM won't fix that. Again, Marty does refurbished lock actuators.

Or is it the key? @MrSporty is the key guru.

I'd seriously be trying to fix the issue before chucking another BECM at it. They do go wrong but it is rare.

Diagnostics. Nanocom is best value for money. Not the cheapest but most comprehensive for the money. Hawkeye and Lynx are other common choices but Hawkeye needs extra adapters for some functions and don't think it is as comprehensive. Not sure what the Lynx does. If money is no object then you might consider the Faultmate.
 
Thankyou for your replies.

I honestly do not know what the problem is. Just that the car losing sync and can be resynced. I have a 98 dse and I'm planning on swapping rf receiver. Putting fully charged battery in car. And checking as many switches, fuse box, keyfob batteries etc.

The car was just purchased as non runner due to sync issues. I paid £200. At the least I can swap over the alloys and scrap the car. But the body is far cleaner than mines.

Interested in lrzip??? Also buying the whole kit ie becm ecu keys door locks is more cost effective. Although I'd need to buy microswitches of needed.

I've also found a hawkeye on gumtree but it's for discovery. I'm sure I read new models can be activated at cost. Quite annoying being restricted with diagnostics. ☹️
 
r.f. receiver is probably unplugged . check the receiver also what sticker color is it & if you can take top off it ,photo it & compare with the 3 photos on the tech site wich will tell you if its original -interim- or upgrade .???? also how many keys you have and what battery is on it , it needs a 1000ca heavy duty , puts out 14.2 volts , p38s are notorious for needing big batterys , have you had p38s before ??? don't think u need to thru the new becm -ecu- key -line just yet !!! get it turning over and starting first , did you drive it home or trailer it from scrapyard ??? photos would be nice too !!!! finally , on diagnostics ??? don't know where your getting your info from ??? re lynk-hawkeye etc etc , nanocom is the way !!!!! thats if you want to buy diagnostics !!!!! most cost effective unit available (not the cheapest but in the long run ) it will be !!!!! so get new battery on it first or if suitable use the one it came with and fully charge it ,then go from there .it sounds as though its probably relatively an easy fix but theres a lot of them in scrapyards to put it simply were scrapped cos they had lost the sync !!!! and the owners had no idea what to do ,,believe me the scrapyards all over uk are testament to that ,, so battery on & see what u find & let us know ...theres plenty of well experienced chaps who will help on here , also check international rescue map for someone up there with nano to help , for tea & biscuits !!!! but as your in Scotland whisky & cake would be the order of the day ,,,good luck mozz
 
r.f. receiver is probably unplugged . check the receiver also what sticker color is it & if you can take top off it ,photo it & compare with the 3 photos on the tech site wich will tell you if its original -interim- or upgrade .???? also how many keys you have and what battery is on it , it needs a 1000ca heavy duty , puts out 14.2 volts , p38s are notorious for needing big batterys , have you had p38s before ??? don't think u need to thru the new becm -ecu- key -line just yet !!! get it turning over and starting first , did you drive it home or trailer it from scrapyard ??? photos would be nice too !!!! finally , on diagnostics ??? don't know where your getting your info from ??? re lynk-hawkeye etc etc , nanocom is the way !!!!! thats if you want to buy diagnostics !!!!! most cost effective unit available (not the cheapest but in the long run ) it will be !!!!! so get new battery on it first or if suitable use the one it came with and fully charge it ,then go from there .it sounds as though its probably relatively an easy fix but theres a lot of them in scrapyards to put it simply were scrapped cos they had lost the sync !!!! and the owners had no idea what to do ,,believe me the scrapyards all over uk are testament to that ,, so battery on & see what u find & let us know ...theres plenty of well experienced chaps who will help on here , also check international rescue map for someone up there with nano to help , for tea & biscuits !!!! but as your in Scotland whisky & cake would be the order of the day ,,,good luck mozz
I've owned my current p38 dse for nearly 2 years. Repaired and serviced all my cars from saab 9000s, bmws, vauchall, volvo, jaguar.
This is my first 4x4.
 
Not many p38 in the scrap yards around me and when they do come in, they are stripped quickly. I buy most parts online, through ebay or direct.
I trailered the car from private seller to my company private road. When I get the time I'm going to swap over the battery from my dse onto the new one. Check rf receiver, pos swap.
Check drivers door lock mechanism. Swap if needed.
 
Is the standard regulator not up to the job for a 1000cca 120Ah?

You did mention to me some time ago my then new battery would not charge completely or something?

With a standard lead antimony battery maybe. But on a calcium antimony battery maybe not and on a full calcium battery definitely not. The battery would never be fully charged and would sulphate up destroying it. You need at least 14.7 on a full calcium battery to charge it.
 
Is the standard regulator not up to the job for a 1000cca 120Ah?

You did mention to me some time ago my then new battery would not charge completely or something?
As Wammers has said, 13.8 volts will not fully charge any modern lead calcium battery. 14.7 is correct but a minimum on 14.3 will suffice unless the car is used always for short runs.
 
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