Viscous fan test

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Additionaly from what's in RAVE, undo partially the bleed screw as to let the fluid come out a bit then keep it rev'd to 2000rpm untill no bubbles are coming out there

as about the 105*C towing uphill with heavy throttle is normal especially if you have non-stock aluminium radiator
 
Additionaly from what's in RAVE, undo partially the bleed screw as to let the fluid come out a bit then keep it rev'd to 2000rpm untill no bubbles are coming out there

as about the 105*C towing uphill with heavy throttle is normal especially if you have non-stock aluminium radiator

Great thank you. Yes I have a Nissens radiator (similar to or the same as this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...885039?hash=item41fdf9dd6f:g:6mUAAOSw5FxcnfGE) . I looked at the aluminium one you have but the seller didn't come back to me as to whether or not they sold something to suit a D2 with AC (edit: they just confirmed they only do the Defender one)
 
Additionaly from what's in RAVE, undo partially the bleed screw as to let the fluid come out a bit then keep it rev'd to 2000rpm untill no bubbles are coming out there

Still no joy! Re-bled it yesterday and it was fine all day, started up this morning and loads of gurgling/waterfall noise from the dash again. I'm lost as to what else I can try. No leaks, no coolant loss
 
There are cases when no stationary bleeding procedure can push out all the air from the heater matrix so go for a ride with the tank's cap removed untill it reaches the operating temp then top up if needed and tighten it back... if still no joy, clamp the matrix's outlet hose , remove it and fill with the tank raised untill coolant comes out from the matrix pipe... btw. did you manage to raise tha tank while filling it cos if not we are speaking in vain... if nothing of these helps then IMO there is a crack in the head, mine did such gurgling when there was a crack in the first inlet port, the only other thing was that i had to top up the tank once a month or so cos the level dropped very slowly and the coolant ended up in the combustion chamber.
 
There are cases when no stationary bleeding procedure can push out all the air from the heater matrix so go for a ride with the tank's cap removed untill it reaches the operating temp then top up if needed and tighten it back... if still no joy, clamp the matrix's outlet hose , remove it and fill with the tank raised untill coolant comes out from the matrix pipe... btw. did you manage to raise tha tank while filling it cos if not we are speaking in vain... if nothing of these helps then IMO there is a crack in the head, mine did such gurgling when there was a crack in the first inlet port, the only other thing was that i had to top up the tank once a month or so cos the level dropped very slowly and the coolant ended up in the combustion chamber.

Finally we have managed to cure the gurgling behind the dash. We initially used some sort of vacuum tool but some gurgling remained. Next to the bleed screw is a small pipe that goes to the head - this is higher than the bleed screw and I believe where the air was coming from. Pushed that hose down out the way to bleed and then put it back (don't want it rubbing on the AC compressor all the time) and it seems fine for all this week so far

Tom have you changed the water pump since you have owned it?

Yes I have.
 
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