Remove the water hose from the pump and with the aid of a mirror and touch and have a look, touch the impeller with a small screw driver.
The one in my pic is not OE,
Think so it’s the KS.
300 or 200TDI but not OE if the fan bolts on.
120000rpm, I very much doubt thatNo. You pull it out and have a look. Not hard or take too long. Viscous & belt off and you unbolt the whole pump, have to burp system and top up you will lose lil bit. New o ring on refit. Bit of card or something to protect your rad as it’s tight in there and easy to bump.
Try look through receipts if you have them.
There’s metal coloured plastic ones and shyte tin like crap ones with funny edges to be weary of. Il get you the part number if you need proper one
If yours has been renewed with new plastic unit that’s fine, some say they work better.
after 120,000 miles your on borrowed time til it breaks. Mine went at about 128,000m
The old brittle plastic goes to bits and you have to get every piece out, since the pump is spinning about 120,000 rpm the bearings go and it ejects out the front through the rad taking the viscous with it
Good thing about metal pump is only £40 and if it does go (nobody’s has) no shrapnel lost inside the block to doom your engine forever.
See some people now and again with P38 diesels that have strange incurable cooling issues ; now you know why
.
Bit of exaggerated tongue
Can’t say I’ve measured one
They spin a lot lot faster than engine rpm when they go they make a bang like an explosion. I can be positive of that. Destroyed the rad.
As said the viscous should never rev at more than 80% of engine RPM even when fully engaged. At 4000 RPM engine revs that is 3200 viscous RPM. The water pump spins around 1.44 times faster than the engine so a seized viscous will be doing 5760 RPM at 4000 RPM engine revs. The outcome can only be disaster.
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